Howdy from Wyomiles with Super Major

[Wyomiles]

Hello all, I am so glad to have found this forum, I have been reading some of the posts and have already learned a lot about the tractor I just bought. I was told that it was a Ford 5000 but now see that it is a Super Major. If I am not confused they are two different tractors right? I will post a picture when I get more time. I am in Denver Colorado, anybody else nearby ? Well just wanted to check in. Miles

[BearCreek Majors]

If it is a 1964 it should have had a FORD 5000 decal on the hood as well as the Super Major emblem up front. 1965 would then be a 5000 and no longer a Fordson. Post some pic's!

Pat

[Wyomiles]

OK I am going to try to show some pictures . Hope it works !

[Brian]

Just done a little editing, hope you do not mind. On the banner above is "img" and "/img" Click this once before you add your image code and again at the end of each code before adding the next one. If you use Photobucket it does this for you automatically.

[Dandy Dave]

Welcome aboard Matey! These old Fordsons be Fine land ships. But in the water me laddy, they not be floating so well,... unless that is, you build a hull around them! Arrrhhhhh harr har harrr har.

Nice looking 5000, Looks original. Sweet. Dandy Dave!

[frode]

Nice backhoe! Can you show us some pics of how the backhoe is attached to the rear of the tractor? looks like what we call a "claw mount" in Norway.

Regards,
Frode

[BearCreek Majors]

Not a bad looking unit! I believe the back hoe is a Sherman, not sure of the loader but they normally came as a set. The Super Major should have a mechanical governor on it, and is probably the last year or two of production. I have an almost identical tractor less the hoe and loader.

Pat

[Wyomiles]

Thanks for all of the replies ! As you can see the front grill says super major, the hood is shown in the bucket and you can see a ford 5000 sticker on it so I am still a little confused about that part. Is it a super major that was sold in the US as a ford 5000. Or are they two different tractors. I guess I am wondering which manuals to buy .
The loader is a ford and the backhoe is a Sherman. The hoses are in pretty bad shape so I will be replacing them. Currently at the tractor dealership for oil change and hose changes. Sure is taking a long time. Guess I should have been doing it myself.
I still have everything to learn about operation and maintenence of this tractor so any advise is always welcome. I am slowly wading through all of the information here.
Thanks for editing Brian, I wasn't sure if you wanted the big pictures taking up space.
I will try to get a couple more pictures posted , lots of overtime at work lately so it may be a while.

[Brian]

Same tractor, different name, New Performance Super Major here, Ford 5000 there.

When the "X" Series 5000 came out in 1964 it was badged "Ford Super Major 5000" here.

[Wyomiles]

OK so if I buy the operating and maintenence manuals for the ford 5000 I should be good to go?

[BearCreek Majors]

Yes it is a little confusing, you just need to get parts and manuals for the Super Major. once in a while you will find your parts listed for a 5000, but most venders list them as Super Major parts as this is what the tractor actualy is. In reality the only thing that is 5000 about it is the decal on the side of the hood.

Pat

[Wyomiles]

OK thanks Pat.

Frode here are a couple of shots of how the backhoe is attached.





(hope I did that correctly Brian ? )

[Brian]

Not quite

If you click on "Edit" on the top of your message you will see what you have written and the "image code" of your pictures. You will see I have added {img} to the front of the code and {img} with an / to the end. These make the picture appear as if by magic!

[Wyomiles]

Thanks again Brian, I thought I had done that but you must have the golden touch !

[Wyomiles]

By the way when should I replace the tires? How do I tell when they are to bad to go on?

[Brian]

I just typed it in as it was missing in your codes.

Those tyres look to have many years left, even with the tread worn down, as long as there are no major cuts or cracking, they will work on a loader/backhoe. If you are going to use her for field work, then good tread is important but even for some pasture work worn tread can be desirable. Depends on the slopes etc that you encounter.

[frode]

Thank you for the pictures! Looks like the setup that was used over here

[Wyomiles]

And the guy I bought it from said the tires are filled with water and calcium? Is that right? Is that common? Does it need that? Can I drain it to take some weight off for hauling?

[Brian]

That would be normal, if you were using her without the back hoe to load, with that size of front bucket it might be a bit unstable, lifting the rear and loosing traction.

[Dandy Dave]

Calcium, a farmers dream, and a restorers night mare! It is great as long as the tubes are not leaking. If you see any sign of leakage, Repair it as soon as possible as it will rust the rims from the inside out. Most of the time you will see it start to leak around the valves. My opinion, If it starts to leak, I would replace both tubes, clean and repaint the insides of the rims, and I would not reload the tires. The back hoe has enough weight on the back end to shovel with the loader. I really can't see why you would ever take the backhoe off as you would then need to get 3 point hitch arms and other stuff for an attachment. It is easier to buy a second tractor for bush hogging and tractor work. I use my backhoe around the yard all the time. When you get it home, you will see how usefull it is having it ready to go all the time. Dandy Dave!

[Wyomiles]

Hello all. So I have had the tractor at a local shop for several weeks and they have finally got some work done on her. They cleaned the grime off of the engine, replaced a few hoses, changed oil and filters, and put in a new fuel filter. I still have a couple of hoses I think need to be changed out.
I was talking with one of the young mechanics and he showed me where the right rear axle seal was leaking and advised that I get that fixed. The guy I bought it from said he had been adding hydraulic fluid due to leaks. The mechanic told me that all of the hydralic system is basically connected and the fluid is stored and pumped out of the transmission area between the rear tires. Is that correct? I also noticed that the exhaust maninfold and riser pipe has rusted through so will get an estimate on that fix also. I asked him about the tires being filled with calcium and he pushed down on the valve stems and let air out but no water or anything came out so he did not think they have calcium in them. He thought that as long as the backhoe was on I shouldn't need it as Dave has mentioned. He said that I had a pretty strong tractor and should have a lot of fun running it once I get it all fixed up. Hopefully I will be moving some dirt by the end of August !

[Wyomiles]

Oh I forgot to ask about the two gauges that are on the "dashboard" under the steering wheel. They are both broken the one on the left looks like it has a temperature gauge and lights. Should I get these replaced? What are they? Do you think I have to replace the cable too.

Another question is about the compression lever ( not sure if that is the correct name) Should I always use it when starting the engine or is it just for cold weather?

[Brian]

Another question is about the compression lever ( not sure if that is the correct name) Should I always use it when starting the engine or is it just for cold weather?

No, No a thousand times NO.

It should only be used to turn the engine by hand. If you try to start using it you can damage the valve gear. I know a lit of people will say that they have always done it and never had a problem but I have had to sort out a few which did have.

[Dandy Dave]

Oh I forgot to ask about the two gauges that are on the "dashboard" under the steering wheel. They are both broken the one on the left looks like it has a temperature gauge and lights. Should I get these replaced? What are they? Do you think I have to replace the cable too.

The gages. The one on the left has lights for the charging, and oil pressure. and a gage for water temp. The one on the right is the hour, and RPM meter. The gages you can get repros. The left with engine vitals is most important. It will tell you if you have an oil pressure problem, the dynomo is not working, or if the engine is running to hot, or too cold for some reason. The one on the right, my repro failed with less than 200 hours on it. I'm not sure if it is the gage, or the drive at this moment. I have a feeling that it may be lack of lube in the repro drive, but I have as of yet to investagate. Dandy Dave!

The push button mounted to the dash is for a Clear Hooters horn. Any horn of less quality will work, but that is like putting a Robbins Horn on a Rolls Royce. Dandy Dave!

[Wyomiles]

Thanks Brian, so if you could help me out a little more, remember I really am a newbie when it comes to these tractors. Why / when would I turn the engine by hand? What does that mean?