Introduction and some questions.

[Robbie]

you have not posted a picture of the injection pump

You will also need to bleed both of the bleed screws on the pump, one at the front and the one in the picture.

Brian,

This is confusing me, I dont know much about these engines but it seems I did not take a picture of the fuel pump, but then you state I should bleed the one on the picture
Here is a picture of what i did and what I think is the fuel pump. (I think reading your replay that the real pump is somewhere inside the thing I call fuel pump)


Kind regards,

Rob.

[Brian]

Should have said injection pump, the bit which your rusty pipe goes into and has all the pipes coming out of the top. Under those pipes are two bleed screws. You need to bleed both of these.



I know your pump is not quite like this but the bleed screws are in the same place and are marked.

[Robbie]

Brian,

Thanks for the help and the picture, this realy made the difference! The tractor started and I was able to test all gears, Great to get it running Now I can go on to the next step and get te generator working because it does not charge the battery.

Again, many thanks for the input from everybody!

Kind regards,
Rob.

[Dandy Dave]

Glad to hear you have her running.

The Generator is actually an Alternator and not original to the tractor. Hard to tell fron the picture, but it looks like a Delco Remy Integral Alternator which is a very reliable unit and is used on a lot of equipment. The regulator is internal. Sometimes the Diode goes bad and causes it not to charge. It is best to take it off and have it serviced by your local auto electric rebuilders. A good shop will test the unit for free. These are also very affordable to fix or replace. These work best if you wire them with the side plug. One large wire comes off of the back. The side plug will have a large wire also that can be connected back to the terminal on the rear of the alternator. This link, in an automobile, (GM products in paticular,) was a piece of Fusable link wire. The other smaller wire should be wired into a small indicator light and then connected in the "Ign" terminal of the switch. When you turn on the switch, the light will light. When you start the tractor the light will go out when the System Charges, and will stay out as long as it is working. The small light actually excites the alternator and it will start charging at a much lower RPM than the one wire wired Alternators, which have to be revved quite high to get them to kick in. I would assume that your tractor battery is negative to ground, or Earth, with all the changes.

Rob, This is your mission should you decide to choose it. This message hopefully will not self destruct in at least 100 years.... Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

I took the alternator apart and noticed that one of the diodes had a loose terminal and I corected this, I was to much in a hurry and maybe to lazy to measure all the diodes, the coils had a low resistance but I did not measure against ground or zero so there can still be a short circuit. Also, if the diode was defect and caused the tin to melt then what I did will not fix it.

Ofcourse it did NOT work when I put it back

Something else I noticed is that all the wiring diagrams on the internet do have some sort of controll of the voltage output, I think the faster it turns, the higher the output. But on this tractor the rectified output goes straight to the battery, so it might be posible that the battery gets 15,16 or more volts?

Are there alternators that have all the electronics inside to deliver a save voltage, lets say 14V, what ever the speed of the alternator?

Regards,
Rob.

[Brian]

Alternators charge at the same rate whether they are turning fast or relatively slowly, that is why they are better than dynamos. They also sense the charge or power the system needs and only deliver when that is required so, once your battery is fully charged, you alternator reduces its out put to near zero, only delivering power when you turn on the lights (say).

Most alternators, I have found, deliver a minimum of 14.5 volts with some going up to 18 to 20 volts. That is why I design a voltage regulator into all my circuits. The battery acts as a sink to the voltage.

Most alternators are wired direct to the battery, some alternators have internal regulators.

[Dandy Dave]

If someone hooked up the battery in the wrong polarity only once , and it let the smoke out of the alternator, The diodes are dust. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

If someone hooked up the battery in the wrong polarity only once , and it let the smoke out of the alternator, The diodes are dust. Dandy Dave!

I dont know if this has happened before I got it but today I took if of and had a better look at the diodes, on at least two of them, there was a wire with a tiny ring on it that should connect to the diode but didnt. The coils seem to be ok but I gues its better to get a working alternator then replace the diodes and find something else not working.

I just have to find one that fits and when I type the number in google I get lots of alternatives. (9124476316)

Regards,
Rob.

[Dandy Dave]

I found this, your unit is a Bosch. The last Bosch in the list.

http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=B ... 0120489287

The Delcos can be had for around $30 US, and come in 4 different positions to make connections easier. The pulley is easily changed to a wide pulley to fit the Fordson fan belt. It is best to go to a rebuild shop if you have one local. If you perfer to keep the Bosch, You should beable to get a suitible replacment at your local Auto parts supplier. I'm not sure how that unit is wired without researching it. The few Bosch units I have run into over here have had an electronic regulator that is separate from the alternator. They should also take the old unit as a rebuildable core.

Fordson Major Tractors were originally positive ground/earth. With changing it, it would reverse the polarity to negetive Ground/ Earth, as all modern alternators are this way, unless changed by a rebuilder to a 6 volt positive ground, or such, for a special application like putting an alternator on an old car from the 1930's. or 40's. with 6 volt positive ground. Or, a Ford 9N,2N,8N, tractor that the owner wants to keep it 6 volt. Probably to much infomation. But better too much, than not enough and end up cooking something from the start.

Even putting the cables on the wrong way to jump a battery could burn out the electronic components. Dandy Dave!

[Robbie]

The Delcos can be had for around $30 US

Well, so far the lowest price I find is €75 thats $ 105 US... pfff Ill move to the US Would make my girfrien happy, she wants to move to Arizona where its nice and warm.
The tractor has been modified with a different engine and I think they switched polarity then. So the ground is negative in this case. It does not matter what kind of brand it is, just as long as it works.

Regards,
Rob.