Fordson Super Major repairs

[Jackzorr]

I have a Fordson Super Major (Engine Number: 08C982292). I need a new Crankshaft. However, I have been informed that to remove the old crankshaft, I need to remove the whole engine from the tractor, a major task, with my limited tools, and no possibility of taking it on the road. Is this correct? Looking at it, I wondered if it may not be possible to remove the crankshaft by first removing the radiator, then the fanbelt flywheel.

If I can get the crankshaft out, where might I source a new shaft and any necessary fittings/bearings/gaskets, etc? I live north of Aberdeen, in Scotland.

Hope someone can help.

Regards,

Jack Orr

[1962 model]

Hello,
Brand new crankshafts are available from Argiline or old 20 parts if you cannot find a second hand one.

Firstly what condition is your engine as it may be just as well to recondition the whole engine?

If you have a bad knocking noise in your engine it might be from a couple of different sources, as sometimes overfueling on one cylinder, or excessive carbon build up may cause this.
What are the symptoms of your problem?

It is important to realise that if the big ends are enlarged from excessive bearing wear that a total rebuild will be the most ecomomical way to solve your problems.

Talking of economise of scale the most ecomomical way ( in the long term )to repair your tractor if a major problem has occurred is to hire a agricultural mechanic to remove the engine and send it away for rebuilding, I am sure there will be places that can do this job for you. get the mechanic to refit the engine as well.

It is not possible to remove the crankshaft in the tractor for two main reasons

1.
The clutch needs to be split from the gearbox in a axial motion and not just droped down below the engine attatched to the crank.
Even with the bearing caps removed the crank cannot be moved forward enough to disconnect the clutch, anyway upside down it will be damed heavy!
2.
The crankshaft protrotrudes through the front mounting plate witch also prevents the crank from being lowered out from the bottom of the engine while still mounted in the side frames with the front plate in position.

The best option is to;
1.
Jack up the tractor, drain engine oil and remove the steering rod at the front plane arm and swing over and rest on the rear axle.
2.
Remove the front axle and A frame pins, take front axle away, then take away the front casting and side channels.
3.
Using a chain block suspend engine, undo bolts and remove from the gearbox by moving straight forward.
4.
lay engine on the side and remove the clutch, front cover, camshaft gears and front plate.
5.
remove sump and crankshaft.
6.
fit new bearings all round ( making shure all bearing caps go back on the same way and position they came off ) tighten all bolts to the correct torque, and while the front plate is off replace the bearings on the drive shaft for the oil pump and injection pump ( auxillary shaft ) as these bearings seem to wear quie a bit, be aware you may need to remove the oil pump to withdraw ( forward ) the Auxilliary shaft and remove the injection pump drive key. ( most people use side cutters for this )

Hope the rings are in reasonable order or this work will need to be done again when the rings wear out, or the liners corrode out?

Good luck from a an Australian Bell Clan decendant from the borders.

Mike Bell

[Dandy Dave]

One other thing that will need to be checked is, if the engine has been previously rebuilt and line bored, it may have oversize bearing shells. The oversize replacements are no longer made, and subsequently, very difficult to obtain. If you know how to read a micrometer, you can see for yourself the diameter of the outer main beraring shells and tell if they are standard or not. Also, if the crank has been previously ground, the inside diameter of the bearing shells may be under size by .010, .020, or even .040, Thousandths of an inch. The reason the engines were line bored in this manor was to keep the timing gears in correct spacing and mesh. If you have no idea of what I'm saying here, you can learn, but, you will need an expert with the proper tools to work with you for the measurements. Also, you will need a toque wrench to get things back together. Dandy Dave!

[Jackzorr]

Thank you for the two very helpful replies I received for my original enquiry.

Does anyone know of a Fordson repair man (or woman) in the vicinity of North East Scotland (Aberdeenshire)? If so, I would appreciate their address, telephone number or email address. Thank you.

Jack Orr