Rebuild with problems

[oehrick]

Great news Billy - good progress despite the finger

Regarding heating the oil, a village hall or other place where the WI or cricket club brew gallons of tea will often harbor a good one, but perhaps an older one in store as standby - a fiver for the tea fund buys a lot of teabags and you don't need to tell them what its being borrowed for

With a running Major, why would anyone with blue blood in their veins need a LGF? lifeboat to hang on the TPL ? anchor ??

[billy]

Yeah its getting there, but ended up at A&E for five or six hours...then I had to organise about four chaps to pick the engine back up!!

Haha, I don't think my conscience is too good to do that! Anyway even with the best of cleaning I think the it would affect the tea! And I cant do that to anyone!

Anyway, the oil is not really good enough. the picture below shows. For about 2 or 3 seconds after removing the plug, I just got water...




After the oil was drained I looked in the filler cap...any ideas how to remove the glupe??

[Brian]

Fords recommendation was to mix about 1/2 gallon of engine oil in 2 gallons of kerosene/paraffin, NOT diesel, then run around for about half an hour, drain and repeat as required.

[oehrick]

Posh London resaurant would sell you that at a premium and call it mayonnaise Billy

[RH]

Billy,

That oil looks wonderful to me!

In my P-Major, they filled up the gearbox and rear end with boiled Linseed oil!!!!
Now, try and get That stuff out!
Lost my sense of smell largely in a sinus op, but my son confirmed it Is linseed.
Worst of it is that as the seal is leaking between gearbox and clutch, the same stuff got in my clutch and has glued the PTO plates together. sets like glue and sticky as flypaper.
Just telling you this so you know that it Could be worse, LOL!!!

Best,
Richard.

[billy]

Ohh, that must be hard to shift! I had to use a scrapper to clean the engine oil, it had turn to grease muck.

I am now replacing seals, ive got many leaks, from the belt pulley, the brake shafts, axels, PTO shaft and the steering box. So lots of work yet! Can wait till the fluids are nice and its not leaking out!!

Cant wait till its done, getting a bit exciting!

[billy]

So, ive started on the seal replacement. Beginning to wish I hadn't....

With help of a mate, we got the back end open, then with a lot of head scratching we figured out a plan...set up an A frame to support the bull gear.



Then we managed fairly easy, to our surprise the shaft easily slid out. Now, this is the problem...how do you get the out bearings of the shaft?

I have never seen a puller with legs the length of the shaft, obviously it has to come off square. What have any of you chaps done?

[Brian]

Churchill made a special puller with long bolts back in the day. You have to destroy the tin seal housing and that will allow you to get a punch on the bearing or allow you to get the shaft in a press with a couple of bits of angle iron behind the bearing.

When you put the new seal and housing on, make sure you have a cork washer to go around the surface of the axle housing. Some suppliers do not supply the cork with the seal housing.

[oehrick]

Lest you think of lifting heavier stuff than the bull gear, be careful with the old scaffold poles Billy, while end on they are extremely strong, horizontally they are not and despite testing the flex, a bit of gentle bouncing with some of the load on they may seem fine BUT just when you least expect it under load they go from straight to banana shape in no time at all and god help anyone in the way.
Size for size water or gas pipe may be stronger if thicker walled, doubling or trebling up may improve the odds and keeping the uprights as close as possible to the loading point helps too (think A frame rather than H frame in both directions) but if you absolutely have to lift anything substantial block it up to minimise any drop. I prefer a bit of I beam or a decent timber beam for preference but scaffold is just so light, quick, easy

My 'Waterloo' moment was about 10 o'clock one Friday night up a church tower, 5 cwt of bronze, cast in 1636 and I needed it up by about 2ft to stand on some timbers, nearly there when the tube bent with no warning, its surprising how fast something goes downwards even while bending a tube, the bells downward progress was brought to a halt fortunately straddling two rolled iron girders but the resultant crash could be heard over quite a distance judging by the number of parisioners who subsequently arrived while I was still busy trying to determine the amount of damage to my underwear! Thankfully the bell, had been badly cracked some years before was due to be broken up for re casting, needless to say I had put up a proper stillage and block carriage ready for its return but every time since I have jury rigged a lifting point that accusing clang has reminded me what happens if you get it wrong.

Hope you don't mind the friendly heads up just in case you didn't already know and good progress on the sealing front, having tried those yard / metre long bits of studding you can buy for similar extractions they are too soft to be much use. A boilermaker friend showed me a technique he uses for getting tubes out of tubeplates, he runs a heavy bead of weld round inside them and as it cools it shrinks them slightly, have used this on bearing outer races which are for the scrap heap and like with welding a bit of rod on a broken stud, in cast iron the weld does not adhere if you 'miss'.

[billy]

yeah, ill bare that in mind, although, that pole was bent when we had to drop a gearbox in a landrover

Anyway, back to the tractor, most things are going well, however...

1) is there supposed to be a gasket on the brake shaft. I had a major oil leak, so took off the shaft and it was just metal face. I'm guessing this is why it leaks...can someone just confirm this?


2) also I am starting on the hydraulics, the arms a stuck down. However I this thts because lots of horrible oil. The question is, How do you remove the lift arms? I thought it was just unbolt and slide them off. But not on this girl, they are stuck fast... any help??

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hello Billy
This photo shows what's happening.
There's a seal set into the casting on both sides of the rear axle housing where the brake/clutch pedal shaft passes through.
You'll have to drain the rear axle housing, dismantle the pedal mountings, withdraw the shaft, then replace the seals.
Best, Adrian.

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[AdrianNPMajor]

Just dawned on me that you might mean the bull pinion shaft seal.
This photo shows the seal.
More info to follow if required.
Best, Adrian.

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[billy]

Hiya, yeah sorry maybe I didn't make it clear

My tractor has drum brakes that stick out a further then your picture, I can't see a o ring or even a groove for one. It just doesn't make sense to me if there isn't a gasket?!


Also has anyone got any ideas about pulling off the lift arms from the shaft?


Cheers!

[Brian]

You do not have gaskets on the bull pinion shafts, you have metal shims that preload the dif. crown wheel and pinion bearings. These have to be shimmed to give the correct preload and backlash on the crown wheel. There are seals in the bull shaft housings that stop oil leaking into the brakes.

The lift arms should just pull off the square shaft once the bolt and washer are taken off the end. There are no splines to seize so a couple of smacks with a hammer should get things moving.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Sorry Billy
I didn't check further up the thread. I forgot which model your tractor was.
This is the bull pinion for your tractor. Once you've removed it as in the photo, knock the shaft out of the casting. Easiest way is to hold the casting and drop the assembly down onto a block of wood. Once the shaft is out, you will find the seal just behind where the aluminium bronze bearing is in the photo.
There's another seal the other end of the casting that stops grease contaminating the brake shoes (see second photo).
My photo shows the job in progress, so the bolts are not yet rewired.
Best, Adrian.

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[billy]

Thanks Adrian, that's made it clear! Just waiting on the seals now!!

Another Problem...has anyone had a difficult steering wheel to remove. If try using a puller, barring it, taping it sideway to shock it....nothing. I don't want to heat it because it is close to the diesel tank...thinking cutting Any ideas??


Thanks!