E1A Hydraulic Setup

[Stu_Fletch]

Hello all does anybody know the correct Max PSI that a Diesel Major should be set to? I want to get mine all set up and find the leak that stops the hydraulics lowering on their own... (already changed the piston seal) Also does anybody know where you can get a decent clear copy of the service manual from... I'm more than happy to pay for it

Thanks Again

[Brian]

There are really only two places that give problems, the piston seal and the unload valve. I had a piston seal made for Henrietta a few years ago now and it is a special size not a standard one so do not know what the "land of nearly right" are producing and the quality.

The unload valve may be a big problem as the seat is part of the valve chest and the valve itself could be impossible to find now, you may have to get a whole chest from a scrap yard or breaker. Malcolm Hipperson comes to mind locally.

Pressure is 2200 psi.

[henk]

I've done a lot of work on both items and still the arms drop slowly. I made a bar under the arms and into my selfmade drawbar that supports the plough when driving on the road and a chain on my furltilizer spreader.

[Brian]

Here is the page on unload valves.

I put a new piston seal and "O" ring in mine about 5 years ago and she holds up without dropping with no problems at all even with the plough on the back.

[Stu_Fletch]

Thanks for both your replies Henk and Brian, I replaced my piston seal even though it didn't seem to bad and cleaned up the cylinder again not sure that was the fault , the o-ring you mentioned Brian is that the large one on the outer of the cylinder against the top cover? Hopefully i'll get a chance to shim my relief valve up again and try and lap it in a little against it's seat. it takes about 5mins for my hydraulics to drop from top to bottom with cold oil - about 2mins operating temperature Is the pump in the NP Major uprated or did they just increase the relief pressure to 2450psi?

[Brian]

If she is dropping that fast with a new piston seal there is a pretty big leak somewhere. The "O" ring does go between the cylinder and the valve chest, as you have found out, the cylinder is not part of the chest. It is possible that the cylinder itself is cracked or has a pinhole in it, they get pretty rusty from condensation on the outside.

The other area is, do you still have a ball in the unload valve? (If your unload valve is of that type).

Any chance of getting another valve chest to try on?

[Stu_Fletch]

The new o-ring from the land of the nearly right was unfortunately.... you guessed in not quite right.... too thin so the old one went back in but it could possibly be leaking there. as it wasn't perfect, I was actually quite impressed with the cylinder and it's conditions so I don't think the fault lies there, yes my unload valve looks like the 1st one of the 3 although the part it calls an adjuster I don't remember seeing unless it's not actually an adjuster. Is it worth doing this mod https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVOl9m-6vBI ? Am I likely to gain much from it?

Thanks again

[witty73]

Hi there, it seems we have the same trouble, although mine isnt settling as quickly as yours. I watched the video, and Im not quite followng what the process is good for. Is it supposed to increase oil flow to speed up the hydraulics?

[Stu_Fletch]

I think the idea is so the unload valve resets without having to reset the lift lower lever to neutral to start to lift again. For example your using a loader to muck out a shed, drive into the muck and try to lift but it hasn't got enough power to tear out the manure so you can back out a little until it's capable of lifting it without having to reset the lift lower lever.

Cheers