my power major rebuild

[j.myatt]

hey guys been rebuilding my major the clutch was sticky so it was time for a full rebuild here are some photos

anyone ever seen a diff center do this?

[henk]

Never seen something like this. Seems the lock wire did not do its job. Maybe after a repair the bold were not fastened well enough.

[Dandy Dave]

Ouch! I would agree that the the bolts were improperly torqued. Dandy Dave!

[j.myatt]

took the sump off today to "reseal" it then found that alot of carbon has been building up in the sump it was actualy like a carbon honeycomb

is it worth homing the sleaves and reringing it or full rebuild? the sleaves "feel" smooth no scoring

[Kim]

Your oil pump will certainly "breath" easier without all that crap and goo removed from the screen!

[Brian]

Sleeves can develop "metal worm". If you are going that far into the engine, I would at least pull them and check them and the block out. Be sad to do all that work then find water in the sump after a few weeks. Honing and rings will be fine as long as the ring grooves are all OK.

Looking at that oil strainer, the crank and bearings will need careful inspection.

[Gman]

Hello to all. Hope all projects are going great. Seeing the sump screen above and with my Power Major sitting so long before I got her running again, with the help of this forum, I was thinking my sump screen could use a good cleaning. Cool weather is coming in and I will be starting to use her again. Can you use something to flush the sump like you do the rear end or do you have to remove what I call the oil pan to clean the screen. If oil pan has to be removed, can this be done with out removing front end of tractor. She is a 1959 PM. Thanks for all advice and good luck to all.

[Brian]

You will have to remove the "A" frame and track rod then the sump (oil pan) will come down with a little wriggle. It is heavy so we used to hold it in place with a couple of open ended spanners on the block and sump flanges. one either side, whilst we fitted the first studs back.

The other way that works if you have some good blocks or stands is to jack her up and take the axle and "A" frame pins out, disconnect the drag link and wheel the axle away.

[Gman]

Thanks Brian, as always your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Years back before she was parked I never had the oil in the crankcase breather oil cup, the breather in front of the diesel pump, blow out whereas when I got her running again it does. With her just sitting those years didn't think anything would change that would cause this. Could the screen being in need of cleaning cause this? Thanks again.

[Pavel]

Do my eyes deceive me, or does that beautifully finished mudguard have a [park/side] lamp with the red lens facing the front?
Pavel

[Brian]

It may not be there at the moment, Mike is away.

This site and the manuals pages have been under attack for some months now and the information on the manuals server keeps being deleted by unknown forces. Until Mike gets back and has time to strengthen the defence, we can only reload and try again.

You would not believe that people would do such things. We have had nearly 1000 "funnies" register in the past month and it takes JC, Kiwi Kev and me all our time to keep it clear and running. Oscar and Mike are away on business.

[j.myatt]

Do my eyes deceive me, or does that beautifully finished mudguard have a [park/side] lamp with the red lens facing the front?
Pavel

the lens is clear ive only got the one the other side is missing