my major has a 6 pot from a dock crane, but is basically a d series engine 108bhp, i think its the 380. ( very similar to 1124 county engine)
question is what temp should engine run at, i know a major is 50-60c but my engine goes to 70c just on a 1 mile run with no load do these engines run at hotter temps?
There is curculation so water pump is working.
i am just worried of over heating and damaging engine
6 cylinder temps
Soumds like you have a 2703E or a 2704E which were engines prior to the 2713, 2714 and 2715 range of industrial motors. They were used in combines etc up to the intrpduction of the TW based units.
It is possible that the Major radiator is not big enough for these engines depending which one you are using. The Super Major one with less tubes might be a better bet.
A dockyard crane might have a "pusher" fan rather than a "sucker" and this may lead to a hotter running engine.
Unless the water was pouring out of the top of the radiator and down the overflow I would not be too worried. Brown froth is not a bad sign, I would be more concerned if it was oily.
Keep a check on the oil and in the oil filler cap and breather for water vapour but otherwise I would keep her going. They did tend to run hot on a combine with a radiator nearly twice the size of a tractor.
It is possible that the Major radiator is not big enough for these engines depending which one you are using. The Super Major one with less tubes might be a better bet.
A dockyard crane might have a "pusher" fan rather than a "sucker" and this may lead to a hotter running engine.
Unless the water was pouring out of the top of the radiator and down the overflow I would not be too worried. Brown froth is not a bad sign, I would be more concerned if it was oily.
Keep a check on the oil and in the oil filler cap and breather for water vapour but otherwise I would keep her going. They did tend to run hot on a combine with a radiator nearly twice the size of a tractor.
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Brian
Brian
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Hi,
I'm no expert (ex = hasbeen spurt = drip under pressure)
but, as no one else has answered yet, here's a bit of logic.
Temp:
You say you know that a major is 50 to 60. Well that's only 4 cylinder and about 40 hp so, logically, 2 more cylinders and 2.5 times the hp seems reasonable for an extra 10 degrees, particularily if it's the same rad etc used for the 4 cylinder.
Discoloured Froth:
Don't panic yet.
My major had the same problem when I got it. I thought the same as you, head gasket.
Took the head off, gasket was perfect, no tracks from leaks.
Undid all of the hoses and drain taps.
Gave engine and radiator a good flush out with a hose.
Then bought some 'rad flush', gave it 2 good treatments, froth gone. It was obviously a build up of muck in the system.
If that's what you've got, it would also contribute to temperature, due to restricted flow.
Of course, it could be more ominous, but I'd try the simple things first.
Mike
Footnote:
Well, there you go. Brian was typing at the same time as me, but finished quicker, as usual
I'm no expert (ex = hasbeen spurt = drip under pressure)

Temp:
You say you know that a major is 50 to 60. Well that's only 4 cylinder and about 40 hp so, logically, 2 more cylinders and 2.5 times the hp seems reasonable for an extra 10 degrees, particularily if it's the same rad etc used for the 4 cylinder.
Discoloured Froth:
Don't panic yet.
My major had the same problem when I got it. I thought the same as you, head gasket.
Took the head off, gasket was perfect, no tracks from leaks.
Undid all of the hoses and drain taps.
Gave engine and radiator a good flush out with a hose.
Then bought some 'rad flush', gave it 2 good treatments, froth gone. It was obviously a build up of muck in the system.
If that's what you've got, it would also contribute to temperature, due to restricted flow.
Of course, it could be more ominous, but I'd try the simple things first.
Mike
Footnote:
Well, there you go. Brian was typing at the same time as me, but finished quicker, as usual
