Pascals gearbox rebuild

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

Here's a little update from me.
It was pretty easy to get the seals, gaskets, drive shaft and bevel gear...the bearings were a complete different story..
It doesn't really helps when they send me the wrong size, although I had given them the old ones to compare..
After 3 weeks I finally got all the bearings I need so far!

I hope to start working on the gearbox on Thursday. First thing to do is to put the most rear gearbox-axle in and than mount
the gearbox housing.

Some bearings consist of two or three parts (inner ring, cylinders and outter ring). On one side of the bearing cage there's a
bigger ring (to hold the smaller cylinders within the bearing) than on the other side. Does it matter on which side I mount then?
Any other advises when mounting bearings? It's the first time for me.

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

Here's an update.

Last week I put the gearbox housing back on to the rear axle. I painted the gearbox housing and some small parts.
I hope to get the primary gearbox back together this weekend.

I'll keep you updated.

[Kiwi Kev]

Some bearings consist of two or three parts (inner ring, cylinders and outer ring). On one side of the bearing cage there's a
bigger ring (to hold the smaller cylinders within the bearing) than on the other side. Does it matter on which side I mount then?

Pascal
Yes, it does matter which way round you mount these 2x piece bearings. They are designed so the gearbox is able to be dismantled and reassembled. If you mount the race with the side wall around the wrong way, you won't be able to assemble the gearbox. It's not hard to work out which way round the race should be, just check before pressing on the bearings.
Kiwi Kev

[Pascal]

Hi Kev,

Thank you for your reply. I figured this out myself, luckily BEFORE pressing the bearings on the axle.

Tonight I am going to work on the primary gearbox. I hope to get the main shaft in...the last time I tried, I had
quite some trouble mounting the round "bolt" with the four wholes (at the back of the axle), because I couldn't really keep the axle tight/still.
The axle kept turning, while I turned the "bolt"..

I'll keep you updated.

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

Last weekend I put back the gearbox housing, after replacing the bearings.



I took the opportunity to give the house the same (new) blue colour as the engine and rear axle.



Tonight I reassembled the gearbox for about half. Tomorrow I hope to get this bearing ring out.
I have to figure out how to do that..



I'll keep you updated.

[richard the wrecker]

To get the bearing track out, run a bead of weld around inside it,allow to cool it will then almost fall out

[Dandy Dave]

To get the bearing track out, run a bead of weld around inside it, allow to cool it will then almost fall out

I second that motion. You will be suprised at how easy it comes out after the weld cools and actually shrinks the bearing. I've done this many times in the past. Dandy Dave!

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

Thank you for your advices! Unfortunately I have no welding equipment, so I cut the bearing ring out very carefully.

Tonight I did the last past of the reassambling. Who would have tought I would revise a gearbox...certainly not me!
Tomorrow I will connect the bolts with iron wire to prevent the bolts to loosen.



I'll keep you updated.

[frode]

Good work, Pascal

[Pascal]

Thank you, Frode!

Last night a neighbour and I managed to get the gearbox into the gearbox housing.
Quite a struggle, but we won!
It's great to start "building" again instead of pulling things apart.

Question:
In the clutch house, there's a small gap between the gearbox housing and the gearbox over the complete outline of the
gearbox. Since the paper gasket broke (I use liquid gasket in combination with paper gasket) would it be a good idea
to fill the gap with liquid gasket? To prevent the gearbox leaking oil into the clutch house?

[Dandy Dave]

YES. You do not want oil in the clutch housing. Dandy Dave!

[Pascal]

Hi Dandy Dave,
That's clear. Thank you for the advice. I'll het some liquid gasket to fill it up.


Last weekend I mounted the High/Low, the steeringhouse and the belt pulley.
Unfortunately I had quite some trouble mounting the gear selector plate (on the clutch side)..





What's the right way to do this?
Should the collars of the gears be in a special way (middle, left or right)?
Where should I put the end of the gear lever in: in the lower or the upper shaft-bracket?



Is it normal, that I can't move the lower shaft from left to right? I can do that with the upper shaft, but only when I turn it upwards.



I guess this will be solved, when I drive the tractor a bit forward or reverse? When the engine is back on, I can do that.




Thank you in advance for your answers!!

[Emiel]

Hello Pascal,

about your gear selector housing, I don't know. Use a little wd40 and try again.

Bottom picture is normal, if gears are not selected these run in different speeds.

Regards Emiel

[Dandy Dave]

In most transmissions, I try to put everything in neutral and then slide in the shifter and fork ass. You can check it by rotating the clutch shaft by hand, and shifting though the gears to be sure that you do not have two gears locked at once because a fork is in the wrong place. As far as the high, and low range goes. You may need to be in high, or low durring assembly as it is only a two position lever. Pick whichever slips together easiest. it will take some trial and error. Don't be disappointed if you miss on the first try. It happens to the best of us, when everything is lined up, you will know. Dandy Dave!

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

Thank you for your replies!
I have removed the upper axle of the gear selector plate. After removing the spring and the "bean" (I don't know the correct term )
between the axles, I found some metal splinters of the bearing cage in one of the wholes of the lower axle.
After removing the splinters, I could move the lower axle easily.

After mounting the upper axle, I couldn't move the lower axle anymore..
It seems logical that one of the axles should be in neutral, before the other axle can the moved.
But where the neutral of the upper axle, so I can move the lower axle? Í can't really figure out how it works.
And I can only move the upper axle by bending it upwards. How is that done within the gearbox? Or is there another way?

[Dandy Dave]

With the main transmission in neutral, and the high and low trans in one position, you should beable to see the input shaft spin and the counter shaft also spin. You will not beable to see the output shaft spin if both your rear wheels are on the ground as at least one rear wheel will need to be free to spin. You may need to slide the clutch plate on the input shaft for some leverage. You should beable to see a speed difference in the high, and low position with the main trans in neutral, and the rear wheels should not turn. Then try the main transmission in the different gear selections. You should see the rear wheel turn. If nothing turns, and things seem locked up, then you most likly have a fork in the wrong position and two gears are in mesh at once. Hope this helps. Dandy Dave!

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

Thank you for your advices!
As a wisdome says: "it's not WHAT you know, but WHO you know." yesterday evening I asked a friend of mine to help me out
to get the engine in front of the gearbox again. It was done within 30 minutes...the guy is a genius to me!
And he had the gear selector plate mounted within 10 minutes..
I'll try to post some pictures in the weekend. They might be helpfull for someone who faces the same some problem in the future.

Since I want to go to a festival by tractor next Thursday, this weekend I am trying to get my tractor running again
(mounting the tank, wiring, gaslines, dashboard, hood, etc.).

I'll keep you updated.

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

This is the corect way of the forks, when they're mounted in the gearbox again.

[Pascal]

Hi guys,

I got my tractor all together and it works great again.
Thank you very much for your advises. I couldn't have done it without your help.

[Dandy Dave]

Waaaaa Hoooooooooo,.... Ride em Cowboy.... Time to celebrate. Good Show Old Boy. Glad to hear everything is running smooth. Dandy Dave!

[henk]

Way to go Pascal,

[1962 model]

Hello,
for anyone else doing this job be sure to remove the main gearstick before splitting the gearbox.
I rebuilt one of these gearboxes on my father's 1959 Fordson and I also found that the round housing seen in the last picture was cracked between the bearing holes, hope that yours wasn't like this.

If your housing is found cracked it may be useful to remember that this part of the gearbox including the housing is not interchangable with single clutch models.

The bearings in the gearbox were metric which surprised me, I remember the bearing in the front clutch shafts was not possible to replace it as no one sells it anymore.

I remember dad saying that low range should never be selected while moving as it damaged the gearbox, I am sure it is this front gearbox circular housing that he was referring to.

It is worth checking the high and low range shifting shaft for cracks too as I had to replace one of these on a tractor we had, it broke right through where the slot is machined into it.

The clutch fork shaft tends to wear badly too after years of work, it may be worth removing this and fitting a new shaft or having it built up, bearings should be easy to obtian.

While you are at it, it would be a good Idea to check the clutch for any obvious problems, you can't see the plate wear though without dismantling it and a set up jig is used to get the finger heights correct.
The pivot pins do wear and if the clutch pedal stop has been removed the aluminum housing can get cracked from over travel stress.

Hope this helps someone,
Mike

[AdrianNPMajor]

I had a similar problem with the non live drive box on my August 63 NP Super Major. The cage on the top gear, high box roller bearing (rear) broke up as a result of the lower PTO seal failing, causing the oil to drain from the gearbox into the rear axle and leaving the bearing in question without lubricant. As you can see from the photos, the cage broke up and got chewed into flakes as it fell through the rotating gears, ending up on the floor of the box above the PTO.

I'm afraid there is no alternative but to strip down the gearbox and find out which part has failed. There is a good chance that it will be the result of the lower seal having failed. Whilst you have the box in pieces, it is worth doing both the lower seal and the higher one that sits behind the final output drive.

[AdrianNPMajor]

[Pascal]

Hi Adrian,

Good luck with the job! If you need any help, you will know where to find us.