Hello everyone. I am new here and just about to embark on a Major restoration!
My machine is a '55 Major which is currently fitted with a loader. It has had a rough life and deserves a fresh start. The plate has the number 1365036 on it.
I would like to rebuild the engine but I notice there are several rebuild kits on ebay showing both a 34.92mm piston pin or 31.75mm pin. I believe, with some searching online, that mine should have the latter.
I also would like to obtain a valve train kit for it but this too provides options for the Major on ebay with both 7" and 8 1/2" spring kits available.
Living in Nevada I am trying to make sure I get the right stuff shipped out as most parts appear to be in the UK. Also, is there a reproduction shop manual available for it?
I'm looking forward to getting stuck and sharing my restoration here. Very happy to be part of this group of Fordson enthusiasts.
With a number of 1365036 your tractor is November 1955 build.
The first thing to check is that the engine number stamped on a pad on the block just above the injection pump ties in with the number on the serial plate to be sure it has not had an engine change. The engine number is the crucial item.
Up to engine number 1362379 the piston pin was hollow and 1.25 inches (31.75mm) in diameter. For engines between 1362380 and 1425097 the pin was solid but still had a diameter of 1.25 inches. For engines 1425098 onwards the pin was hollow again but the diameter was increased to 1.375 inches (34.9mm).
For engines from 1217101 up to 1609838 the valve springs had 8.8 coils with a free length of 2.48 inches and a compressed length of 1.98 inches, these were silver grey in colour. For engines 1609839 onwards the springs had 7.5 coils with a free length of 2.31 inches and a compressed length of 1.97 inches and were black in colour.
All this presupposes that components such as heads have not been swapped around! The crucial thing is the serial number stamped on the cylinder block.
I & T Shop Service Manuals published by Technical Publications division of Intertec Publishing Corporation, Overland Park, Kansas do a workshop manual that should suit your needs. These are available in the UK from Technical Publications UK and website is www.tractormanuals.co.uk it will probably be as easy to order from UK as USA.
1946 E27N, 1952 Major Diesel, 1959 Power Major, 1962 Dexta, 1962 Super Dexta, 1963 Super Dexta NP, 1964 Super Major NP, 1965 Super Dexta 3000, 1966 Major 4000, 1967 3000 PF, 1994 5640,plus Basildon built NH.
Just to clarify matters up to serial number 1380939 in March 1956 the serial numbers were punched on the engine flange just behind the starter motor on the left hand side of the tractor, as well as on the identity plate on the battery bulkhead - you are fortunate if the identity plate has survived as many tractors lost them over time! Numbers were NOT punched on the engine block just above the injection pump until 1380940 onwards in March 1956.
So if you tractor still has the original engine then there should be NO numbers punched on the pad on the engine block just above the injection pump, and the engine number will be the one punched just behind the starter motor, which if it is the same as the number on the identity plate 1365036 would confirm that it is the original engine.
If there ARE numbers punched on the engine block above the injection pump then it probably will have had an engine change at some point and the numbers on the engine are the one's to use when ordering parts, not the numbers on the serial number plate.
It is often better to strip down the engine to check what is fitted before ordering parts, if you can do that.
1946 E27N, 1952 Major Diesel, 1959 Power Major, 1962 Dexta, 1962 Super Dexta, 1963 Super Dexta NP, 1964 Super Major NP, 1965 Super Dexta 3000, 1966 Major 4000, 1967 3000 PF, 1994 5640,plus Basildon built NH.
Step one here is getting this loader off the thing. Ive been lubricating the nuts and bolts for a few days now to make life easier. I have never done this before so I am simply running on common sense (I think). I have noticed that the Major bonnet cannot be attached as it would from the factory when this loader is on it, it just wont open. You have to remove it from above in one piece.
My FPM had an old loader attached when I bought it, and I removed it on advise from several chaps wiser than me, their thoughts being that the steering would wear prematurely with such a lump of weight over the front axle!
I had the luxury of a forklift truck at work, so put a sling around it and took some weight off whilst undoing stuff. I found it was much easier to remove the loader from the brackets and then remove the brackets with the loader dumped on the floor in the yard. Doing this was quite easy on mine, I removed the pins attaching the rams to the loader and then drove the pivot pins out from where the loader arms meet the brackets coming up off of the chassis/frame. Once the loader was removed I then used a rattle gun (air impact wrench) to remove brackets ets. I did find some of the bolts needed to be replaced in the holes they came from as they were securing the frame rails to the engine/gearbox... to be on the safe side whilst dismantling I put some pallets on a pump truck under the sump just in case, only because my Jack was back at home! The hydraulic feed on mine had a tap fitted so removing the pipe work was easy- if you don’t have a tap you may need a blanking cap/plug before you start the tractor up again!
Thanks for your input. Does your chassis look like mine? I did think mine was a little different than most and attributed it to the fact it had a loader on.
No! As Old Hywel suggests, I too think that this may have been built as a loading shovel machine rather than a tractor, but I’m no expert and I’m sure there are guys on here who will be able to identify.
You can see from my photos where the brackets were, from the different coloured paint. You can also see that I need to do my timing cover seal pretty urgently!
I can see where your loader was attached and that we definitely have different setups.
I was able to identify my loader as a Ford 712 industrial and have ordered a manual for it, this should shed some light on how to detach it from the tractor correctly.
I'm doing my best to get this loader off soon so that I can put the tractor in the shed before summer bakes us to a crisp.
A quick update on progress. I have cleaned out the air filter and added new oil, changed the engine oil and filter and the fuel filter, along with cleaning the sediment bowl. I ended up ordering a new lift pump because the one on it (looks original) leaks like a sieve.
The biggest surprise was the ancient FoMoCo oil filter I took out of the thing. It looked as old as time and this along with the sludge I removed from the sump suggests it has been many a decade since its last oil change. There was also a bit of diesel in the oil.
When running, It still idled a little high and lumpy with a good helping of white/grey smoke so I dug into the governor housing and the diaphragm had multiple tears and holes which cannot be good. I ordered a new one but my question to those learned Major owners is... what is the other round seal called (First picture; resting on bench) that rests on the diaphragm and where can I get one? It looks original vintage and a little warped so I would like to change it out also.
Thanks Henk! I do think it was very loose there as it rattled and the simms pump did tend to jiggle about the place. I have a new "drive pad" on order too to, hopefully, bring everything together for a better fit. I set the timing to 26 degrees. Ive never known an engine to start up so well, its like it wants to run and is always ready! Great motor.
All Majors for the Super had this rattling sound. It was characteristic because of the pertinax coupling. The later Supers had a sort of rubber and was much quieter.
An employee of a dealer once told me that he had spent hours looking for the cause of a badly running Major. In the end, the coupling was loose. Hence my suggestion.
The reason im asking about seals for the injectors is because I found engine oil all over them when I took them out. Im new to diesel, this is my first diesel motor and I was wondering if there was ever anything to seal them when in place. This has to be, at least, partially responsible for all the smoke im getting? Or perhaps this is completely normal?
I have noticed seal kits of diesel injectors online and wondering if the Major had one? Also, were there any seals on the fuel return line where it meets the injectors?
Anyway, thanks for bearing with me and tolerating all my questions. I have attached some images of what I fished out. The injectors are by Simms... original?
There should be a copper washer in the bottom of each injector port, these seal the injector into the cylinder head. If the washers aren’t there or have worn then I would suggest that the oil on the injector tips is coming from the top of the engine (Under the rocker cover) and leaking into your cylinders. At worst, and I’m not suggesting that this has happened, the oil could be coming into the cylinders from a head gasket failure, but I’d check for and replace those washers first off as this is most likely your problem. You are correct in saying that this could be the cause of your smoke!
Makes absolute sense, thanks again. I suppose I can just take my injector to the hardware store and match something up but I have no idea of thickness or any other dimension washers and I cannot find any information. What about your leak off line on top of your injectors, do your banjo connectors have copper washers?