The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

i have the crank out and it's a mess , all the bearings are scored i hope its not too bad and will need a re grind , don't know if it's been ground before how can you tell? and how do i go about checking the camshaft for wear?

033 by shergar3, on Flickr

022 by shergar3, on Flickr

028 by shergar3, on Flickr
i hope the pistons are ok

015 by shergar3, on Flickr
all the shells look like this or worse

011 by shergar3, on Flickr
will need some new tappets as well

044 by shergar3, on Flickr
may be need new liners a bit rusty at the bottom also no 1 liner on closer inspection has a small ridge at top front

042 by shergar3, on Flickr
what do you guys think
for more pictures look on here http://www.flickr.com/photos/49293148@N07/

wayne

Hi Wayne,

The former owner of your tractor should be charged with extreme cruelty and torture of defenceless tractors It realy looks like it has been run for years without an oil change and what oil was there was probably mostly kero as well. Even from the photo I can spot at least 10 thou or more wear on the crank. Even if you measure it with a micrometer you would have to add another 10 thou under size just for the grooves. Still if it has not been ground before it should still be able to be reground 20 or 30 thou under size, but depending on the price of machining in your part of the world a new crank may be the better option given that they are the same as a diesel crank.

The cam does not look too bad in the photo, but it is hard to tell if the top of the lobes are at their full height. My guess is that they will be worn as the lifters are shot. Fortunately new parts should be easy to get and would probably be cheaper than regrinding.

Maybe not what you wanted to hear in terms of expense, but stick with it and do the job right and you will never regret it. There is nothing like the sound of an engine you just brought back to life. My first one was over 36 years ago and I have been addicted bringing back the dead ever since.

Regards, Frank.

P.S. Now back to my daily fix, time to strip all the oil and fuel lines off the Perkins P6TA for the hot tank and figure out what to do about the rusted camshaft

Hi Wayne

Looks like we'll both be searching for a source of new pistons, liners and rings! - the internals of my engine aren't as bad as yours, but are worn enough to need replacing. If you find a supplier, I'd be grateful for some contact details and if I find one, I'll put the name etc on this Board. I think we'll be struggling a bit - all the rebuild kits I've seen are for diesels only.

Maybe some of our Stateside friends could help?

Seems to be more Petrol models in Canada than here. I do not believe I have ever seen a petrol major here in my area. Dandy Dave!

aye up bob

was hoping to re-use my pistons as i will probably not find any better ones , rings and liners should be same as the diesel , my next job is get the crank , cam and head sorted it may still be beyond repair, not done out to the old girl recently been busy with other jobs.
if i find a source of parts i will let you know
Wayne

Dandy Dave wrote:Seems to be more Petrol models in Canada than here. I do not believe I have ever seen a petrol major here in my area. Dandy Dave!

Yes there are a lot of these up here north of the 49th in Canada. I was offered one in a wreckers last Thursday bit rough won't turn over and the carbs missing still needs a $1000 for it too. found a runner with loader and that guy wants $6000 I cant get that for a full rebuilt diesel super with live pto and loader on . I think it's getting hard to find the good ones now. I would like one to finish off my set but the runners are making way to much and like you guys are finding Im worried about parts for it .
If i hear of any sources for new parts out here I will let you guys know
Regards Robert

hello all

looking like i'am looking for another rocker shaft

068 by shergar3, on Flickr

also while cleaning up the pistons found out that one was different

072 by shergar3, on Flickr
don't know if they change the design of the kero pistons in production may be brian could shed some light on this , also the locking nuts on that piston are different too

075 by shergar3, on Flickr

wayne

I know this is an old post, but thought I would see if someone might know the answer to this question...I have rebuilt a 1952 Petrol engine and purchased a new oil pump, which is now nicely installed. Just in the process of re-installing the rebuilt distributor and have found that the new oil pump does not have the offset "D" slot in the top of the driven gear, so the distributo will not fit into the slot It looks like the slot in the oil pump drive gear is centred on the shaft. If I was to get a new drive piece machined for the bottom of the distributor shaft to fit into to new oil pump gear, is there any other reason not to use the new oil pump that I should know about? I did not check the condition of the old pump, just decided to put a new one in after 71 years of use...

I really don't want to go through the hassle of pulling out the new oil pump now that everything is bolted back together and ready to go except for the distributor....

Thanks

Bob

Unfortunately you've just come across yet another case of poor repro parts. See what the original pump is like, as it might still be better (Grani fond some new ones in very poor condition). In any case you'll need to either use the original drive gear or cut a new groove in the correct location on the new gear. Unfortunately the sump will need to come off again for this.
Sandy

Thanks Sandy. I am looking into machining a piece to get the distributor lined up with the gear slot as opposed to using the old pump. Is the drive gear on the top pf the oil pump shaft just pressed on? Wonder how to get the drive gear off the pump shaft?

Merry Christmas!

Bob

The gear is pressed on, but the pump needs to be off and open for this to set the clearances specified on reassembly.
Sandy

I ended up getting a piece machined to fit the new oil pump. It is probably the best machined part on the whole tractor now . Fits perfectly, so I am hoping to start the engine next weekend

Happy New Year

Bob

Good luck with your start. Glad you managed to fix that.
Sandy

Well I got the old girl running again, after replacing my new carburator float and needle with the old one! The new one flooded the engine badly. Now I am wondering if I can install the Agriline Tachometer/Hour meter on my 52 engine? Does anyone know if this can be installed into the casting next to the distributor drive? It looks like it is fastened with two bolts in the parts manual and in the Agriline image, but my engine block has a large nut, it does not have the two bolt holes as shown in the parts book...



Bob

Great that you're running again. Unfortunately yours is too early for that, as it's only when the large threaded plug was replaced (in 53) that the hour counter became available, the tachometer was offered a bit later. You might be able to fix something up, but it could be quite difficult.
Sandy

Hi Sandy:

Thanks for that info. Is the gearing correct to mate the speedo/hour meter to the auxiliary shaft gear (I assume it is the same)? Some kind of an adapter plate could work with a large threaded portion to fit into the hole and align with the drive gear possibly. Otherwise drilling and tapping two holes in the casting might be an option. Any idea of the spacing between the two bolts on the newer design? If you have an hour meter on yours, could you measure that spacing?

Best regards,

Bob

The gear ratio is the same, I like the idea of an adaptor but don't start on it till you have the angle drive to check everything fits nicely. I'll try to get you some measurements but it's not easy when everything is together so they might not be as accurate as they really should be.
Sandy

Thanks Sandy. Another question, my new copper cylinder head gasket seems to be leaking some coolant slightly, and I recall reading something about the copper head gaskets being prone to that vs the composite ones. I now have about 1.5 hours on the engine and will be re-torquing the head tomorrow, so that might solve the issue. I must say the re-built engine is so quiet, all you really hear now is the fan noise, now rattling like the engine did before . Oil pressure is about 30-35 psi when hot, so all good. Seals in the transmission seem to be holding, so not leaking into the rear axle. In fact, most of the leaky parts are not leaking anymore! I will try to post a video...

Bob

Sounds good your story. Look forward to a video.

I would not put a tacho on the tractor in your case. Keep it original and you’ve a nice story to tell why it’s impossible.

All sounds good. You will need to retorque the head and that should help stop the leaking, but I know what you mean about it being irritating.
I wouldn't want a tachometer either.
Sandy

You could always fit an electronic aftermarket tacho if you need to know your rpm, easy to remove with no modification to the.original tractor

I am actually more interested in an hour meter, I will probably install an electronic tach. I have tried a cheap electronic hour meter, but it is not consistent, so maybe I'll look for an electronic tach with a built in hour meter....

Cheers

Bob

Found this one on amazon - ign on counting, ign off not counting.
Jayron Mechanical maintenance Hour Meter AC/DC 8-80V analog clock

Thanks. I'm looking at this one as a combination Tach and Hour meter. ELING 85mm Universal Auto Marine Tachometer Gauge 0-3000RPM with Adjustable Hour Meter and RPM Alarm with Red or Yellow Backlight