Oil Pressure????

[Power60]

Hello Everyone
I have owned a 1960 Fordson Power Major for about 4 years now and have enjoyed using it. It however has developed a problem that I am hoping you may have some advice to share with me.
It has and still does run well but last month the oil pressure light didnt go out. It is usually dim when it starts and a few revs and it goes out, however it is now on and as bright as when the engine is not running. At the exact same time the generator light stopped working and I had hoped that it was a little electrical issue. It turns out that the bulb is blown and may just be a coincidence.
I tried a new oil pressure switch but this has made no difference and still the light remains bright, I thought I would then change the oil and I put some Lucas Oil Stabiliser in as I thought if it made a difference it could indicate a more serious mechanical issue. It is still on and very bright.
I am now getting to the point of thinking about a new oil pump but I see that it involves the front axle being removed and I dont have any jacks and stands etc that are the right size for a vehicle of its size.
So I just wondered if there are any checks I should do before investing in some new bigger tools and what is the best way to do an oil pump assuming that is what you think the problem may be.
This is the only tractor I have ever owned so I am not too knowledgeable about them but have plenty of car experience.

Thank you for reading this and I would love to hear your thoughts!

[Billy26F5]

I suggest you put a pressure gauge in (for testing only), it might show something else. Did you change the filter? And what oil did you use? The charging light does sound like a coincidence, does the oil pressure light go out when you disconnect the wire from the switch? If the light passes this test and all oil stuff is ok but no pressure then you will want to drop the sump, it is possible for the relief valve to stick but it normally sticks closed causing excessive pressure. The fact the light wouldn't go out without revs suggests trouble but the gauge will be more accurate. You should really have a suitable jack as you'll need it to adjust front wheel bearings and brakes fairly often, an axle stand is a good idea too. The sump is awkward, if your tie rod pins are loose it's easier to just take the tie rod and A frame off, but then the tie rod will need work too. The A frame must come off anyway, you can then move the axle out a few inches forward if the tie rod pins are ok (to do this you'll need to remove the front axle pin and handle the axle forward, worth having an assistant for that). Do remember everything is heavy. Manoeuvring the sump out is not very easy but possible.
Would love to see some pics and have the serial no. and casting codes if possible.
Sandy

[Power60]

I suggest you put a pressure gauge in (for testing only), it might show something else. Did you change the filter? And what oil did you use? The charging light does sound like a coincidence, does the oil pressure light go out when you disconnect the wire from the switch? If the light passes this test and all oil stuff is ok but no pressure then you will want to drop the sump, it is possible for the relief valve to stick but it normally sticks closed causing excessive pressure. The fact the light wouldn't go out without revs suggests trouble but the gauge will be more accurate. You should really have a suitable jack as you'll need it to adjust front wheel bearings and brakes fairly often, an axle stand is a good idea too. The sump is awkward, if your tie rod pins are loose it's easier to just take the tie rod and A frame off, but then the tie rod will need work too. The A frame must come off anyway, you can then move the axle out a few inches forward if the tie rod pins are ok (to do this you'll need to remove the front axle pin and handle the axle forward, worth having an assistant for that). Do remember everything is heavy. Manoeuvring the sump out is not very easy but possible.
Would love to see some pics and have the serial no. and casting codes if possible.
Sandy

Hello, thank you for your response. I changed the oil and put in morris 20/50 with a new filter. I have not tried seeing what the light does when I disconnect it from the switch so I will do that this afternoon and let you know.
I bought it off a chap who had many Fordson Majors and he had spent a lot of money on this one so I hope he would only have done it if it was a good sound one.
Once I have tested the light with the wire removed I shall order myself a gauge to test the pressure. What sort of figure should I expect from it?
Thanks once again for your help.

[Power60]

I have just been out and disconnected the wire from the oil pressure switch. I turned on the ignition and the light came on as normal and remained on as it has been doing with the engine running. Does this indicate a wiring issue?
Thanks again

[Old Hywel]

Yes.

[Billy26F5]

I suggest you check areas where there might be insulation issues, also disconnect any intermediate connections you find and retest, as that will help locate the issue. also take a direct wire to the switch from the battery through an ammeter, the amps should stop as soon as the engine is at stable revs (note when you have a new oil filter this will take much longer the first time) and never come on until you stop it, even at idling speed. If this test is not clear then do the gauge test (probably worth doing anyway), 45 psi when the relief valve opens, otherwise I wouldn't recommend running if you have less than 20 psi at idle when hot (Ford limited it to 30 psi). When cold the relief valve should always be open.
Sandy

[Power60]

Thanks for your suggestions, I have been out to the tractor with a wiring diagram in the hope of getting my head round it all.
I was struggling for a while trying to work out why the violet wire from the switch would have been changed to a different colour. Shortly after I spotted the violet wire on the back of the generator bulb! After swapping them back into their correct holes it made a lot more sense (not my doing I promise). If I disconnected the wire from the pressure switch it would not light up. So it would appear the oil pressure is fine but it looks like the tractor is not charging which I imagine is a way better problem to have.

[Billy26F5]

Agreed. Disconnect the D and F wires from the dynamo and the regulator and turn the key to on, the light shouldn't come on. Then repeat the test with the regulator but not the dynamo connected, you should have the same result. If either of these fail either a wire is not well insulated or the regulator has issues. Still with the dynamo disconnected polarise it (connect the battery insulated terminal to F on the dynamo for a short moment, too long will ruin the field coils) then run at 1000 rpm with D and F on the dynamo connected to a voltmeter, you should have over 24V. If you do then check the regulator, if not then dismantle the dynamo and check the brushes and commutator. To check the regulator disconnect A and A1 (if you have an RB106/2) or A (if you have an RB108, fitted from 1542263) then with a voltmeter on D and the dynamo connected increase the engine speed from idle until the needle flicks then steadies, this should be at 15.6-16V at 68ºF. Also check the cut out connects at around 13V (voltmeter on A). If this doesn't work inspect the contacts and set the gaps before rechecking. If after that it still doesn't work correctly adjust the regulator. I recommend you read both these manuals regulator sections, they give you all you need to sort this out.
http://www.smallholderservices.co.uk/si ... electrical this is a Dexta manual but it covers both regulators you might have
https://traction-owners.co.uk/wp-conten ... ontrol.pdf this is a Lucas manual which will give you the basics and also other very good information.
Sandy

[Daves rusty bits]

Did you replace the blown gen bulb and if so was it a good one? I think the circuit gets disconnected without a working bulb