The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I had a little spare time yesterday, so I thought that I'd try to fix the governor hunt problem. When its running below 1/2 throttle, it will speed up to about 1000 rpm and back to idle. Above 1/2 throttle, it runs OK.
It had been sitting for a long time before I got it, so I took the cover off the injector pump, to make sure the rack was moving freely. It was, but I squirted a little clean oil on it anyway. I checked the diaphragm, it looked good, but I had a couple of new ones, so I changed it anyway. It still ran the same, so I started adjusting the buffer screw on the governor housing. I got it to run a little better, but I finally screwed it in far enough that the engine died. What should I do next?
This engine is a "bitsa", as Brian would say. The injector pump is a SPE 4A 75S, but the governor lines have 1/2" fittings, instead of 9/16" on both ends, since they screw in to the intake manifold and the gov. housing, those have been changed, too.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
JC

I always tell people to try the easy things first. I should take my own advice. The reason that it died while I was adjusting the buffer screw, was because it ran out of fuel. Then I noticed that one of the vacuum lines to the governor had a strange bend in it. Who ever worked on it last had to bend it like that to make them fit on the manifold backwards! I put some diesel in it and put the gov. lines on right, and it runs fine now.

JC wrote:I had a little spare time yesterday, so I thought that I'd try to fix the governor hunt problem. When its running below 1/2 throttle, it will speed up to about 1000 rpm and back to idle. Above 1/2 throttle, it runs OK.
It had been sitting for a long time before I got it, so I took the cover off the injector pump, to make sure the rack was moving freely. It was, but I squirted a little clean oil on it anyway. I checked the diaphragm, it looked good, but I had a couple of new ones, so I changed it anyway. It still ran the same, so I started adjusting the buffer screw on the governor housing. I got it to run a little better, but I finally screwed it in far enough that the engine died. What should I do next?
This engine is a "bitsa", as Brian would say. The injector pump is a SPE 4A 75S, but the governor lines have 1/2" fittings, instead of 9/16" on both ends, since they screw in to the intake manifold and the gov. housing, those have been changed, too.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
JC

Cooler weather has arrived and making me want to go back and pull cover off to see if I get her to crank. After reading above post and Brian's sugguestion some time back that the rack may be stuck, is it ok to take cover off to check rack or is there another way to free up. Also have read on another post on checking diaphram, which I plan to try, says I will hear a clunk sound as rack returns. If daphram is bad, would this keep her from cranking?
Thanks
Gerald

JC wrote:I always tell people to try the easy things first. I should take my own advice. The reason that it died while I was adjusting the buffer screw, was because it ran out of fuel. Then I noticed that one of the vacuum lines to the governor had a strange bend in it. Who ever worked on it last had to bend it like that to make them fit on the manifold backwards! I put some diesel in it and put the gov. lines on right, and it runs fine now.

They say, tis a nut case, or a genious that answers himself back. Looks to be that you are the latter? Or tis it the empty fuel tank laddy? At any rate, Glad to hear you have it solved. Dandy Dave!

Gman wrote:

JC wrote:I had a little spare time yesterday, so I thought that I'd try to fix the governor hunt problem. When its running below 1/2 throttle, it will speed up to about 1000 rpm and back to idle. Above 1/2 throttle, it runs OK.
It had been sitting for a long time before I got it, so I took the cover off the injector pump, to make sure the rack was moving freely. It was, but I squirted a little clean oil on it anyway. I checked the diaphragm, it looked good, but I had a couple of new ones, so I changed it anyway. It still ran the same, so I started adjusting the buffer screw on the governor housing. I got it to run a little better, but I finally screwed it in far enough that the engine died. What should I do next?
This engine is a "bitsa", as Brian would say. The injector pump is a SPE 4A 75S, but the governor lines have 1/2" fittings, instead of 9/16" on both ends, since they screw in to the intake manifold and the gov. housing, those have been changed, too.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
JC

Cooler weather has arrived and making me want to go back and pull cover off to see if I get her to crank. After reading above post and Brian's sugguestion some time back that the rack may be stuck, is it ok to take cover off to check rack or is there another way to free up. Also have read on another post on checking diaphram, which I plan to try, says I will hear a clunk sound as rack returns. If daphram is bad, would this keep her from cranking?
Thanks
Gerald

Hello Dave, any suggestions on my problem with rack, I have read that cover on pump should not be taken off unless in controlled environment. According to others bad diapharm will not keep her from firing up. Hoping someone can tell me if there is a secret to unsticking rack?
Thanks to all.

Take the cover off but get and keep it as clean as you can. These are exceptional circumstances.

You will then be able to see the rack at the bottom of the pumping elements. By operating the stop you should see it move. It will be spring loaded in one direction. Towards the stop control. Try moving it with a screwdriver but do not touch the pumping elements.

Plenty of easing oil, Automatic Transmission Fliud on the rack to help it move is no problem.

As clean as you can is important. A grain of sand will ruin the pump.

Thanks Brian, taking cover off concerned me because of need of clean environment, don't want to mess pump up if it is still ok. I will look through manuals some more to get as good an understanding as I can of the pump. I have 15 gallons of oil sitting in shop waiting to go in, hope to get her started so I can change it out and test the hydraulics after putting in new seal and o rings. Our weather has cooled since last month, only in 80's now, I've really gotten the bug to do some tractor work. I appreciate your time and knowledge.

If you're worried about getting dirt in the injector pump, you can take the governor off and try to to move the rack from that end.

Dandy Dave wrote: They say, tis a nut case, or a genious that answers himself back.

You mean that I shouldn't talk to myself? Sometimes its the only way to get an intelligent answer

JC wrote:If you're worried about getting dirt in the injector pump, you can take the governor off and try to to move the rack from that end.

Thanks all. I hope to get to work on her again this weekend. Have been reading manuals which gives me more ?'s. On removing control rod/rack, manual says to remove from rear end of pump. I do not plan to try and remove but wondering if I can remove excess fuel housing and stop control assembly in order to free up rack if it is stuck. Manual also mentions problem maybe stop control stuck out, any suggestions on this, is this in excess fuel housing? Any warnings about removing excess fuel and stop control housing? Does appear to be less of a task to remove with pump on tractor instead of removing governor. All advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Gerald

You can indeed do it that way but the side plate will also let you see if you have any problems with the pumping elements.

Brian wrote:You can indeed do it that way but the side plate will also let you see if you have any problems with the pumping elements.

Thanks Brian, yea I'm still kind of scared as to going into pump and since my excess fuel button will not stay in thought it may be the place to start. Any secrets in removing excess fuel housing, do I need to look out for springs, etc jumping out at me? Manuals I have do not give any details. Since I did not have any high rev problems feel as though governor diaphram is ok. While turning over with starter should I be getting a lot of white smoke, right now it is just small puffs of white smoke.
Again thanks.

Info on stuck rack.