N stub axle question

[KOBI-Dave]

Hi guys, how do I put photos up on here?
I want to show my stub axle and wheels, as I don't know which bit is wrong! I think the stubs may be off something else, but just don't know

[Billy26F5]

Try this: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5024&p=53955#p53955.
If it looks similar to a Major it should be ok, but we'll need the pics before being sure about it.
Sandy

[KOBI-Dave]

Dear Lord, that seems complicated

[KOBI-Dave]

Without trying to make my brain hurt, I can tell you that the length of my stub axle from the back of the inner bearing to the end of the thread is about 4 1/2 inches.
What is the measurement supposed to be?
What could my stub axles be off if that's wrong?
My iron wheels are 5 spoke and look like all the ones I've seen pictures of......

[Billy26F5]

Dear Lord, that seems complicated

I was only referring to the last post about pics, I don't know if the earlier one still works or not. It is quite easy, but I don't know if you're able to do computer stuff (I'm not!).
4 1/2" sounds reasonable but I would need a pic to see better, I can't really think you'd have the wrong spindles but I might be wrong. I'll need to look at our ones but they're pretty difficult to get to so it might take a bit for me to reply, but the stub axle part of the spindle on the N is very similar on a Major, but not quite the same (this comes from 1946 when the E27N spindles were changed, with a new inner bearing cone). Hopefully someone has N spindles that they can measure.
Sandy

[KOBI-Dave]

Thanks Sandy , that will be a big help.
My front wheels that I bought are iron 5 spoke. They look the same as every other iron wheeled Fordson wheel I've found on the net. The distance between the bearings is much greater than what would fit on my stubs.
I measured the bearing outer sizes that would fit the wheels, and it is 90mm approx, and 72mm approx from memory. It seemed correct when I researched it.
It's possible that my stubs are from a car I suppose, but when someone gives me a clue, then I'll know

[Billy26F5]

Those bearing sizes sound about right, be aware they might well be Imperial, which will make them more difficult to find and more expensive. What is the distance between the bearing cup lips on the wheels? That should be the same as a Major. I'll try to measure our spindles anyway, but the inner cone ID will not necessarily be right. I would be surprised if someone has managed to fit a car spindle that has survived the rough conditions.
Sandy

[KOBI-Dave]

Yes, they will be imperial, its about 90.2mm I think on one of them.
I'll measure the wheels tomorrow.
I was thinking the whole stub axle could be Ford Pilot or the likes of. Or even Ford truck. Not just the spindles

[KOBI-Dave]

Sandy, I have the answer.
I put up pictures on the farming forum, and, in amongst a idiot who clearly just liked spouting off, a guy put up a picture of his stub axle which is 1 1/2" longer than mine. So case closed, I'm looking for stub axles. Many thanks for you efforts.

[Billy26F5]

I've seen your post there Dave, and I instantly saw there was something wrong. I think someone cut those down (they maybe wore out the bearings and didn't replace them but kept tightening the nut, then cutting them down to get extra adjustment), as the inner part looks ok. The outer bearing I would say is a bit bigger too (a Major one will do fine there) I'll post measurements soon but not quite yet. I recommend you get the tie rod pin a grease nipple soon, as otherwise you might find the pin loosening in the tie rod and needing a new tie rod and pin (the pin is the same as the Major, and should be a press fit in the tie rod with plenty of grease in the spindle arm bush for avoiding this problem once in use). You seem to have the later hub caps (E27N-1128 instead of N-1131), the early spenner will fit them but not very well, if you want to keep the later caps and don't have a spanner for them yet I recommend you aim for the later type (not very common but much more suitable for these caps). If however you want everything original you'll need the earlier caps, also make sure your wheels are not the later ones with mud rings. All of these are interchangeable, but the spanners are less interchangeable (although it took Ford over 10 years to realize they needed a new spanner for the new caps).
Very nice ruler you have there!
Sandy

[KOBI-Dave]

At this moment in time, my N is only good for yard art. I would put photos up, but it's much too complicated for me, I'm more analogue than digital.
If you're interested, I'm also into hotrods, and one of my threads on the Rods and Sods site is about my N.
It's in the 'garage' section, and is called ' 1930s Ford, my new ride'.
You'll get the idea. I like the iron wheels look, and I've now got iron rears on it, I'd like to get the iron fronts on, and from there a steering overhaul, and then it'll need an engine as it really is beyond help.
I'm thinking diesel, but it will depend what comes my way in the bargain basement price range!

[Billy26F5]

I've just seen that, I now see what you've got! The easiest engine swap is to fit an E27N version of the engine you have, as that's a straight swap, there's no complicated bits to add and it can use a starter (but few were sold in the earlier days). I also see the wheels there, I'm pretty surprised anyone ever thought of doing that given how easy it is to get the very similar Major or E27N wheels. The steel wheels suit the N very well, but if you keep the industrial ones the electrics will stand out less, as the industrial tractors had lights. If you do want a diesel engine in there be prepared to have problems fitting it. An ex-E27N P6 is the easiest one to fit, but a Major is best for reliability and simple servicing and overhaul. There are a few N's with Major engines in, but the fitting could be more difficult. I don't know a lot about the L4, but it's pretty rare in both E27N's and Major's.
Sandy

[Emiel]

An e27n engine is not a direct fit. The clutch is different and therefore the crankshaft. This requires the n crankshaft in a side valve engine. Making a P6 to fit will be a good way of burning value. The engine in e27n specs is worth more then the tractor after the engine change.

[KOBI-Dave]

The engine that will go in will be the cheapest runner that comes my way. E27N is always going to be expensive. I've no mag, carb or manifold, so would need a runner to start with. Major engines can be reasonable, I've considered air cooled too, just to be different .
To put this into prospective, buying everything I've got, including the scrap tractor I started with, it has cost about 450 quid, so if I can get it running as a diesel and keep it to less than a grand, I'll be happy with that

[Billy26F5]

I'm afraid runners tend to be pretty pricey, but getting a Major to run is very easy. I didn't know that the E27N crankshaft was different, I thought the later clutch would have just had a new flywheel to go with it. A P6, although easy to fit will be pretty pricey too, but it should at least be more appropriate for the age of the N. Having said that, getting a P6 running is much harder than a Major, but it does sound good too! The one thing that will cost lots to fix is the injection system, so you probably want to find a good pump and set of injectors (but they're likely pricey too).
Sandy

[KOBI-Dave]

There's no hurry, I'll sit back and wait for something I like, at a price I like.

[KOBI-Dave]

Just as a reply to your post Sandy, I was at my neighbours place today, we were talking about my N. I was on about engine choices as my engine is goosed. He told me that last Monday, a trawler got scrapped locally. Along with the main boat engine, two Fordson 4D engines went to the scrappy, and even worse, not too long ago, a P6 went to the same scrappy as noone wanted it.
You can be sure that he knows I want an engine now

[Billy26F5]

What a pity those are gone. More will turn up for sure though.
Sandy

[Hair Bear]

I know where there is a Perkins V8 in a shed, would you like me to enquire?

[KOBI-Dave]

No thanks, I wouldn't build anything like that.

Something that will 'blend in' and look almost like it should have been like that from new is the look I want.
I do think that 4D is the best, and cheapest option .
Anything Perkins seems to bring decent money, and I think going too modern with the 6.whatever or 4.whatever is madness. You may as well fit a Mitsubishi engine if you're having something made in 1995.....

It's just my view, and anyone else can do what they like