Torque ?

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Mon May 24, 2010 1:41 pm

Hello to everyone. I have pulled the hydraulic pump from the parts I purchased and new o rings installed. Does anyone know correct torque on the eight bolts that holds the pump together? Also when putting the vertical feed pipe from pump to top back in, I'm putting the pump in from the bottom, should I put the end of it in pump first or top first? Not sure which way will line up the best as I raise pump up from bottom and try to connect it all back together. Thanks for any and all advice.

Post by **Brian** » Mon May 24, 2010 2:45 pm

40 to 45 lbs/ft.

I would put the pipe in the top not in the pump. Possibly put the pump on a jack just to hold it up steady, not to fit it.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Mon May 24, 2010 3:01 pm

Thanks Brian, will torque it as stated. I had thought of using a jack to raise it back in. I'm looking at the raised pto on the parts '57 Major , I'm correct it will fit onto my '59 Power Major. Thanks for all of your help.

Post by **Brian** » Mon May 24, 2010 3:12 pm

Should do, they were all the same up to the New Performance Super from what I remember.

super6954 · Post by **super6954** » Mon May 24, 2010 7:03 pm

Hi
if you are going to pull off the raised pto unit and fit it to your tractor it says in my book dont pull the upper right cap screw right out from the 4 mounting bolts. This bolt has a shift fork mounted on it and i guess if it is removed completely the fork falls out. it then states to put a nut on the bolt to lock it in place so that it cant fall out between moving the unit around and re fitting it to a tractor.
Hope this info is usefull to you.
Regards Robert

Ian · Post by **Ian** » Tue May 25, 2010 12:26 am

should I put the end of it in pump first or top first?

Stick it in the top. The O ring should hold it in there. The pump is sort of shaped to guide the pipe in, where as the top isn't. We didn't have a lift, so I ended up lifting it on there by hand, lol and trust me. That was the easier way.

JC · Post by JC » Tue May 25, 2010 7:40 am

Hi Gerald,
If you are going to put the raised PTO on, you'll also need to change the PTO shaft. The top right bolt won't fall out by itself, the detente kind of holds it in. You can pull it out by hand pretty easily, though, so putting a nut on it is a good idea. Pascal wrote a good article in the Wiki about installing a raised PTO.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Tue May 25, 2010 1:25 pm

Thanks everyone for advice, if you have been on here for any period of time you know I need it. I hope to put hydraulic pump back in tonight if all goes as planned. Putting the raised pto on will be another project added to my list. Looking at it I believe there must be oil leaking:

Reading repair manual it seems I need a seal and as I read it I have to just remove the seal retainer to do this. Again thanks for everyone's advice.

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Wed May 26, 2010 2:53 pm

Another torque question. Is there a chart of all the torque requirements, I know the manual shows some on specific jobs but I'm always afraid of stripping something out when reinstalling. Does anyone know torque on the four bolts holding pto shaft in and the eight bolts that hold the bottom hydrulic pump pedestal to the housing? Thanks

Post by **Brian** » Wed May 26, 2010 4:23 pm

In the days of the Major, and when I started in the trade, bolts were "felt" tight and the torque wrench was only used on cylinder heads, big ends and main bearings and the flywheel.

Nearly all other bolts were judged tight by the mechanic. There was also an old saying, "Tight is tight. too tight is 'ping'"! It is rather crude but it worked. Even today I rarely use a torque wrench for ancillary bolts.

The tractor was designed for farmers and their staff to be able to carry out repairs on and those chaps did not have things like torque wrenches. So torque figures are not available in the manual.

I have also seen many older bolts wrung off by people using the correct torque wrench settings, simply because the bolt has "aged" over the years.

As long as it is tight, do not worry.

Foxen · Post by **Foxen** » Wed May 26, 2010 8:41 pm

When you've been doing this for a while you'll get kind of a "fingertip"(rather arm or hand tho) feeling about what's just about right, torquing further after that "feeling" will make the bolt go "ping"

Trust me, been there, done that, learned it...

Working as a bus mechanic nowadays and we didn't even have a torque wrench until today, we bought it just so we can torque the cylinder heads on a Setra on monday next week, everything else is torqued down with either machine(or in the event of a clutch repair, a 3ft extension handle), no snapped bolts so far

super6954 · Post by **super6954** » Thu May 27, 2010 10:02 pm

This subject of torque of bolts is a good one but maybe we are going Off Topic abit. there is another saying to go with Brians quote
" The ultimate tightness of a bolt or nut is the point just before the threads strip"
I own an air impact wrench but hardly use it as it has no feel to it with regular wrenches and sockets you can feel if it is right or going teribbley wrong and stop before you wreck it.
with the impact the tread or bolt is done before you realise.. When i worked in a dealer workshop my friend used one for everything and broke bolts and stripped loads of threads.
His favorite was metric fine bolts on Belarus flywheels. I spent many hours getting bolts out he wrecked . His comment was I should get one and work quicker. Its like I said though you work quicker but spend more time than me repairing threads or getting broken bolts out so I guess job for job we're even. he had no comment on that!.
If i can think what I was reading at the time there was a rough guide somewhere in a book that i have that gave ideal torque settings for most sizes of bolt . If i find it i'll post the list on here some place.