Rebuilding a fuel injection pump

[Fordson 60]

The inverter I am using can indeed display rpm but there is a reduction in the pullys so then i would need to calculate again.
I found an old counter in a box wired it up with a turc sensor and now i was ready for counting revs.
The book says it should be running at 200 rpm but the motor did not agree.
So ended up at setting the inverter at 12hz the lowest it would go and still have torque to pull the pump.
Pump was running 228rpm close enouf in my opinion.

The counter with sensor



Then i created a "specialised" tool to keep the rack in position



I spend about 1 hour getting al four injectors to give the same amount of fuel.
first selected 4 jars that would show the same level with a same amount of fuel.
Then setting the rack a few times.
after i was happy with the results i repeated it at diverent rpm and diverent positions of the rack.

Result


So the rack is set.
At least in my opinion.
Now for the 12cc at 200 rpm and 600 injections.
At this point I discovered it was 200 injections at 600 rpms.
So the low rpm problem I had was not a real problem just having the wrong values in my head
The tip of the medical syringe was in my mind this morning so I went to the laboratory at work and found testtubes with a scale so I borowed 1of them.
I set it a bit over the value quoted in the book I like a bit of black smoke

Next i fitted a new membrame and some other parts so i believe the pump is ready to go.




Only 1 thing that did suprise me after about 10 minutes of running the injectors put pinholes in the rubber hose it is 3mm wall hose............
So watever you do never ever think about touching a running injector.


Ronald

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[oehrick]

You have made fast progress Ronald

Graduated test tubes were a very useful 'borrow' and I had missed the pulley ratio in your drive chain but the separate sensor has given you a close result - I will leave it to those who have actually calibrated these devices 'by the book' to comment on the small deviations you have noted and if these are likely to have any affect on the operation of the tractor - when you read about some of the things people do to boost the power of an engine there may be more room to modify settings than the original makers manualS suggest

As for the perforated rubber hose, it comes as no surprise, having seen the effect of tiny masses of water at very high pressures cutting frozen food or wood or other things much more resilient than human flesh, you can see why there has been concern regarding safety, it doesn't have to be an 'engineered' injector, a random corrosion pinhole or fatigue crack in pipework etc can easily produce a similar jet anywhere between pump and injector !

PEOPLE FOLLOWING THIS THREAD WHO HAVE LITTLE OR NO PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE OF THIS SORT OF HIGH PRESSURE EQUIPMENT BE WARNED, A JET OF DIESEL PENETRATING THE SKIN MAY RESULT IN BLINDNESS LIMB AMPUTATION OR DEATH

[Fordson 60]

Nearby is a jet cutting shop where if been once in a while they cut 200mm stainless steel with a water jet. Only catch is there is an abrasive put in the water so its realy sanding away the material but with very high presision.
Its still impressing to see the water jet cut thick steel plate.

I know a jet is very powerfulle butt didnt expect it would stay a jet for long just become mist realy fast and lose mass to penetrate the hose.

I also heard of storys from people getting blood posining from leaking hydraulik lines.
Just keep your atention to what your are working with and keep in mind what the risks involved are then you should be alright.

Same thing about people using steel wire brush on a angle grinder without safety glasses I cant stand looking at it.
I had have wire from the brush penatrate my coverall and jeans to leave a red leak in my leg.
Imagine wath would happen with your eye

Backt to the pump....
In my opinion the 90 degree increment between plungers is important.
The timing mark of nr1 cilinder on the coupling is important.
And all plunger delivering the same amount of fuel is important.
The amount of fuel deliverd is going to be alright if its in the neigberhood of what is specified.
Less fuel less horses to much fuel black smoke and soot building up.
People are always messing around with the fuel screw anyway

The pump in his naturall habitat


And the clean crime scene always a good moment when tools are cleaned up and put in the toolbox


No i just have to figure out a way to get the beast back in the tractor because i stript the engine in frame but now rebuild it in my shed it a lot heavier

Join it again with the rebuild backend. Alle bearings gaskets seals some gears the internal gearbox casting rebuild steering box etcetcetc been replaced its like brandnew.

When she runs and drives i will put a clip on youtube and putt a link in this topic of the running engine

[oehrick]

Its good to see the saboteur has not left a clog in the sump and cleared the evidence from the bench

For thicker or heat hardening steels water jet cutting (with sand !) gives a wonderful result compared to laser, it is amazing just how far a water (and no sand) jet can penetrate without being deflected by density variations in the substance and so fast - the downside is the water has to be clean, even stray bacteria can clog a nozzle so filters have to be perfect.

The tractor is coming on well Ronald we look forward to seeing a video

[henk]

This is the live!!!!!!
Looking at your results with a Duke John

[Fordson 60]

And she runs!!
The video

https://youtu.be/iBAaT5iYx1A

She started up easy and runs fine I think.
But now the radiator is leaking so up to the new job.

Ronald

[oehrick]

amazing how much noise is generated by the pump compared to the combustion !

[Fordson 60]

You should hear it without exhaust!
The pump coupling is making the noise.
I made the mistake to put the old coupling part on the pump becouse the new part had the wrong keyway should have made the new part to fit the pump...
Maybe some day I feel like fitting the new part and the noise wil be gone for a wile.

For now I am waiting for a new radiator on the old one the material is to bad to solder.

Ronald

[henk]

I think the noise is characteristic for this model.
Someone who use to ride Fordson Majors told me one day that’s a bad sound, your engine is in bad shape. He was used to the sound of the silent coupling. He would not believe me when I told him it should sound this way.

[oehrick]

I didn't know there was a silent coupling Henk - but you are right, there is nothing that sounds quite like these engines, never thought of it before but do the Supers with the Minimec pump sound the same ??

[AdrianNPMajor]

Pretty much.
Best, Adrian.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KesPTwNJiHo

[henk]

Old style

The original part is made of pertinax or hard paper. It is pressed paper with a compound. It's very hard and thats what make the noise. When you cut it it smells like hell.



Silent style

[oehrick]

Thanks Henk / Adrian, the original type joiner is pretty hard as it is bonded with a Bakelite or similar thermosetting phenol based resin - generic name is SRBP or SRBF (synthetic resin bonded paper / fabric) and made in the UK as 'Tufnol' http://ahistoryoftufnol.org/earlydevelopment/index.html with a variety of paper or woven cloth fillers (the different varieties were named such as Carp, Perch, Vole, Whale or Heron brand but have now mainly been 'standardised') - I'm not sure if this was originally developed in the UK US or Germany as they had a very early start on the plastics too, but it is wonderfull stuff, particularly for cutting gears from or making plain bearings, even run dry it has an amazing life if it doesn't get too hot.

I presume the noise is the ramping up of load until the injector fires when the sudden load loss allows the coupling to flick forward slapping the flat surfaces together, followed by the reverse as the next cam picks up its load - I bet reprofiling the cams so that there is more of a continuous loading would quieten this down a lot.

Incidentally, they are known in the UK as an 'Oldhams Coupling', originating in Ireland https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Oldham_(engineer) and not as many people think in Oldham, centre of the UK Textile Machinery Industry - this fact in pre internet days won me quite a few pints

Is the quiet coupling a soft element ?? if so do you have to advance the no load timing to get the pump timed correctly under load (i.e. does the 'star' compress) or is it a similar hard coupling 'star' but the geometry of the coupling halves and star faces remove any clearance for the backlash / slap to occur ?

BTW Tufnol is not nice to lathe or milling cutters, for something which has no obvious abrasive in it, it doesn't half take the edge of them

[AdrianNPMajor]

Rick, great explanation of why the coupling clatters.
Thanks for illuminating the matter.
Best, Adrian.

[oehrick]

It was more trying to 'stick a pin in' it rather than an explanation Adrian, but I'm glad you agree. Strange how after a lifetime of knowing where it comes from and accepting the sound as normal, next time I start the old girl I shall know why

I'm a great supporter of Tufnol and always grab a chunk if I see it going cheap (the cloth bonded, I don't rate the paper bonded so highly but it has its place). I have made a couple of Oldhams coupling elements (but not for a Major) few gears from it over the years and for things like a missing or damaged lathe changewheel as long as you have enough original to index from it will cut with a simple point tool in a cutting frame, also made a few mag timing gears for stationary engines on light duty lathes. A friend used it to make a replica of Harrisons wooden wheeled chronometer as he couldn't get oak and it ran a treat dry toothed.

I hope someone who has used the silent drive coupling can answer the 'do you have to account for it compressing' query.

Overnight I was wondering what sort of load the pump actually demands - Ronald, I don't suppose you had any reason to put your inverter display onto Current / Amps when you were operating your pump on the electric motor ??

It was not unusual for the friction of the big slide valves on steam loco's to absorb 50 HP a side - the salesman or designer might be optimistic but the dyno never lies!