Hello again,
I am having trouble figuring out the problem with my other Super major.
Here is a brief history;
When I bought it, it would run, after a fashion, but with a terrible amount of white smoke.
Very bad to start.
Checked timing.
lines on injector pump and drive were out about nearly 1/4" when the mark was on 23 degrees BTDC.
Aligned marks on pump and drive.
Wouldn't go at all!
Had injectors serviced. No better.
Took off valve cover. 5 bent push-rods. (Owner had been starting it with the decompression lever)
while at it, wound up putting in new main and rod bearings, new piston rings, grinding in the valves.
and of course, some straight push-rods.
Set valve clearance.
Just got it back together.
Bled system.
Smoke, No firing though.
Re-checked timing. Dead on.
Beginning to wonder. This tractor had been apart before.
Is there a chance that someone had the cam out, and put it back without aligning the marks, and that is why it ran when "out of timing" and won't run when it is "timed"
I know a faulty injection pump could make it smoke, but it drove home a few miles running not too bad, considering.
I had figured the bent pushrods and worn rings were causing the problem.
Now, I dinna ken!
If anyone (Brian?) has a crystal ball, and could fill me in on what;s wrong, that would be marvelous!!
Thank you for your time,
Richard.
FSM smoke and no fire.
Just an update;
After thinking about it a while, I set injection pump marks "Wrong" where they were when I got the tractor, and it fired up straight away, but is not running at all right. But Is a bit closer.
Do you think a key sheared off on cam-shaft, or that the cam, or whatever has been out & put back out of time?
Looks like I may have to pull timing cover, but await some directions from those wiser than myself!!
cheers,
Richard.
After thinking about it a while, I set injection pump marks "Wrong" where they were when I got the tractor, and it fired up straight away, but is not running at all right. But Is a bit closer.
Do you think a key sheared off on cam-shaft, or that the cam, or whatever has been out & put back out of time?
Looks like I may have to pull timing cover, but await some directions from those wiser than myself!!
cheers,
Richard.
Think I would look in the timing cover. It is possible for a key to have sheared or, on the earlier Supers, the three bolts that hold the gears onto the cam shaft have sheared.
If you can get the front pulley nut undone, then carefully drive the front pulley off from underneath, taking care not to pur burrs on the seal surface, then remove the bottom hose, you can get the timing cover off. Pictures in my Wiki about rebuilding Henrietta show the timing marks.
Other thought would be has the key sheared/gone missing on the pump drive.
Must admit, do not like the sound of bent push rods. Did you replace these with ones of the correct length?
If you can get the front pulley nut undone, then carefully drive the front pulley off from underneath, taking care not to pur burrs on the seal surface, then remove the bottom hose, you can get the timing cover off. Pictures in my Wiki about rebuilding Henrietta show the timing marks.
Other thought would be has the key sheared/gone missing on the pump drive.
Must admit, do not like the sound of bent push rods. Did you replace these with ones of the correct length?
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Thanks for the reply, Brian.
I will check the things you mention.
Re. the pushrods, I "Think" they are correct length.
By this I mean the replacements I got appear to match the old ones, but if the old ones were right I do not know. they seem to travel OK and the clearance seems right, but need adjusting again hot when it's run a while.
When I took the old ones out, there was some difference in length, but as they were bent, didn't think about it too much.
One or two had uneven wear on the ball, as with being bent they could not rotate as they should.
Is there a way to find out what the correct length should be?
Also Brian,
There was no rotators on the valves. Is this right? or has an older head been put on, Or has someone just plain lost the rotators at some time?
the ends of the valves are in good order, and the valves and seats were vey good, with no steps or signs of wear, and only light carbon spotting.
They ground in in no time.
So, have we a dog's breakfast here, or what?
Thank you again for your time,
Richard.
I will check the things you mention.
Re. the pushrods, I "Think" they are correct length.
By this I mean the replacements I got appear to match the old ones, but if the old ones were right I do not know. they seem to travel OK and the clearance seems right, but need adjusting again hot when it's run a while.
When I took the old ones out, there was some difference in length, but as they were bent, didn't think about it too much.
One or two had uneven wear on the ball, as with being bent they could not rotate as they should.
Is there a way to find out what the correct length should be?
Also Brian,
There was no rotators on the valves. Is this right? or has an older head been put on, Or has someone just plain lost the rotators at some time?
the ends of the valves are in good order, and the valves and seats were vey good, with no steps or signs of wear, and only light carbon spotting.
They ground in in no time.
So, have we a dog's breakfast here, or what?
Thank you again for your time,
Richard.
Richard,
If all the rods are the same length you should be OK but you definitely should have rotator caps. Originally in 1952, the tractors came out without them but within a few months exhaust valve failure caused Fords to retro fit all tractors with them.
Something completely off the wall. Check that she is not 180 degrees out on the pump timing. You say it won't run with the marks in line but will run poorly if you put the timing way out. I am probably wrong about this but it may be worth a look as the timing marks on the flywheel line up on No.1 and No. 4.
The clamp bolt on the coupling drive shaft should be towards the underneath of the shaft not towards the top side.
If all the rods are the same length you should be OK but you definitely should have rotator caps. Originally in 1952, the tractors came out without them but within a few months exhaust valve failure caused Fords to retro fit all tractors with them.
Something completely off the wall. Check that she is not 180 degrees out on the pump timing. You say it won't run with the marks in line but will run poorly if you put the timing way out. I am probably wrong about this but it may be worth a look as the timing marks on the flywheel line up on No.1 and No. 4.
The clamp bolt on the coupling drive shaft should be towards the underneath of the shaft not towards the top side.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian