Radiator repair

[mathias1]

I have a badly leaking radiator, tried already a leakstop but it failed the leak is at the bottom and its behind the casing.
Should i go for an after market one or get it fixed and get it recored at the same time?
I have spare radiator, which has a leak in the core. Might use that one in the meantime.
Both are super radiators, but i noticed a difference in size for the drain tap

[Billy26F5]

The one with the smaller tap is probably not an original one, I would fix the original one, and see if you can then fix the spare one, but give priority to the one that is clearly original (I think the thread is 1/4" BSP, it's the same size as the thread in the block for that drain tap).
Sandy

[John b]

A leak in the top or bottom tank is easier to repair than the core, if the tubes are old and corroded inside then a re-core will be needed. As Sandy says, i would rather fix an original than use a reproduction one as the originals are far better quality. It may also be worth checking the cooling system pressure with the engine running, I have seen a blown head gasket cause a radiator to leak, the rad was old and corroded and gave up before the cap released the pressure

[shepp]

If it is an original radiator and the top and bottom tanks and the frame are good then definitely go for a recore. I do not know what it might cost where you are but in the UK a top quality job with the correct core to match the original (fin on tube, sandwich fin, 10/11 fins per inch, 8/9 fins per inch etc. etc.) will cost around the £200 plus VAT mark. Quality radiator specialists have machines that can make up the core to correct specification.

[Billy26F5]

I think it's 5 fins per inch on radiators after 1420356, 10 fins per inch on previous radiators that had shutters for TVO engines, both using fins on tubes. It's possible that there was a wee leak there and someone tried to solder it and melted away the solder holding the two halves of the tank causing a much bigger leak, Super Billy's original radiator is like that, currently awaiting repairs that were dismissed as more expensive than a repro radiator that only got a few hours use before the engine failed. I want to try and fix the radiator, but at the moment we're a bit busy.
Sandy

[mathias1]

there was a crack at the tap, which we got repaired by soldering it.
I fitted a new belt at the same time, cause that one really had done it's job way too long..
on last run it was blowing some coolant on the cil head. I guess I need to look at the cap, I think it's a pressured one.

[Billy26F5]

Good repair. I might check the torque on the head bolts, I wouldn't loose the pressure cap if possible as it improves cooling.
Sandy

[mathias1]

I did take another look at this today, as i have aroad run tomorrow (last one for this year). First i Did retorque all head bolts. Then i found out there is a crack just above the inlet manifold. There was some water dripping out.
Just wondering if it is possible to weld or I need to look for another head.
I'm also wondering this is the original head. I did take a picture of the casting code

[Billy26F5]

That looks like an Ebro code, I would have a go at welding it but be ready to get another head just in case.
Sandy