The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

The second oil leak is at the fuel pump drive axle coming out of the engine. (lower red line) I've been working on the engine mounting plate and the gear cover plate this winter and had everything removed. Including the front of the tractor. I think that removing the axle would mean to do it all over again.
Is there a sealing on this axle and what would be the way to fix this leak. Can't find any thing in the part list.

Hi Henk,
There is an oil seal that can be fitted by removing the injection pump and drive. It has a metal case. Its just a matter of getting it out and fitting a new one. (Sorry about the paint ).

Any ideas were I could find one of these seals. Been looking at HistoParts, Sparex and others but could not find it.

Don't worry about the paint. I have lots of it.

I will check in the parts bin tomorrow.

Hi Henk,
Here are some pictures that might be helpful.









If Brian's parts bin search doesn't turn up anything, here are the dimensions of the seal:
Outside diameter 47mm
Width 10mm
Inside diameter 20mm

Hello Henk,

If there is any doubt on the smoothness of the shaft, go speedy sleeve to be sure of a good seal.

Best regards

Emiel

Thanks Brian and Emiel,

Gives me hope again.

Great pictures Emiel. Shows exactly what to do. Are the measurements not inches instead of mm?
I think I have to use a speedy sleeve on the crankshaft pulley. It’s worn and still leaking with a new seal. I was planning to machine it on a lathe next winter and press a thin bush over it, but this could be the solution.

New seal will be on its way to you on Monday Henk, along with some other bits for Dies.

The seal came in the kit of gaskets that I got for Henrietta but did not use as she does not need a seal there, the shaft is inside her governor housing.

Thank you Brian,

I think Dies will be even pleased as I.

Henk
Seals and bearings are often manufactured in mm sizes, even when the rest of the machine is measured in inches. I couldn't find an inch sized seal that would fit, but I can find the exact size in mm.

I have a US-made concrete mixer from the 1940s and all of the bearings in it are mm, even though millimeters weren't used here at that time.

Thanks to Brian, you won't need those measurements, but maybe someone else will.

Brian wrote:New seal will be on its way to you on Monday Henk, along with some other bits for Dies.

Brian,

Today I received your parcel. On behalf of Dies, thank you.
Thanks for the oil seal. I removed the old one. I have to make some tools to fit the new one in.
I'm waiting for some other parts. In the mean time I'm cleaning things up an give it a new paint on some spots.
You should see the paint now.

The seal is in place.
Any thing I should be ware of when putting the pump back?
Is there any thing to do to line up the pump?

Just ensure the clamp bolt is under the drive shaft when you line up the timing marks on the flywheel.

Thanks Brian,

I mean the line up from the pump body. The pump bracket has also been removed from the engine.
Should the axle from the pump and the drive shaft not be in one line, or is there some freeplay?

Should just bolt on and line up Henk.

Thanks for all the help guy's

Sorry for hijacking your thread henk, but I have a question that has to do with lining up the pump, I have the other kind of drive coupling on my pump, the simms one with a rubber star inside and since I exchanged pumps this one seems to "wobble" a little bit, why is it doing that? I also had the pump bracket loose and cleaned it off since everything around it was dirty as ****... Any suggestions?

Sounds like a very useful method to prevent seal wear.
I have never seen this, how does it look; how do you fit it on a shaft ?
Tjibbe

Foxen,

I had the pump and bracket of and was also wondering how to get it back in line.
Put the bracket on and made it hand tight. Than mounted the pump and hand tight it to. Than press the pump forward and feel if it flat to the other coupling and take a look at the coupling to se if the outside of the coupling is even all around. Than thigh up the bracket and then the pump. It's feel and look. You can't measure it. It worked fine with me.
I wanted to use the soft coupling cross but the sales man told me I had to buy a complete coupling, so I used the old pertinax cross.

I have the same problem and am grateful for the information so far. I have found a source for the seal, but have the choice of ESC, ETC Viton or PTFE.

Can anyone help as to which one I should get?

Richard