An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

This forum is for the Fordson New Major, including the Super Major and the Power Major.
Post Reply
David Ebro
Not Quite Blue Yet
Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:18 pm
Location: Girona, Catalonia, Spain (E.U.)

An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by David Ebro »

Hello:

When on November 14 I was sowing with my Ebro 48 and the old green seed drill, I saw that the gauge of temperature was not rising of the minimal temperature: then I suspected that to the engine E1A they had taken the thermostat from him. This morning I have put a thermostat: only a key of 1/2 is needed inches and ten minutes of work.

According to the instructions of my Spaniard Lanz (yellow wheels), a cold engine gets worn ten times more rapid than an engine working to his correct temperature.

Greetings: David.
Image
"A hymn to life the ploughs sing".
(From the tango "Silence" of Carlos Gardel).

essex pete
True Blue
Posts: 216
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:35 pm

Post by essex pete »

I am sure you are right. I do not personally have scientific proof but it is well documented. I have an old perkins engine in an excavator that runs unevenly when cold and smokes. The more quickly it is put to work the better.

John
True Blue
Posts: 71
Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 12:08 pm
Location: SW France

Post by John »

The proof is the fact that a thermostat is needed in the first place. That ensures optimum operating temperature. No thermostat or 'stat stuck open, and the water runs cool.

I'm checking mine when I replace the water hoses.

Billy26F5
True Blue
Posts: 2062
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:01 am
Location: On Billy

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Billy26F5 »

I thought I would revive this thread because there's a very important detail to keep in mind: the thermostat must be the right kind. If the thermostat lacks bypass control in an engine that needs it there will be a tendency to run hot and even overheat. This also means that the opening temperature must be correct, as otherwise the engine will not run at the correct temperature. For all Major's this temperature should be between 176ºF and 187ºF, to get a running temp between 180ºF and 195ºF. Any Major with a Mk2 or later head including all Ebro made engines must have the shrouded type thermostat or the bypass control will be non existent. This is particularly important in hot climates with a 5 fins per inch radiator and a two blade 15" fan, exactly what Ebro used on nearly all their tractors (the 160's had a 17" two blade fan), with the incorrect non shrouded thermostat. A reliable and accurate temp gauge is of coure essential for this, and the Ebro ones really leave a lot to be desired. The AC ones Ford used were very good, so it's definitely worth making sure they're ok.
So next time you get a thermostat make sure it's the correct type.
Sandy
ImageImageImage

Roadless63
True Blue
Posts: 264
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 10:49 pm
Location: Derby/Hants

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Roadless63 »

Shrouded stats are hard to find but new old stock AC ones turn up on ebay. As stated they block off the bypass port. In the UK unless working hard on a hot day you're unlikely to notice any issues if you cant find a shrouded one but it's worth making the effort to have it right.
Running with no stat at all is not good but something I've seen on many occasions. The engine will not run efficiently and one of the effects is more rapid wear as stated. It also means the coolant doesn't circulate round the block correctly and I've seen many cases where the head gasket has blown on number 4 due to localised overheating.

Pavel
True Blue
Posts: 529
Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: Western Australia

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Pavel »

Many years ago when I was a member of the Triumph Car Club of West Australia we conducted a workshop with a top class coolant specialist. Part of the research was to find the difference in temps with and without thermostats plus one other state -- re-useing a dodgy one. and paying particular attention to the last comment by Roadless. All the comments stated here are valid; but consider this. When a thermostat is opened the orifice through which the water is pumped is about a third of the total diameter of the thermostat housing. Without the flange part of the stat the water pressure drops considerably and as stated often does not have the power to reach the fathest cylinder. Our tests showed that removing the wax stat or bellows and fitting the flange only permitted the water pressure to circulate to the farthest cylinder.

Billy26F5
True Blue
Posts: 2062
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:01 am
Location: On Billy

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Billy26F5 »

Good set of tests Pavel, but no good to use the flange only unless the radiator cooling capacity is fully used, therefore this can only be used in very high ambient temperatures.
Sandy
ImageImageImage

Billy26F5
True Blue
Posts: 2062
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:01 am
Location: On Billy

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Billy26F5 »

Just re read these two threads again (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6839viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7247) and thought it was worth clarifying some things.
Billy26F5 wrote:
Thu May 11, 2023 11:15 am
the thermostat must be the right kind. If the thermostat lacks bypass control in an engine that needs it there will be a tendency to run hot and even overheat. This also means that the opening temperature must be correct, as otherwise the engine will not run at the correct temperature. For all Major's this temperature should be between 176ºF and 187ºF, to get a running temp between 180ºF and 195ºF. Any Major with a Mk2 or later head including all Ebro made engines must have the shrouded type thermostat or the bypass control will be non existent. This is particularly important in hot climates with a 5 fins per inch radiator and a two blade 15" fan, exactly what Ebro used on nearly all their tractors (the 160's had a 17" two blade fan), with the incorrect non shrouded thermostat.
The above is important together with the following:
To keep air out it's essential to use a thermostat with a jiggle pin (whatever period engine you have) and to place it in the highest possible position. On a Major engine it's like this:
Image
Always ensure 3 gallons of coolant are in before trying to run (add an extra gallon for 6 cylinder engines roughly), any running without adequate cooling will ruin the liner o-rings among other things, even for just a few revolutions. A simple hole is not enough as it allows circulation to the radiator thus increasing the warm up time. For anyone wondering the engine takes 2 gallons (3 in a 6 cylinder) while the radiator and hoses have 1 gallon (all types of radiator, as the tubes were never altered).
Also all Major's have a bypass, on Mk1 engines it's a small bore uncontrolled type while Mk2 and later have a shroud controlled type with more than twice the flow capacity (water pumps are different too and should not be mixed, always try to fix the old pump first). That is where the shroud is so important. Also the engine was designed for bellows thermostats, so that should be what is used (wax types will not give good cooling to the rearmost cylinder, especially in 6 cylinder engines). Also worth noting the correct fan and radiator must be used, and always with the cowl for the fan. (for correct fan use see this: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8654) For 6 cylinder engines in hot conditions it might be worth using a radiator from a petrol tractor with 10 fins per inch (although rare on tractors after 1420356 they do exist, although I would probably prefer to recore a 5 fin per inch repro radiator for that as petrol tractors are rare to 10 fins per inch). Cooling capacity might be an issue to anyone wanting a 6 cylinder petrol (not a recommended thing but I can see the appeal for having one to go with Brian's friend's petrol Super Major). Four blade 18" fans are best for both 6 cylinder engines in hot conditions, a std 17" two blade is probably enough in Britain or colder conditions. Pressure caps should be limited to those Ford offered (made by AC) of 4 and 7 lb. Under 7 lb some bellows thermostats might suffer, but above that liner o-rings once again become vulnerable. As far as coolant goes the most important thing you need in the water is corrosion inhibitor of the inorganic type, depending on conditions adding antifreeze (only ethylene glycol should be used) will allow a wider temperature range but will also reduce the coolant's heating value, meaning it takes less heat to reach boiling point from the same temperature, and if it does boil the antifreeze concentration will become even higher. In short, 50% antifreeze is ok for british conditions but with higher temperatures it's worth reducing the concentration to enable more heat to be handled, but always have corrosion inhibitor in as othewise corrosion will ruin the liners and their o-ring grooves.
To summarise the Ford specs are the best starting point, with 6 cylinder engines requiring 1 1/2 times the cooling capacity of 4 cylinder engines (assuming they're correctly run at tractor revs) and on tractors with radiator shutters they should be used to further control temperature as per Ford instruction (only for tractors prior to 1420356).
Sandy
ImageImageImage

John b
True Blue
Posts: 546
Joined: Tue May 19, 2020 8:40 pm

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by John b »

Some good info there Sandy. With regard to radiator caps and pressure ratings, something I have seen happen twice on poorly maintained Majors (one on a log splitter and one very rarely used) was they both had unpressurised rad caps fitted. These rotted away and were replaced with pressurised ones, but both tractors just had water in the cooling systems and were drained for winter allowing corrosion to take hold. As soon as the cooling system became pressurised with the new caps the liner seals failed, one was caught in time but the other engine died a death from water in the sump. Obviously an engine this bad needs a rebuild at the very least but I think its important when trying to start an old Major engine that has had an empty cooling system for a long time that the cooling system is left unpressurised until its overall condition is established. And also a good advert for using a corrosion inhibiting antifreeze and not just using water and draining it for winter!
My biggest fear is that when i die my wife will sell my tractors for what i told her they cost

Billy26F5
True Blue
Posts: 2062
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:01 am
Location: On Billy

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Billy26F5 »

Very good cases to keep in mind, draining the coolant should always be the last resort (apart from keeping good corrosion inhibitor in and dirt out) and as far as the leak into the sump I would suggest a good look after only enough running to get pressure in the system to avoid the consequences you had. Probably worth a static test of the cooling system before running too. It won't catch everything but probably most things.
Hope you managed to fix both of them!
Sandy
ImageImageImage

John b
True Blue
Posts: 546
Joined: Tue May 19, 2020 8:40 pm

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by John b »

Luckily they were nothing to do with me. But there are an awful lot of major engines that have been ruined by cooling system neglect, both corrosion and cracked blocks/heads.
My biggest fear is that when i die my wife will sell my tractors for what i told her they cost

Billy26F5
True Blue
Posts: 2062
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:01 am
Location: On Billy

Re: An engine without thermostat gets worn rapidly.

Post by Billy26F5 »

Cracks are another issue, but less confined to wet liner engines. As with corrosion, correct coolant maintenance will avoid these issues. I wouldn't be surprised if the main cause of blocks and heads being damaged is neglect of coolant. I remember someone posting their repair of a cracked block, a very difficult job, but surely one of the most satisfying!
Sandy
ImageImageImage

Post Reply