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Hard starting
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:16 am
by yelbike
My 63 super was always great for starting cold or warm, only a few turns then it started immediately. But two weeks ago we had some nice weather so I worked her real hard cutting 2-3 foot long grass with a bulher finishing mower. Now its hard starting, it will crank for 30 seconds before starting. I give the starter a break in between. Yesterday I cranked so much that I killed the battery. I haven't tried ether, but I've never had to in the past.
Also I noticed when throttling down there was a slight noise coming from the fuel pump. Could the feul pump be out of adjustment? If so how would I go about adjusting it?
Any help would be great!!
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:38 am
by Brian
There is no way to adjust the pump without the special tools and specialist knowledge. It would also be rare for a fault to develop with the pump under the conditions you describe.
My first places to check would be the fuel filters and the filter in the tap in the tank.
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:08 am
by Tiger
Hi all, New to tractor refurb's
My power major won't start without a sniif of the dreaded easy start
Would this be down to low compression and whats the answer? rebuild
Runs fine when started
cheers
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:48 pm
by John
Hi, Tiger... mm, sounds a bit ..., put that way!
It could be a number of things, but some history would help. How long has it been going on? What's the general condition of the engine? What have you checked so far (just so that nobody repeats themselves.) ?
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:56 pm
by Dandy Dave
Tiger wrote:Hi all, New to tractor refurb's
My power major won't start without a sniif of the dreaded easy start
Would this be down to low compression and whats the answer? rebuild
Runs fine when started
cheers
Do you know about the Excessive fuel button? You need to push it when the tractor is cold. Dandy Dave!
Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 2:33 pm
by Tiger
Hi John
Ive only just got it so don't have any history i'am afraid
I had her running today for a hour while i steam cleaned her all off, and all the time she was running she gave out grey smoke.
Also every now and again she would rev up for a second, (pump, timming?). When i finished i turned her off and restarted her from warm she fired up straight away, probably hadn't even turned over 3 times
Thanks
DandyDave, yes mine dosn't appear to have one

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:14 am
by Foxen
Tiger wrote:Hi John
Ive only just got it so don't have any history i'am afraid
I had her running today for a hour while i steam cleaned her all off, and all the time she was running she gave out grey smoke.
Also every now and again she would rev up for a second, (pump, timming?). When i finished i turned her off and restarted her from warm she fired up straight away, probably hadn't even turned over 3 times
Thanks
DandyDave, yes mine dosn't appear to have one

Yours actually have one but the knob-like thing on it is broken off, the little peg that's sticking out in the "engine kill-arm" is the cold start and will engage if you push it in...
Mine's a bit different too, I thought I didn't have a cold start until I dismantled the housing it sits in and started searching the pump's number on the internet... The original pump has been replaced with an old Mark I pump, one of the very first and the cold start is engaged by pulling the axle outwards...
This is what mine looks like after I fixed 'er up... now the old man starts with a bang

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:07 pm
by Tiger
Do you think mine pulls outwards, ive tried pushing it in and it dosn't seem to move? My friend may have a new engine for me with a bit of luck

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:20 pm
by Foxen
Tiger wrote:Do you think mine pulls outwards, ive tried pushing it in and it dosn't seem to move? My friend may have a new engine for me with a bit of luck

if yours is the one on the picture and has the "stop engine"-lever housing with four screws holding it together, then the answer is no, yours is the one with pushbutton...
The quickfix is to spray it with lots of anti-seize or rust loosener oil and try pushing it in using something with a bigger surface to push on(like the head of a hammer, don't hit it with the hammer, just rest it on what's left of the button and push on the hammer instead)
Slightly more complicated fix but the "proper" way is to unscrew the four small screws situated around the corners of the housing(NOT the big set screw protruding from the middle of the housing as that will change the fuel amount your engine gets) and then soak the assembly that will come out(axle, two-part killer arm and a spring) in something that will loosen rust or whatever is causing it to bind and then gently pull the two halves apart(don't apply force to the arms or they will probably break), clean them off and then lubricate them with grease and reassemble the whole thing and you'll see that it will work
