Our new 4/62 Super Major

[leeroy]

Is this the serial number for the tractor or just the engine?

This is one of two Fordsons we picked up a few weeks ago.
As you can see in one picture, the control lever is bent. Probably the least of the issues but any thoughts on straightening it?

[Billy26F5]

That is the serial number (engines were only different if replaced, Ebro had a separate engine number but it was in addition to the serial number), April 62, one of the last before the minimec. The numbers were changed in November 61 . The stop lever is not easy to work on, probably easiest to remove the casing and lever so you can work on it more easily, as usual with injection stuff keep it as clean as possible. The lever is brazed onto the shaft, which can be a weak point (never known of it happening on a stop lever but have had issues with throttle parts that were brazed in a similar way). Is it still stuck?
Sandy

[leeroy]

Sandy the bent lever on the Super is also stuck. Looks like I will be learning more about injector pumps!
This Super has the vacuum governor but has the lift pump commonly used on the later Simms Mimimec with the mechanical governor.
I assume this won't be an issue when the time comes for attempt at starting?
Knowing this is putting the cart before the horse here: What is everyone's opinion on what to do with the backhoe and loader if we end up getting her running?
Originally my plan was to remove them. We have a Ford 2120 with a backhoe and loader. But I suspect if the Super runs it may be stronger.
The 2120 is probably faster but is lighter for sure.
If we did decide to remove the backhoe and loader is it feasible to turn it back to a tractor with lift arms and hydraulics?

[Billy26F5]

I recommend you fix the stop lever first, it will allow you to oil the rack at the stop casing end from outside. From 1613500 till 08B-756398 the lift pump was as you have, yours is totally original. I would keep the extras on, it will have far more power available. It's perfectly possible to fit hydraulics but it depends on what you already have fitted as you might need lots of parts.
Sandy

[leeroy]

I have not had the valve cover off the Super, but remember seeing light rust through the oil filler cap. Would this indicate a different approach than what I did with Daisy, the 1954 FMD?
I would like to get cylinders soaking soon now that I have a better grasp on injector removal.

[Billy26F5]

I would start just the same, see how you get on, if this one is seized then you will want to put stuff in and let it sit, but I would give it a chance first. The rust would want to be cleaned off but you need to be very careful doing so to avoid any getting further in the engine. If the injector nozzles are rusty you definitely want to soak the cylinders. Make sure you get it in neutral as before, also see about the hydraulic pump if it has an engine driven one like Daisy.
Sandy

[leeroy]

I'll post pictures as soon as I get valve cover off.
The hydraulic coupler is similar to Daisy's but looks in better shape as well as easier to isolate from drive shaft
While looking closer at injector pump, I noticed some play in the front shaft. At the coupler, but not the coupler if that makes sense.
Picture or maybe even a video.
The Super does not have a name yet. "Rose" and "Nora Batty" are the two we've come up with.

[Billy26F5]

Depends on what play you have there, the coupling to auxiliary shaft clamp bolt is a typical one to check, if it's a bearing that's a big job. Glad the hydraulic pump drive shaft is easier to work with.
Sandy

[leeroy]

The Supers air filter. Tough to get good pictures

[Billy26F5]

I see that, that's an AC filter. Fair amount of dirt there, you could definitely look at it to see if it's in a better state inside. I think you might want to relocate the starter lead, as you see here on Super Billy.

Sandy

[leeroy]

I think the bottom might be ok from a peek down the top. It looks like remnants of oil, where Daisy's was dry and rusty looking from the top and was as you know.

[Billy26F5]

Sounds encouraging, If there's still oil there that can't be better.
Sandy

[leeroy]

Some rust in the valve train. We were aware of this before buying. I'll get a better shot when rocker cover is off.
The rust will make it more of a challenge for us. What are some options in this scenario?

[Billy26F5]

Mainly looks like surface rust but a better view will help. That top hose looks odd. What does the engine oil look like? Watch out for the rubbers on the breather pipe, they can be quite poor and new ones are not easy to get (part no. E28-CG-9, 2" long, 3/8" bore, Super Billy needs new ones but one of his is different as he's later making it even harder to get). Looks like there's power steering on this one (that uses unusual oil, SAE 10W to 10ºF, SAE 5W for consistently colder, the filter might want changing too, belt tension of 1"). I would clean the outside before opening things up as it then gives you an easier time when leaning against this and that trying to get things to work. Is the main hydraulic pump still attached to the crank pulley? From what happened on Daisy it's probably worth checking for debris in the manifolds, just in case! (not expecting anything in the intake unless the hose is in trouble) Theoretically it shouldn't have a live clutch with all that extra stuff so that should make things simpler, If there's a screw cap greaser on the RH side of the bell housing below the cross shaft you have a 13" clutch.
Sandy

[leeroy]

Thanks for your description of things on the Super. I took the bonnet off today for a better look. Alot of rust has fallen from the bonnet, which is in poor shape. Now I see the difference in the air cleaner and the breather pipe.
Power steering has oil in it. Looks red like atf, but I think we have a red power steering fluid here in the USA.
I will clean it up before taking rocker cover off. It'll be interesting how you guys suggest I proceed once you've seen the valve train.
The only picture today is for the question of servicing brakes. I think I can swing the floor plates out of the way. Guessing at least one side is seized.
The silencer is rusted solid in the exhaust elbow. Not sure if this is a bad sign.

[Billy26F5]

If there's ATF in there the seals could well be in trouble, Ford were very clear about using SAE 10W to 10ºF, SAE 5W for consistently colder, not power steering fluid or any other hydraulic oil. Start with a flush before trying to use it. The exhaust stuck in the elbow doesn't sound great, this is about the only place you could use heat on without ruining everything (as it gets hot when running anyway, don't let it cool too quickly though). Pitty about the bonnet, hope it's not too bad. Our half Super Major one split in half from seizure, although it had other issues too. Access to the brakes would be ok with removing the footplates on an ordinary Super Major (but not brilliant) but it looks like you have a frame right in the way. If a disc is seized on you'll need a very big puller to shift it.
Sandy

[leeroy]

I guess we will see about brakes once we know she runs. Rain, snow, short days, and work have kept us from accomplishing much.
Got the starter for the Super cleaned up but have to order new brush springs.

[Billy26F5]

Looks like you've found the issue, they are still available in Britain but not sure in your area. Our weather had been quite good but it's now wet again here too. Probably not going to get any ploughing done till after the new year.
Sandy

[leeroy]

As you can see it was rusty. The band around the brushes had corroded enough that moisture had gotten in. The brushes would not move in either direction. We have them moving good now. Found springs on ebay. Hopefully the starter will be okay. I suppose I could see if it spins with one missing brush spring?

[Billy26F5]

That's very rusty, glad you're getting there, you could test the starter as it is (unloaded only) but probably not worth it, if you wait for the spring you can then test it under load and hopefully avoid taking it apart again. The commutator looks reasonable, if the starter is a bit weak try cleaning it, a lathe is best but you can just use sandpaper with a block of wood if needed.
Sandy