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Dynamo or Alternator
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 2:34 pm
by icom102
On the tractor is a Dynamo thich is not wired up i was going to put a Alternator on insted to charge the battery simply because i was told i ened a lot more bits if i am to use a Dynamo what i am wondering what all i need if i decide to use a Dynamo at the min all i have is a solenoid
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:19 pm
by Nick
What you need is a feed from the ignition switch to one terminal, and then another cable back to a voltage regulator (should be in your dash panel) somewhere on this site or on the internet i found a simple wiring diagram. It is more original to get your dynamo working, but i reckon an alternator is easier. I used the dynamo on my major, had to buy a new regulator and wiring and switch etc, i reckon it cost somewhere near £100 all in.
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:23 pm
by icom102
i dont have an ignition switch i have a battery solenoid and starter thats it the tractor was always started on the run so if i want to use a dynamo i would need A new dynamo a ignition switch and a voltage regulator is that all or would i ened anything else ?
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:13 pm
by Nick
you may not need a new dynamo, i didnt on mine. but yeah all you need is an ignition switch of some kind (even a flick switch would do), a voltage regulator, and a bit of wire. have you got a voltage guage on your dash? you may even have a voltage regulator on your tractor that may work!
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:32 pm
by icom102
well i dont know if the dynamo thats is on the tractor works no voltage guage or regulator at all just the two clocks under the steering wheel one is the speedo the other oil and tater i thing kts knackerd needs replaced where would i get a regulator or what do they look like ?
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 9:59 pm
by Nick
right, on yours the regulator is behind the panel next to the high/low shifter. take this panel off, you may find a regulator in there, its just a box with five screw terminals about 3-4 inches squared (they are on ebay and agriline for about £20). The way to test your dynamo, is put 12volts from the battery to the large terminal and start the tractor. Next, get a multimeter and put it on the other terminal on the dynamo, and the other wire to earth on the battery. Doing this on mine shows about 19volts rather than 12volts, which shows it working.
I wouldnt be surprised if it still works
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:40 pm
by icom102
ok i dont think there is anything behind that panel but i will check tomorrow if it is there is that all i need?
have u the agriline part number?
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:38 am
by Nick
yeah thats all you need (and an ignition switch). the agriline part no is 5077, this is the original type with the screw terminals. originally your super major would have had its light switch, igition switch etc on the front of the panel, and the regulator was behind it. The guages up by the steering wheel have lights on them, green for ignition and red for when it wasnt charging the battery, you may find some wires still in behind the panel that go up through the steering column.
I love all this sort of stuff, finding out history etc
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:03 pm
by icom102
Ok just checked and no regulator thow there is not much room in behind tht panel for one to fit i wonder is the dynamo one for a major?
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:04 pm
by super6954
Hi the Tractor you are working on is a super major . The ordinary major Nick is working on had the regalator in a tin box with the gauges/ switches down by the high low lever.
Your tractor has the gauges under the steering wheel on top of the fuel tank like you say. and a 3 sided flat plate where the light switch/key and stop knob should be the high low pokes through it . The regulator on a super major or power major is attached to the air cleaner on the bulkhead. I believe from your previouse posts all this is missing and that is why you cant find it

.
If you are going to restore her to new put the dynamo on if you are going to just work it I would go for alternator such as an internal regulator Lucas. As has been said they only need a switch and it is better to fit an ignition light . the wireing is a lot easyer and it will charge better at lower engine speeds. you will have to modify the mounting brackets and if you have wide belt crank/ waterpump pulleys you may have to change them as alternators use narrow belts as on later majors.
Good luck
Regards Robert
Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 7:56 am
by Nick
ah, i didnt know the regulator was in a different place on a super. at least it will be easier to get at and wire there, its quite awkward in behind that panel!
Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 9:47 am
by icom102
Well I must look for a regulator now thanks guys
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:31 pm
by Gman
super6954 wrote:Hi the Tractor you are working on is a super major . The ordinary major Nick is working on had the regalator in a tin box with the gauges/ switches down by the high low lever.
Your tractor has the gauges under the steering wheel on top of the fuel tank like you say. and a 3 sided flat plate where the light switch/key and stop knob should be the high low pokes through it . The regulator on a super major or power major is attached to the air cleaner on the bulkhead. I believe from your previouse posts all this is missing and that is why you cant find it

.
If you are going to restore her to new put the dynamo on if you are going to just work it I would go for alternator such as an internal regulator Lucas. As has been said they only need a switch and it is better to fit an ignition light . the wireing is a lot easyer and it will charge better at lower engine speeds. you will have to modify the mounting brackets and if you have wide belt crank/ waterpump pulleys you may have to change them as alternators use narrow belts as on later majors.
Good luck
Regards Robert
Would the regulator on a Major behind gauges also work on a Power Major? Hope to work on my electricals once it cools off and believe I may need a new one. Thanks.
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:53 pm
by icom102
Just checked the dynamo and its not working
Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:11 pm
by Nick
did you try putting 12volts to both the terminals one at a time just incase?
what voltage were you getting back?
Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 6:24 pm
by icom102
Nothing at all
Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 6:36 pm
by Nick
you definetly had 12v going to it?
if so, you could either repair your dynamo or get a new one, they arent that expensive. agriline do a decent one
Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:49 pm
by super6954
Hi Guys I Am not sure how you are testing the dynamo but you can do it by joining the two terminals together on the back and put 12volt battery power there with ground to the casing if the dynamo runs like a motor it is probably fine. You do have to remove the fan belt from the engine though. If the dynamo needs turning by hand to get it to motor it is junk.
I tested one on my super the other week like this when it quit chargeing. I found the dynamo motored if i spun it to get going. So I thought it was the regulator I put a known good regulator on polarized the dynamo and still no luck.
I then went to my store and found another dynamo and tested that as above. It motored on its own without me turning it to start. That one was fitted with old regulator and she fired right up and charged.
Regards Robert
Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:59 pm
by Nick
i didnt realise it would run like a motor, good tip that is. I tested mine with a multimeter and found it worked when i had 19.2volts coming back
Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:03 pm
by super6954
Would the regulator on a Major behind gauges also work on a Power Major? Hope to work on my electricals once it cools off and believe I may need a new one. Thanks.[/quote]
Hi Gman
In theory yes you could make it work. but in practice Im not sure if that regulator will work with the dynamo. as there are two types of dynamo amp outputs and regulators it is a compllicated set up as to what interchanges.
There is a post on here by the great fordson god Brian I beleive that explains all the info you need. Try finding that.
The other thing would also be the mountings woud be different and the terminal style to. In the long run you may just as well buy the proper regulator that bolts on as you could end up with $80 in time messing around to save $50

.
Posted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:08 pm
by super6954
Nick wrote:i didnt realise it would run like a motor, good tip that is. I tested mine with a multimeter and found it worked when i had 19.2volts coming back
Hi Nick
yes good isnt it. I guess my friends used to laugh at me being the young guy talking to 70 year old, old farts as they called them

. but its amazing what these guys will tell you if you want to listen and learn

.
Regards Robert