Major restoration

This forum is for the Fordson New Major, including the Super Major and the Power Major.
mathias1
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Re: Major restoration

Post by mathias1 »

terry82 wrote:
Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:34 pm
Makes absolute sense, thanks again. I suppose I can just take my injector to the hardware store and match something up but I have no idea of thickness or any other dimension washers and I cannot find any information. What about your leak off line on top of your injectors, do your banjo connectors have copper washers?

Thanks
If you go for a head gasket set, these copper washers are included. In meanwhile you can also fit a new rocket cover gasket and some other seals.
Fordson Super Major New Performance
County Super 4 built on the Fordson Super Major

terry82
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Re: Major restoration

Post by terry82 »

Thank you for the input, Mathias. I have taken your advice and ordered the kit. Its always good to have extra parts!

:beer:

SvendH
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Re: Major restoration

Post by SvendH »

I have worked on 2 supers and always found the injectors covered with black oil on removal,I dont think it means there is anything wrong with them.
It is normal for a major to smoke if it has been ilde for a long time.
I have found the major engine surprisingly tolerant of malajustjment and lack of care,but they WILL smoke unless Very accuratly timed at the pump and put to Hard work now and then!
The copper washers may be stuck at the bottom of the injector holes.

terry82
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Re: Major restoration

Post by terry82 »

This is more than just smoke. Picture the red arrows on the runway before take off.

I thought I would need to pry the injectors out since they might not have been out since new but they slid out excessively oiled, I would say they were not torqued down correctly as some bolts were almost loose enough to remove by hand.

I did think that maybe the copper injector washers were stuck so I scratched around with a pick trying to grab something and I couldn't find anything. I will try again though.

I just discovered today that the injector pump was not attached to the pump bracket so it was moving all over the show when running. I think its poor performance is a combination of all these things.

SvendH
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Re: Major restoration

Post by SvendH »

The loose pump will make the engine run Very rough for sure.
Very interesting tractor yours is!!

terry82
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Re: Major restoration

Post by terry82 »

A quick update on lack of progress.

After a few weeks replacing parts and crossing fingers, all the problems remain. I replaced injector nozzles and seals, pump diaphragm, fuel pump and changed all fluids and filters, secured injector pump to bracket and timed it.

The initial complaint remains, smoking and slight rough running at idle and when asking anything of it at all pure white smoke all over. I was hoping to get a few chores done in the yard before pulling the engine to rebuild it, but I may have to concede defeat as I fear something pretty bad is happening, perhaps the head gaskets gone or there is a crack somewhere. Also leaks a lot of engine oil from high up.

Now to get the loader off and engine out. I'll update in the near future with pictures.

TimMarquee
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Re: Major restoration

Post by TimMarquee »

Hi Terry,

Have you checked the injection timing using the marks on the flywheel? I had my pump rebuilt and used mimec degree instead of Simms degree, and had a nightmare trying to start it up. I re-read all the technical information and re-timed to (I think) 21 degrees and he now starts up without even one revolution of the starter. There’s a couple of good threads on here explaining the timing procedure, not a difficult procedure but can be a bit fiddly if you have big hands!

Tim

Billy26F5
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Re: Major restoration

Post by Billy26F5 »

Hi Terry,
Before you start your rebuild, try adjusting your damping valve.
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It's the bolt head and lock nut on the front of the governor. This should cure your rough running.
Your leaks are probably from the rocker cover or injector rubbers, as long as it doesn't affect the oil level just keep it clean for now.
If it's white smoke it could well be for lack of heavy use or too much idling; Here's Billy after tightening the bolts on the cultivator for some 15 minutes or so
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Some work with a plough or cultivator should clear it.
Hope this helps.
Sandy
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terry82
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Re: Major restoration

Post by terry82 »

Hey Sandy,

Thanks for the advice and pictures! I noticed this damping valve when i replaced the diaphragm but had no idea it might solve my problems. Is there a correct method for adjusting this or just crack it a bit and see what happens while running?

Cheers

Billy26F5
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Re: Major restoration

Post by Billy26F5 »

The Ford manual says to do it by trial and error, you'll definitely notice an improvement if you start the right way (it can be either, so if it gets worse, just go the other way). Don't move it too much at a time though, as you might miss the right position.
Sandy
ImageImageImage

terry82
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Re: Major restoration

Post by terry82 »

Thanks, Sandy.

Adjusting the screw increased the revs and thats all I could notice. It still smoked a lot. Im not really in a position to put her to work at the moment unfortunately.

I do notice, when running, that coolant spills out of an overflow below the cap. Were these fitted with an overflow bottle? or has a previous owner bastardized this system?

Would someone be able to show me their coolant cap for reference?

Thanks

Image

Billy26F5
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Re: Major restoration

Post by Billy26F5 »

Hi Terry,
The damping valve adjustment will affect the revs, but you should get even revs at one point.
The smoke is unlikely to go without work, but if you let the engine get hot and give it a light load it should clear a tiny bit.
I'm afraid your radiator filler isn't right, but there's no expansion bottle, only a drain pipe down the side.
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Unfortunately I can only show you the early type filler, which isn't the same, but on your tractor, the plate with a large hole bolted on the front cowling would have the cap and filler neck, and a short 90 degree hose from there to the radiator. Pressure caps were available and I recommend them thoroughly, if the liner seals are sound (no coolant in oil).
Sandy
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