The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Henk. My hydraulic pump blew the orings again. They lasted for about 10 hours of decent work. You mentioned in this post about shimming the pump. Can you elaborate on how to shim what needs to be shimmed ?
The bearings that the gears touch, show minor signs of wear, for a 62 tractor.
I thought about taking the pump to a machine shop and having them shave 10 thousandths of a inch off and clean up all the wear and then cut the main center section to where when all the center pieces are in the center section, they will be totally flush. Hopefully if they are flush, whwn the two end caps are then bolted on, the orings will hold, and stop blowing out. Does my idea sound ridiculous ?
Should I stick with the shimming idea ?
I am really lost at this point on this particular subject.

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I will try to post pictures of my pump this time.

The Super pump is different from the New and Power major. But it also has two gears.
Mine had axial play on both axles and that causes braking the butterfly O-ring.
Made from thin bras ( thin metal is even better) a few shim rings with inner dia from the axle and outer dia from de gear. Thicknes about 0,2 mm. You can use the same methode as for a gasket. Shimmed until the play was minimum.
Hope you can understand what I mean. If not maybe some of the others can explain.

Are you basically putting the shim in the pocket of the front and back cover that holds the oring and then is bolted together with the thru bolts ?
Where exactly do the shims sit in thw pump on the geared shaft. The bearing block side of the gear or the cover end of the pump that has the oring in it ?
Sorry for the lack of terminology. I don't know the name of the parts.
Did you see in the pictures I posted where the center section of the pump, when the gear bearing plates, or all the guts of the middle section are assembled and flushed, it left a bit of a lip or bur of metal gap ?
What do you rhink of having that shaved down to make it flush again ?
Would shimming the gears effectively bring the guts of the center section flush to the body of the center section, to keep the orings from blowing out.
That seems to me, what you are trying to explain, if I am correct.
Thanks for trying to help me figure this out !
I really appreciate it !

I now have studied the drawing in the parts list and see that there are two butterfly O-rings. The pump is much different from the early type.
I now doubt that my suggestion will work.
As I see it, the gears with the two end bearings must have the same length as the pump house. Maybe check this first. Check both bearings and gears for rough edges. Check the end plates as well. Both bearings should have a minimum play in the pump house. Both axles should have a minimum radial play in the bearings.
The butterfly O-ring should fit right. not to large or to small diameter and the right thicknes.
Parts list gives 4.197" I.D. x 0.103" thicknes. Thats 106.6 mm x 2.61 mm.

Thank you for the suggestions and advice.
I went ahead and left the pump at a machine shop and am going to have them shave the center section, so that when the bearing are on the gear shafts, and it is flush to one side, they are going to remove the few thousandths of a inch from the other side. Hopefully then the thrust plates, which the orings fit into, will fit more snug and allow a better seal.
I am hoping to get a little more life out of this pump this way.
I did however find a man willing to sell me a pump, and ship it to the U.S , so I am going to ahead and purchase it as well.
Either way, I am going to try my old pump, just to test my theory and see if it works ! Maybe someone else can benefit from this experiment one day.
Worse case scenario is a blown oring or the pump will split, I think ... lol
Lets hope it works flawlessly though, as I need the tractor as soon as possible, and the pump I am buying will take about 3 weeks to arrive from Scotland.
I will post back my results, whether good or bad !

Check that your PRV valve is working, not rusted or jammed solid - this limits the maximum pressure the pump will face, like everything else on the Major (in modern thinking!) they were over engineered but maybe not to the extent of being dead headed ! if the gears themselves are not badly worn there should be no where else for oil leakage, you sound on the right track - I take it you inlet pipe and strainer to the pump are not blocked and restricting oil flow ??

I have taken the pressure relief valve apart and cleaned it.
Even tried to shim it once, when I couldn't get any pressure.
I did remove all shims though. It works and clicks, and pressure sharply drops off.
The pick up strainer has been thoroughly cleaned and I tested mt pressure pipe from pump to chest lid for cracks..etc.
The pump will actually hold presssure now, but only for a few hours, and it seems the hotter the oil and the heavier the implement, the sooner the thrust plate orings are missing chunks, when i open the pump.
I am hoping the modified/machined pump will hold under load for longer than several hours.

Sounds like you've eliminated the other options, fingers crossed your machinist is able to get back near to the original pump tolerances for you