I have a Fordson Major Diesel where the throttle linkage has a rod that runs through the engine block. The rod does not rotate freely and seems to be broken, as the injection pump end doesn't appear to rotate when the manifold side end is rotated. What retains the rod in the engine block? I can't get the rod out. How can I get the rod out?
Does the rod perform any other function than connecting the throttle linkage? I can't get the tractor to start, and my father in law thinks the rod performs some other necessary function.
Mark
Major throttle linkage
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INDIANAMARK
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Major throttle linkage
INDIANA MARK
to help you out.Hi,
The rod has no injector pump end.
Usually is your throttle control on the right hand side from the block to the rod, goes through the block and then upstairs to the butterfly valve.
The pump is controlled through the vacuum lines.
Best regards
Emiel
The rod has no injector pump end.
Usually is your throttle control on the right hand side from the block to the rod, goes through the block and then upstairs to the butterfly valve.
The pump is controlled through the vacuum lines.
Best regards
Emiel
Best regards
Emiel
N 1937, E27N 1948, 8N 1949, E27N 1950, E1A Diesel 1953, E1ADKN PP 1956, Dexta 1959, NH Clayson M103 1964
Emiel
N 1937, E27N 1948, 8N 1949, E27N 1950, E1A Diesel 1953, E1ADKN PP 1956, Dexta 1959, NH Clayson M103 1964
Mark,
Emiel is right, there is no connection between the rod and the pump. Throttle control to the pump is done by the tubes that run from the inlet manifold to the governor housing on the end of the pump.
If your tractor will not start you need to check a couple of things before getting to the pump.
1. Do you get smoke out of the exhaust? If the answer is yes and the smoke is white-ish grey, then fuel is getting into the cylinders and you need to look somewhere else for your problem.
2. If you are not getting smoke. have you got fuel to the pump? Have you tried bleeding it? Is the fuel filter blocked or possibly the filter in the fuel tap? If it is the latter, this usually occurs just after you have filled the tank to ensure you get nicely covered in diesel when you take the tap out.
3. Have you slackened the injector pipes to see if fuel is getting to the injectors?
Majors will start, even if totally worn up, with one turn of the engine. If none of the above work, try a SMALL squirt of ether. Get back to us if you still have problems and tell us everthing you can about the tractor and when it last ran.
Emiel is right, there is no connection between the rod and the pump. Throttle control to the pump is done by the tubes that run from the inlet manifold to the governor housing on the end of the pump.
If your tractor will not start you need to check a couple of things before getting to the pump.
1. Do you get smoke out of the exhaust? If the answer is yes and the smoke is white-ish grey, then fuel is getting into the cylinders and you need to look somewhere else for your problem.
2. If you are not getting smoke. have you got fuel to the pump? Have you tried bleeding it? Is the fuel filter blocked or possibly the filter in the fuel tap? If it is the latter, this usually occurs just after you have filled the tank to ensure you get nicely covered in diesel when you take the tap out.
3. Have you slackened the injector pipes to see if fuel is getting to the injectors?
Majors will start, even if totally worn up, with one turn of the engine. If none of the above work, try a SMALL squirt of ether. Get back to us if you still have problems and tell us everthing you can about the tractor and when it last ran.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
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INDIANAMARK
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- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2008 6:24 pm
- Location: INDIANA
Brian,
Thanks for your comments.
Tractor last ran about 5 years ago. The owner, Ralph, was having problems getting it to run correctly at that time. The throttle linkage had seized, and I believe he thought the problem was related to the throttle linkage problem. Ralph passed-away about 4 years ago, and the tractor hasn’t run since then. I purchased the FMD from his daughter a few months ago. I’m a Ford man, and I have a 1942 Ford 9N. The FMD are rare here in the States, and I planned to use it for some mowing and other light chores.
I did install a new fuel filter, and purged the system of air with the fuel pump.
The tractor does fire up with ether, but then it dies. I didn’t want to overdo the ether for fear of scarring the cylinders.
I had the pump checked by a turbocharger and injection pump shop, and the shop said it is OK. I did crack the fittings on the injectors, and there is fuel being pumped out there.
I am getting the whitish gray smoke when cranking the engine. I tried pulling the tractor, but it didn’t fire until I inadvertently got it in reverse while pulling it, turning the engine backwards. When I switched gears to a forward gear and pulled the tractor forward after turning the engine backwards, it fired up briefly and died. Then I tried putting the tractor in reverse again and pulled it turning the engine backwards. Then I switched into a forward gear and pulled it forward. The engine then fired up briefly again and died.
Do you know how to remove the throttle linkage rod that runs through the block? While I have the pump off, I’d like to fix the rod. It is seized-up, and it seems to be broken, as the end on the right side of the engine doesn’t rotate when I turn the left end (manifold side). I have to but I can’t get it out of the engine block.
The other question is does the rod control any other engine function, or is it just part of the throttle linkage? My Father-in-Law, another old iron expert, thinks it controls some other necessary engine function.
Thanks
Mark A. Reuter
Thanks for your comments.
Tractor last ran about 5 years ago. The owner, Ralph, was having problems getting it to run correctly at that time. The throttle linkage had seized, and I believe he thought the problem was related to the throttle linkage problem. Ralph passed-away about 4 years ago, and the tractor hasn’t run since then. I purchased the FMD from his daughter a few months ago. I’m a Ford man, and I have a 1942 Ford 9N. The FMD are rare here in the States, and I planned to use it for some mowing and other light chores.
I did install a new fuel filter, and purged the system of air with the fuel pump.
The tractor does fire up with ether, but then it dies. I didn’t want to overdo the ether for fear of scarring the cylinders.
I had the pump checked by a turbocharger and injection pump shop, and the shop said it is OK. I did crack the fittings on the injectors, and there is fuel being pumped out there.
I am getting the whitish gray smoke when cranking the engine. I tried pulling the tractor, but it didn’t fire until I inadvertently got it in reverse while pulling it, turning the engine backwards. When I switched gears to a forward gear and pulled the tractor forward after turning the engine backwards, it fired up briefly and died. Then I tried putting the tractor in reverse again and pulled it turning the engine backwards. Then I switched into a forward gear and pulled it forward. The engine then fired up briefly again and died.
Do you know how to remove the throttle linkage rod that runs through the block? While I have the pump off, I’d like to fix the rod. It is seized-up, and it seems to be broken, as the end on the right side of the engine doesn’t rotate when I turn the left end (manifold side). I have to but I can’t get it out of the engine block.
The other question is does the rod control any other engine function, or is it just part of the throttle linkage? My Father-in-Law, another old iron expert, thinks it controls some other necessary engine function.
Thanks
Mark A. Reuter
INDIANA MARK
The rod goes straight through the block and ony controls the throttle, nothing else. It should draw out through the block on the manifold side.
If she fires on ether I would suspect you have the pump fitted 180 degrees out. This is quite easy to do if you have had it off. Check that she is on No.1 cylinder when the pump marks are lined up. This can be easily done by making sure the clamp bolt on the drive to the pump is towards the underside of the drive shaft when the timing marks line up. You can also take the valve cover off and watch when the valves on No.1 close for the firing stroke.
You may have a Mk 1 engine with the main pump timing mark, a notch, on the edge of the front pulley. This should line up with a pointer fitted just under the dynamo bracket. Check out the Wiki on this site with the pictures of my engine rebuild Fordson Wiki
. The pointer and marks are shown there. These marks must line up exactly when the timing marks on the pump and coupling are checked.
If you have the slightly later Mk 1 engine, your main timing mark is seen through a little window with a cover over it under the side channel on the pump side of the sump at the rear, towards the clutch housing. Remove the plate cover, turn the engine until it is on No 1 cylinder and line up the timing mark 26 degrees before TDC with the grove in the side of the sump window.
Check this before investigating further.
HenriettaOverhaul.
If she fires on ether I would suspect you have the pump fitted 180 degrees out. This is quite easy to do if you have had it off. Check that she is on No.1 cylinder when the pump marks are lined up. This can be easily done by making sure the clamp bolt on the drive to the pump is towards the underside of the drive shaft when the timing marks line up. You can also take the valve cover off and watch when the valves on No.1 close for the firing stroke.
You may have a Mk 1 engine with the main pump timing mark, a notch, on the edge of the front pulley. This should line up with a pointer fitted just under the dynamo bracket. Check out the Wiki on this site with the pictures of my engine rebuild Fordson Wiki
. The pointer and marks are shown there. These marks must line up exactly when the timing marks on the pump and coupling are checked.
If you have the slightly later Mk 1 engine, your main timing mark is seen through a little window with a cover over it under the side channel on the pump side of the sump at the rear, towards the clutch housing. Remove the plate cover, turn the engine until it is on No 1 cylinder and line up the timing mark 26 degrees before TDC with the grove in the side of the sump window.
Check this before investigating further.
HenriettaOverhaul.
Last edited by Brian on Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:22 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
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INDIANAMARK
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- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2008 6:24 pm
- Location: INDIANA
Thanks Brian
Thanks for explaining the injection pump timing. I'll try this to see if the timing is wrong. I marked the coupling before I removed the injection pump, and now I can see if the pump was put back on wrong. Ralph, the former owner, may have taken it off to try to get the rod out of the engine...
Thanks for letting me know the rod doesn't control any other aspect of the engine operation. I'll try to figure out why it won't come out now. I was afraid there was some type of retaining device holding it in place, and I didn't want to break anything.
Mark
Thanks for letting me know the rod doesn't control any other aspect of the engine operation. I'll try to figure out why it won't come out now. I was afraid there was some type of retaining device holding it in place, and I didn't want to break anything.
Mark
INDIANA MARK