FPM to work on.

[RH]

SR,

No, I hadn't heard of the Castrol Super -Clean.

Will have a look and see if it's available around these parts. Thanks for the tip!

Rick, Yes, Caustic will eat aluminium! I made sure this part was all cast before I dunked it in. It won't touch iron or steel, even brass is OK but no alloys.

Thanks for the warning though, It Could have been bad if I dumped other parts in!

Cheers,
Richard.

[SkidRoe]

Check at Canadian tire, they should have it.

Cheers - SR

[RH]

That's great, SR, I do have to call in town soon.

Thank you.

R.

[oehrick]

Yes, not generally a problem but the oil pump and IIRC some of the valve parts being Ali its not ideal for conserving already worn tolerances.

Unfortunately many folk find out the hard and expensive way so always worth a heads up

Your congealed oil sounds some strange stuff, hope the 'dope' shifts it

[RH]

Rick & all,

In my other thread, "dilemma" I mentioned the amount of awfully sticky oil in the rear end of this tractor, and how it had glued everything up. It's set like rubber!
I went to local scrapyard and got some parts I needed, nice cowl, seat, and a few other bits, and also picked up a spare valve chest.
This one is clean as a pin inside, no rust, no tar, no oil that's pretending to be silicone. Got the hyd. lift cylinder and piston as well, and no rust and all still painted with primer.
Got me thinking about changing the whole rear end as this strange linseed -like stuff won't wash off and I can't put the whole tractor in caustic. (!)

I asked about the price of the whole rear end, and he is going to let me know after he figures out how long it'll take him to clear a path to it!
Told him he could have back what I didn't need of both of them.
I know the high /low works on this scrap one, and mine doesn't. also I do have to split mine to renew seals in front of the gearbox, so it's not a lot more work.

Please forgive repeating this, but thought the gist best all in one thread.

Another question;

Even with a good battery, this tractor cranks Slow. is my starter needing a re-build?
When running, it has Lots of power and the governor works well.
Any other ideas??
I changed oil and filter, and Thankfully they hadn't dumped that syrup -like oil in the engine as well. (gearbox has it though!............you can hardly move the gear lever!)

Thank you in advance for any ideas.

Richard.

[peter2]

Hi Richard,

Rick & all,
Even with a good battery, this tractor cranks Slow. is my starter needing a re-build?

I struggeled with my starter too a few weeks ago and bought a new one. It looks identically to the original Lucas but has no numbers or signs on it.
It turns a lot faster than the old one. Starting however was difficult with the battery I had, so I changed it too. Now it starts ok but needs a lot turns at first start.
The older battery (Mid 2012) seems to have been damaged by the old mechanical regulator. It's not completely gone but needs a very long run or an external loader to get full.

Peter

[RH]

Thank you for your reply, Peter.

I know my battery is all right, as I took it from another that turns over well with it.

Will check the starter out.

Just wondering about yours needing a lot of spinning to start;

I am sure you will be setting the cold start button on the pump, but if not, that makes starting more or less instant in most cases.

All the best,

Richard.

[SkidRoe]

Excess fuel button is a must. Our old Super Major wouldn't start without it.

Our current Power Major has a slow fuel pump leak (external) that needs to be dealt with, and loses prime to the injection pump, making it hard to start cold.

Internal fuel pump leaks are not uncommon, look for a rising crankcase oil level.

HTH - SR

[peter2]

Hi Richard,

the use of the excess fuel button gives me an imediate start and a a starving engine the next second. After that I have to release it manually and turn it with the starter lots of seconds, depending on temperatures in my shop. So I start directly without the excess fuel button.
But I'll give it a try next time. My button does not release itself when operating the throttle. I remember my manual saying that it will pop out when moving the throttle. I always have to climb down and release it manually.

Peter

[RH]

That's odd, Peter.

Maybe Brian could chime in on this, as I can't think why it would work as it does.

Maybe start a thread and ask him, as it sounds a problem having to start it as you do.

[Brian]

Never had a lot of problem with a sticking button on the Major or Power Major, the problem one was the Super with the Minimec pump. All Minmec's can stick, Nuffy will do on occasions and the engine runs on three, no power and will not start if it stops. The way to un-stick is to pull the stop and push it back before the engine dies.

On the Major and Power Major, take the stop control housing off the back of the pump and clean it out. Make sure it is all free to move. The linkage is possibly causing the rack in the pump to stick.

[SkidRoe]

On our PM, the button doesn't "snap in" and latch like I remember on the SM. What would cause that?

I know on the Minimec pump (our 6700 and TW-30 both have them) that you need to open the throttle a bit before it will latch. Shouldn't have to do that though, right?

I am guessing that it need to be pulled apart to have a look....

TIA - SR

[peter2]

Hi Brian,

All Minmec's can stick

I can confirm that, I have a minimec pump.

Peter

[RH]

Well, Had another bash at the FPM today.

Ran some of the oil out the gearbox. Looks honey coloured but sets like glue. same stuff as rear end.

Took belt pulley & drive off to see if I could see why high/low shifter wasn't working. No, couldn't see any problems.
Pulled other bits off so I could get at the shifter lever, and sure enough, it was slipping on the spindle! Ah! ....easy fix I thought.
After a fight I got it tightened up, and found it wouldn't move. Same oil gone like chrystalized syrup has gummed it up.
Pulled plate off the other side of the gearbox with the selectors attached, and by using a pry -bar, could Just move the high /low shift selector back and forth a little. Stiff as hell.
Squirted it with penetrating oil, and worked it and worked it.
Now, if you pull up or push down on gearbox selector lever, it Just moves, Really slow.....but it Does move. This oil has been a Sod!

Question;
Can I put paraffin/kerosene and oil in the gearbox and run it around? No load, just run it like I will have to do for the rear end?? Would some Dexron/ATF help clean/lube up the selector rods?

I'm still waiting for a price for that other rear end, so am continuing with this one in the meantime.

Richard.

[Brian]

Paraffin and oil was what was recommended by Ford so it should be OK. Not diesel though as this will affect the "O" rings.

[RH]

Thank you Brian, I'll give it a go.

I'll maybe squirt all the rails with ATF first and work them some more. Everything in the gearbox looks beautiful, but when left with a thin film of this oil, it sets like fly -paper.
When I drained out the oil, there were pieces in it like the skin off an old can of paint!

More as and when....

Richard.

Update,

Squirting the range selector rods with ATF and working them back and forth, first with a pry -bar and then with the selector lever, Finally got them moving something like.
Now got to put it back together and put mix of paraffin & oil in gearbox and rear end, and give her a light run around for a while, to hopefully rinse things out a bit!

Question;
Can I engage the belt pulley for a short time whilst doing this?

Seems that by doing so would help throw some oil up on the top gears better.

[RH]

Another update;

After getting the range shifter moving a bit, (all gummed up with dried -on oil) I removed the gear lever and cleaned out the crud & sprayed it all with dexron. Got gear lever cleaned up and refitted.
Feels less sluggish now.
Put flushing oil/kerosene in gear box & rear end and took it for a run around yard and up the fields and back, maybe 50 minutes.
Engaged PTO for a start, just a minute or so as I haven't re-fitted valve chest and she wanted to spray out a bit. also engaged belt pulley to help flush the old oil out.
Ran quiet even with this stuff in , only 4th gear has a bit of wear/ noise as is usually the case.
Range selector still stiff, but getting better.
Need oil seal for PTO output end at rear of tractor, plus oil filter then I can re-fill rear end with the right stuff and call that end done!

Clutch seems a bit iffy, and PTO clutch doesn't work yet, so will try and break that loose before I split it to renew seals between gearbox & clutch.

Better to sit on now, with 'new' seat fitted. A tractor that looks like crap with a bright blue just painted seat!

[RH]

And another update;

Right, the oil in the rear end and gearbox Was boiled Linseed(!). Don't ask me why. all leaks had set like glazing or icing on a cake, and gummed up the works as well.
Got most of it cleaned out, and a new PTO seal fitted, washed Hyd. filter/ screen and such, plus magnets and put all back.
re-fitted Hyd. cylinder and piston and valve chest.
Re-filled with new Real tractor oil!
PTO clutch still stuck (no wonder with this gluey oil leaking into the clutch from gearbox) Ran it around the yard a bit, then stopped it and end engaged the PTO.
Ran fine, then tried the lift arms. Nothing doing.............Then, oil running down the back tyre and wheel!
Yes, it had been set up with hydraulics for attachments, and me being used to the Super with the shut -off valve, this one is different and as my hose was open on the hyd. control, I was dumping my fresh oil on the ground.
Fitted a bung in the line and Now the hydraulics work like they should, for the arms that is. Lift and drop beautifully and stay where set when the tractor is stopped.

Next job is split to clean out the clutch and fit new oil seals on cross shaft & front of gearbox. Might give it a bit of work first, to see if the PTO clutch will un-gum. Brush mower or something.

Question;
The hydraulic control has a hole for a cottar pin where the lift lever operates, Is this to keep the lever in the high position when using external hydraulics?
My book might say, but I can't find it at present!

Richard.

[Daves rusty bits]

Glad you`re getting the old girl fixed up Richard, following your posts with interest. Yes the hole on the top of the slider gives you constant pumping if you put a clip or 3" nail in there. I do this to drive a log splitter. Dave

[RH]

Thanks for the reply & answer, Dave, I thought it may be so, but without the book wasn't sure.

PTO question.

When I depress clutch , it won't clear, and just grinds when I try to engage the PTO lever.
If I stop the engine and pull the lever back, and re-start with clutch down, the PTO is stopped as it should be, and starts up when clutch pedal raised.

So, what does the grating tell me??

BTW, I found the only thing up to now that will remove the dried -on linseed is Circa 1850 furniture stripper!!.........but don't leave it on too long or it'll eat any remaining paint.
Best,
Richard.

[Brian]

Try it for a while on the brush cutter, it may just be rust on the clutch plate. Cannot remember if you have a live clutch or not but also check that the pin in the clutch pedal bracket under the foot plate is in the lower hole if it is indeed a live clutch.

[RH]

Thanks for the reply Brian,

It is the dual clutch, and will indeed try it on the brush cutter.

I will also check the clutch setting and length of rod, now I have found my book again!
The pin is in the lower hole

Did get drawbar assembly put back , and some add-ons removed, and need to fit the proper nose -cone but that's a minor detail.
Levelling box all freed up and turnbuckle working. (One missing yet)
This one has pretty bad foot-rot as well, but they all hold wind so OK for now.

Thank you again!!
Richard.

[guduell]

Maybe late but soft soap, i think it is called that in english, is good loosening up hardened linen oil. But it is strong and will remove paint and i do not know about rubber. If in warm water it solves quicker.

[RH]

Thank you for the soap tip, Guduell!

Well I have the PTO clutch working. It was out of adjustment. I don't know yet how much life is in it, as the adjuster rod is shorter than the book says.
I still have to split it to fix oil seals but will give it a bit of work first and see how it goes.

I should take some pictures. Scabby old beggar that it is!

[oehrick]

Going back a page Richard, if the pump is out, I can't think of anything else ali in the back end, hot / warm caustic soda would loosen the dried linseed, is not expensive, not environmentally hazardous to dispose of (most places) if well diluted and reasonably safe to handle / use with simple safety gear.

Was linseed grown much your way ? and one for the statesiders, did cotton seed get pressed and yield an oil and if so what was it mainly used for?