Starter motor question

Foxen · Post by **Foxen** » Sat Jun 12, 2010 9:14 pm

Well, I guess if you've watched the wiki you've seen the half-monster starter I've equipped my Super Major with... (pic below)

Anyways, since I'm nowadays working as a bus-repair-man and those tend to run off 24V it got me thinking about how some people over here ran the 6V starter on old Volvo T30-something off 12V without it burning out and since I have two 12V batteries in parallel there wouldn't be much of a hassle to connect them in series, essentially making it 24V... This will lead to overvolting the starter motor, making it run quite a bit faster(as with the 6V at 12V T30 starter) and in theory that would have it spin the engine around much faster = quicker starting than before and less time the starter was engaged = not really a problem with overvolting...

What are your thoughts on this subject, my only concern is the solenoid/magnet on mine, should I "tap off" 12V between the two batteries to feed it rather than feeding it the full blown 24V...?

Valid arguments please, not just the run-of-the-mill "It can't be done", I've had quite an encouraging discussion with my colleague at work(which has worked as a mechanic for quite a few years) and his thoughts about it were that since my starter is of the older school where they "oversized" things to make them last it would stand a good chance of handling it but I want more thoughts on it(I've also read about some boat manufacturer in the USA that ran a 12V starter off 24V as a means of brutally cold starting a diesel converted petrol engine)... so, hit me

Tmac · Post by **Tmac** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:14 am

.
I did the same thing on a couple of old machines one was an H-Farmall (gas), the other was a Old Yale/Hercules Fork Lift (diesel) that was a old militarily model that had a 24V electric system but couldnt find a 24V starter for it.

I had problems with both, the same thing on each. The commutator wire would melt the solder on the wires and blow the wires off, sometimes segments would come out. The starters would work for quite a while but on each one I finally run out of money buying starters and on the Herc/Yale run out of places to find them.

(

On the H- I finally went to an 8V battery on the Herc/Yale I built a 24V starter to fit it.

Now Iam not saying all will fail as I have seen many work a long while but mine did not last on double Voltage.
.

Foxen · Post by **Foxen** » Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:19 am

Tmac wrote:.
I did the same thing on a couple of old machines one was an H-Farmall (gas), the other was a Old Yale/Hercules Fork Lift (diesel) that was a old militarily model that had a 24V electric system but couldnt find a 24V starter for it.

I had problems with both, the same thing on each. The commutator wire would melt the solder on the wires and blow the wires off, sometimes segments would come out. The starters would work for quite a while but on each one I finally run out of money buying starters and on the Herc/Yale run out of places to find them. (

On the H- I finally went to an 8V battery on the Herc/Yale I built a 24V starter to fit it.

Now Iam not saying all will fail as I have seen many work a long while but mine did not last on double Voltage.
.

Ouch... I'll bear that in mind and think this over thoroughly before deciding what to do...

super6954 · Post by **super6954** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 12:00 am

Hi all I will say on this is that if your engine is all as it should be and the 12 volt starter and battery is big enough and in good condition it should start good with out 24 volts.
I live in canada and it gets down to -30 oc and colder we have started engines without plugging them in to pre warm them its not ideal but proves the point 12v will do it.
Regards Robert

Foxen · Post by **Foxen** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:42 am

It starts fine with just 12v, this was just a little idea I was toying with since it has been done with another brand of tractor here in sweden.

Anyways, I've put this idea on hold because it causes a bucket load of other problems... Like the trailer plug socket, all trailers I have at my disposal will be needing 12 volts... If I come up with a solution I'll be posting my results and findings here

Dandy Dave · Post by **Dandy Dave** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 2:54 pm

Since you need two 12 volt batterys to run a 24 volt starter. Run the 12 volt stuff off of one. Or fit a positive parallel switch just to start, and retain the 12 volt stuff just to charge the system like a lot of diesel trucks and construction equipment have. Dandy Dave!

Foxen · Post by **Foxen** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:25 pm

That has crossed my mind too... will give it more thought

super6954 · Post by **super6954** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:37 pm

Hi Foxen.
If you are still seriouse Daves Idea is a sensible solution I work with Belarus Tractors as well as Fordsons. I do not know what they cost in your country but late 500, 800,900, series belarus use a 12/24v split charge control box. The Tractor starts on 24 then runs all the other electrics including the alternator on 12v so this would solve your problem of changeing all your electris over. also I could probably figure out the wireing for you as well if you found a box. I may even have a contact in the Ukraine that may be able to get you one cheap! .
Regards Robert

Foxen · Post by **Foxen** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:39 pm

as said, I'll give it some thought