hydraulic problems

yelbike · Post by **yelbike** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:41 am

We travelled last summer to San fransisco with the RV, we never needed sleeping bags until we hit the costal 101 hwy, is it ever cool along the coast! I'll keep you in the loop!

yelbike · Post by **yelbike** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:52 am

Okay so it looks like the weather is supposed to break..... we woke up to -49 this morning but by Sunday the weathers supposed to be at +1C!!

Brian, you said I should put in two gallons of engine oil along with 5 gallons of karosene in the final drive, then let it run for 30 to 45 minutes.

Now do I just let it idle during this time or should I be using the tractor and exercising the hydraulics?

I only have a small window to rectify this problem so I have to get it right. I really to would like to clean snow with my new tractor!!!

Post by **Brian** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:53 am

You need to drive around but not do any heavy work. You may need to drop the bottom plate again and clean the filter. Check to see if the hydraulics work but you may have other problems if water has been in there for some time, such as valves sticking due to rust.

yelbike · Post by **yelbike** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:21 am

Three questions.

Is it a big deal if I use diesel instead of karosene to flush out the hydraulic pump/drive? Karosene seem a little difficult to come by.

I was able to remove the drain plug and cover from the diff, I found the screen completely plugged with soft ice/foam "crystals." I think it must have sucked the the screen in, does it need to be replaced? Or can I still use it even if its partially collasped?

I was drive the tractor to the my friends heated shop about 10-15 km away. The first 2 or 3 km the I was in three high and I could see sparks coming from the exhaust pipe, not lots. It was night time. Does this indicate a serious problem or is it carbon burning off? It cleared up by the end of the cruise.

Post by **Brian** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:22 am

Question 1: Yes you must use kerosene. Diesel will affect all the "O"rings and seals in the lift and cause them to fail.

Question 2: Clean the filter, no need for a new one, you might try to straighten it a little but do not put a hole in it. Looks like you have found your problem.

Question 3: Sparks from the exhaust? You are lucky!! Henrietta's glow bright red most of the time!! Sparks are normal especially with an engine that does not do any hard work. If you could get her on a plough or rotovator at night, pulling hard, you would have a veritable firework display!

JC · Post by JC » Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:52 am

Brian,
What is in diesel that causes it to eat up the o-rings? Around here, diesel is getting to be so much like kerosene that I can't tell the difference. I put diesel in my kerosene furnace, and it can't tell the difference, either.

Post by **Brian** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:00 am

Don't know JC but I have seen it happen. The rings go all soggy and slimy. Same thing happens with certain protective gloves.

I think it is in the composition of the "O" ring perhaps, rather than the fuel but I'm no chemist.

There certainly is a difference between diesel and kerosene over here. Diesel is very "oily" where as kerosene is "dryer". I run a kerosene boiler and use it in Henrietta. She will run better on a diesel mix and at times, pure diesel.

JC · Post by JC » Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:56 am

There used to be a big difference in diesel and kerosene here, too. They've taken almost all of the sulfur out of the diesel now. That may have been what made it seem oily.

We used to put diesel in Cat transmissions to clean them, but I'll remember not to use it in my Majors.

yelbike · Post by **yelbike** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:28 pm

Well I flushed out the drive with Karosene and it came out like milk, I probabbly have to flush it out another time, maybe in the fall. I put in the new fluid everything works great. Is there any way of adjusting the flow rate on the bucket cylinders? Its too slow. The loader cylinders are fine, I've played with the flow rate adjustment knob and that make a difference, but its still fairly slow.

essex pete · Post by **essex pete** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:08 pm

Brian wrote:Don't know JC but I have seen it happen. The rings go all soggy and slimy. Same thing happens with certain protective gloves.

I think it is in the composition of the "O" ring perhaps, rather than the fuel but I'm no chemist.

There certainly is a difference between diesel and kerosene over here. Diesel is very "oily" where as kerosene is "dryer". I run a kerosene boiler and use it in Henrietta. She will run better on a diesel mix and at times, pure diesel.

Brian am I reading that right, you can run H on diesel?
If so would that always have been so or has the composition of diesel changed a little over the years?
Regards Peter

Post by **Brian** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:33 pm

Pete,

Initially I ran her on kerosene and 4 star with a little diesel added for lubrication.

When I moved here twenty odd years ago I had no heating so did not have kero so I started running her on a diesel/petrol mix. I found that she would start straight away on this so have not used the petrol start facility for many years now.

When we put heating in, I started back on kero but found that she ran better on the diesel mix so that is what I use now.

On a number of occasions I have put straight diesel in when she is hot because I have got low on fuel and she has ploughed quite happily.

yelbike · Post by **yelbike** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:08 am

My tractor has been sitting around for the last two weeks, then today I took it out to clear some snow and its doing the same thing again. It was about -12C this afternoon when it froze or plugged up. Is this going to be a regular occurence? Should I flush it again? I was thinking of using a magnetic heater of the diff to try and heat the oil above freezing, will it work? Any help would be great!
Thanks
Patrick

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:16 pm

Brian wrote:The pump is under the oil so it does not need to be primed. You will need about 10 gallons in the rear axle through the filler at the back behind the seat. The dipstick is near the gear shift.

Things to check:

Does the PTO still drive? The pump is driven from the PTO so this has to be in gear. Flat lever near the clutch.

Do you hear the engine loading when the lift lever s right at the top?

Does your loader work from the tractor hydraulics or does it have a separate pump?

If it works from the tractor hydraulics. Push the selector button in and make sure the lift arms drop about 1". Then pull the button out and try the loader again.

Make sure your selector lever near the lift lever quadrant is in the up position.

Try moving the quadrant lever up beyond the top stop.

If none of this works, it is possible that you have had water in the system and the control valve has stuck. If so, this will mean that the lift will have to come off. This is not a bad job but the lift is heavy and you have to be careful not to damage the valve by setting the lift down on it. Get back to us again if it still does not work after the above.

Another simple possibility is that water has frozen in the intake filter in the bottom of the rear axle. This can be removed by going underneath and taking the four bolts out of the round plate on the bottom of the housing. Remove the drain plug and the oil first though as it will run up your sleeve and into your armpit if you don't.

Another thought. What oil did you put in? It should be the same as you use in your engine NOT a 90W. Fords changed the spec. in 1957.

Sorry for being stupid but does the PTO have to be on for the hydraulics to work

Post by **Brian** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 6:35 pm

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 7:03 pm

Brian wrote:Yes.

Thanks, that clears up one little mistery

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hydraulic problems

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