Fordson New Major aka "parsons pike" charging issue

[eightyape]

Hi there Fordson fans!
I have recently bought a beast of a boat with a beast of an engine- a fordson no less, 4 cylinder, simms pump etc all the same as the tractors-
now the chap i bought it off hooked up an alternator to her- all well and good but the thing drops charge periodically- he assures me the alternator is fine- somehow im not sure as he smokes a lot and talks to his boat rather too much.....
but i read here on the forum about putting a charging light or resistor in the circuit?
do i need this with all alternators?
not sure what type ive got- looks like a standard lucas type(with an interesting bracket adjust system bodged up by the aforementioned crazy sailor) from what i see it charges initially ok but then the charge begins to spike up and down-
im going to rip it off and buy another alternator that fits the on to block properly(maybe fit the other one as a dual alternator setup for traction battery system and hybrid electric drive for silent running on the rivers!- question is?
which one?
is there a kit that fits readymade?(for a dual alternator high power 120amp and up setup maybe?)
so i dont have to machine up some mounts and a custom adjuster?
your wisdom in these matters would be much appreciated.
many thanks.
p.s.was going to swap it out for something a bit smaller but its one hell of an install with a propellor the size of a car wheel!
and i found out i could run it on chip fat!
poop! poop!

[Dandy Dave]

Sounds like the internal regulator may be bad. You need to test it for output with a multimeter. If it spikes to 16 volts for a while, and then drops off to 12, it is a faulty regulator. It should put out about 13.5 to 14.5. Aarrrrhhhhhhhhhh Matey. She be a Fordson that floats on water. Most Fordsons sink around mud and water. How about some photos. Dandy Dave!

[Pavel]

It would be helpful to know the model/type of Lucas alternator you have i.e. 11AC [with external regulator box], 16ACR [internal regulator] etc. This can be found on the body and the rear plastic cover. Also positive or negative earth.
In general it could be one, or more, of 3 things on their last legs -- the regulator/control unit [mounted on the brush pack] can be bought as a seperate unit and is easily fitted [no soldering required]; the brushes [brush pack] which again can also be replaced easily [no soldering]; the slip rings [that the brushes contact], which wear, become ridged and grotty. If not badly grooved a clean-up with 800 wet & dry [used dry] and a wipe over with metho. usually does the trick.
The diode pack [internal rectifier] can be replaced, but are expensive.
It may be worth mentioning that alternators fitted to marine engines usually have a smaller diameter pully so as to give a greater charging rate at the lower engine revs most boats seem to operate at.
Pavel

[eightyape]

right then had an investigate... the alternator is a YV 1925 12V- found out what the issue was- tis a faulty regulator alright- n0ot sure if its the diodes but the brushes one side are worn becasue the installation monkey bodged it and left it on the pulley at an angle- hence the request about a fixing bracket.
i need a new block most probably - seawater is not kind and a source for gaskets parts etc etc if anyone can help?
will try and get some photos of the install....
anyone sell an alternator bolt -on kit? i want to use the one i have as part of a dual unit setup but the brackets and adjuster are missing and its going to be a pain to machine some up,
soon be ploughing through the waves and other bad tractor based puns....

[Dandy Dave]

If it were up to me, I would put one of these on it. http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... remy.shtml These are a very reliable unit, and also very affordable. The regulator is internal so there is no bracket to contend with. Easy to hook up. Dandy Dave!

[Pavel]

The YV 1925 alternator is a Paris-Rhone make -- fitted to many Peugeot & Citroen cars.
My FSM has a Lucas 16 ACR alt. fitted which has been faultless for the last 4 years [after I overhauled it]; but then the Fordson doesn't make many demands on it. My Triumph 2500 has a Bosch 65amp fitted which, after re-conditioning, has been reliable for the last 9 years. Of the 2 makes I prefer a Bosch unit; they are robust, parts are readily available in almost any country and are reasonably priced. As well, the mounting system on the Bosch, useing front and rear end brackets, lends itself to more adaptable fitment. However, I agree with Dandy Dave that Delco Remy products have an excellent reputation although I've never had cause to pull them apart.
Some points to ponder and guide.
Just as do generators, alternators must have a provision for a strap to allow fitment and adjustment of the driving/fan belt. Be aware that end plates can have the ears for their fitment at either 10, 12 or 2 o'clock. A good place to find one [a strap] is a car wreckers.
Most older Bosch units [as opposed to the modern liquid cooled ones] have only 2 wires -- the thin one [say 10amp] is connected to the ignition switch and usually has a red charging light in circuit [but is not essential]. The thick one is wired directly to the battry positive [with a negative earth system]. It is essential that this wire is uprated to cope with the maximum output of the alternator. Some units have a third [sensing] wire which require additional electronics and are best left alone.
Whilst most units run clock-wise, there are some that are anti-clock. The angle of the fan blades will show which -- viewed from the front they are angled in the direction of rotation. It's worth mentioning that alternators produce heat -- a 60 amp one the equivalent of 3 100w bulbs.
As to driving your boat in silent electrical mode: You would need a battery bank to do that and to charge them would require a 12volt truck/lorry alternator of 100 plus amps. which are big and heavy. Such an output would increase the pumping losses of what is a relatively small horse power engine.
Pavel

[Pavel]

Sorry, forgot.
The symptoms you describe of its charging rate being up and down indicates that it is a 3 wire unit. Without the 3rd sensing wire connected it will always do that.
Pavel