New Major torque specs.

[Tom P]

Hello,

I picked up a Major about a month ago, with alot of issues.
I purchased it knowing the engine was stuck and a brake was locked up. Everything was there and it came with another parts tractor minus-engine, hood, grill, and radiator. I got the brake unstuck and pushed her into the barn. I pulled the fuel system and got the head off. I found two very stuck pistons, one with a cracked sleeve. I've gotten the engine down to the crank and mains which look very good. I beileve I am ready to start throwing her back together, but cannot find any specs. ie.. bolt torques, ring gaps, cylinder sleeve preload etc. I have done a few searches of this forum and found random info, but not any thing real concise. I have downloaded the few manuals I could find (owners, parts and repair) but no specifiactions. Does anyone have this info and are willing to share it? It would be most appreciated. here is the number on the engine, above the starter 1323087, incase it matters. It does have the 4 cylinder diesel with simms pump. I guess that was how the mojority of them were built. This is my first tractor and engine rebuild, any and all help /advice is welcome.

Thank you!

Tom

[Nick]

ive just re-built my engine, with new sleeves, pistons etc. The sleves should stick out 0.002" to 0.004" (outside of sleeves). The conrod bolt torques i found out from brian on here, but i cant remember them, maybe try and get hold of him?

[Brian]

It makes no difference what engine of the Major/590 E range you have, all the torque settings are the same.

It is best to fit new lock nuts rather than use the old ones.

Torque is :

Head .. 85 to 90 ft/lbs
Mains .. 1/2" = 70 to 75 lbs ft, 9/16" 95 to 100 lbs/ft.
B/Ends .. 55 to 60 lbs/ft.
Fly Wheel .. 80 to 90 lbs/ft.

There is no pre-load on the sleeves and ring gaps are set on the new rings and do not need adjustings.

Valve cleance is 0.12" exhaust, with rotator caps, 0.15" inlet, without rotator caps.
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[Tom P]

Thank you! exactly what I needed. I started cleaning out the block last night and am debating on whether to just pull the engine completely. All the garbage is falling onto the crank. I think it might just be easier and I can get it hot tanked also. any thoughts?

Tom

[Brian]

If you are overhauling the engine and putting in sleeves and rings, it is shortsighted not to change the mains and bigends and check the crank for ovality and wear with a micrometer. It may need re-grinding, and after doing all the work so far, nothing is worse than finding low oil pressure and having to strip it all out again.

[Tom P]

Well, you make perfect sense. I will start the tear down tonight. Does anyone know If and where I can get cam bearings/bushings in the states?