RPM-meter SuperMajor
RPM-meter SuperMajor
Hi guys,
I have a 1961 SuperMajor with a vacuum fuelpump.
As my previous RPM-meter (tractormeter) was broke, I replaced it. I also replaced the RPM-cable.
But unfortunately, when I connected them, nothing happened: the RPM-meter didn't work.
It looks like to me, that the "whole" in the RPM-mechanisme next to the fuelpump has become round in stead of square (just like the RPM-cable).
A friend of mine gave me the advise to put a match in the RPM-mechanisme next to the fuelpump and see if it turned around. It did, but maybe just because of the vibration?
Does one of you have any tips to get the RPM-meter working?
Do I need to replace the RPM-mechanisme next to the fuelpump?
You can see somepictures at http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=4UZYMIHO
Thank youin advance!
I have a 1961 SuperMajor with a vacuum fuelpump.
As my previous RPM-meter (tractormeter) was broke, I replaced it. I also replaced the RPM-cable.
But unfortunately, when I connected them, nothing happened: the RPM-meter didn't work.
It looks like to me, that the "whole" in the RPM-mechanisme next to the fuelpump has become round in stead of square (just like the RPM-cable).
A friend of mine gave me the advise to put a match in the RPM-mechanisme next to the fuelpump and see if it turned around. It did, but maybe just because of the vibration?
Does one of you have any tips to get the RPM-meter working?
Do I need to replace the RPM-mechanisme next to the fuelpump?
You can see somepictures at http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Album=4UZYMIHO
Thank youin advance!
Best regards,
Pascal
Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.
Pascal
Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.
Hi Grani,
I removed the geardrive on the engineside. It works perfectly.
When I compared the wholes (where the RPM-cable gets in) of the RPM-meter and the geardrive, I noticed that the whole of the geardrive is that much worn, that it doesn't turns the cable around.
Is it an idea to put some glue in the whole of the geardrive and then put in the cable?
Or don't you think that's a good idea?
I removed the geardrive on the engineside. It works perfectly.
When I compared the wholes (where the RPM-cable gets in) of the RPM-meter and the geardrive, I noticed that the whole of the geardrive is that much worn, that it doesn't turns the cable around.

Is it an idea to put some glue in the whole of the geardrive and then put in the cable?
Or don't you think that's a good idea?
Best regards,
Pascal
Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.
Pascal
Fordson's don't leak oil, they are just marking their territory.
Hello Pascal,
What you can try is to beef up you cable with very thin sheets of foil. In dutch called "latoen koper" or maybe aluminium foil from the kitchen will work.
At least can you take these out when it doesn't work.
Give it a try
What you can try is to beef up you cable with very thin sheets of foil. In dutch called "latoen koper" or maybe aluminium foil from the kitchen will work.
At least can you take these out when it doesn't work.
Give it a try
Best regards
Emiel
N 1937, E27N 1948, 8N 1949, E27N 1950, E1A Diesel 1953, E1ADKN PP 1956, Dexta 1959, NH Clayson M103 1964
Emiel
N 1937, E27N 1948, 8N 1949, E27N 1950, E1A Diesel 1953, E1ADKN PP 1956, Dexta 1959, NH Clayson M103 1964
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Worn square drive
Pascal,
OK, now to use my toolmaking background.
How to properly repair a worn square drive.
First, dismantle the gear and shaft from the casing.
Second, fill up the end of the hole with weld or brazing.
Now find a small engineering company that does Electro Discharge Machining, commonly know in the Uk and US as 'spark erosion', german is Funkenmachinen.
You will need to give them the exact size of the square on the end of the cable.
They will make a carbon electrode that is 0.15mm smaller than this.
They will then place the gear shaft under a dialectric in the tank of their machine, usually paraffin, and use the electrode to 'burn' a new, perfectly square hole for your drive.
The process should take approximately 10 minutes.
It will then be as good as new.
Mike
OK, now to use my toolmaking background.
How to properly repair a worn square drive.
First, dismantle the gear and shaft from the casing.
Second, fill up the end of the hole with weld or brazing.
Now find a small engineering company that does Electro Discharge Machining, commonly know in the Uk and US as 'spark erosion', german is Funkenmachinen.
You will need to give them the exact size of the square on the end of the cable.
They will make a carbon electrode that is 0.15mm smaller than this.
They will then place the gear shaft under a dialectric in the tank of their machine, usually paraffin, and use the electrode to 'burn' a new, perfectly square hole for your drive.
The process should take approximately 10 minutes.
It will then be as good as new.
Mike
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Agriline at www.agrilineproducts.com, sell the right angled drive units for the tractor meters. Lok under the section headed Fordson Major.
Gerald
Gerald