The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Happy New year to everyone......... I have a question about my NP Super Major top cover, Can anyone tell me if the Hydrualic return pipe should sit flush with the top of the casting or about 15mm lower as shown in the picture?? Also i know it has an o ring in the groove but does it also have one that sits on top?

IMG_0198 by fixersteve, on Flickr

Hi Steve

Pipe should be flush with casting. Two o rings. The second photo shows you how the upper o ring seals against the lid.

Looks like your pipe has a dink in it. Did it get clobbered to cause it to sit so low?

Best

Adrian

Steve

Don't be confused by the high position of the feed pipe on my tractor. The first time I raised the lid, I didn't raise it squarely and nipped the feed pipe so that it was stretched. I secured the two collets (not present in this photo) with PTFE tape to keep them in position when lowering the lid back into place.

Best

Adrian

Cheers for that adrian, Not sure why my pipe is sitting low. I dont rememember if it was like that when i lifted the lift or not.

Thanks

Steve

Thanks Adrian! I have repositioned my return pipe so that it sits flush with the casting. It looks like the pipe has had a hard life and showing signs of being gas welded in its life.
Just waiting for a wheel bearing to come from Agriline and then i can put the top cover back on. Anything else you would recommend doing before it goes back on??

Cheer
Steve

Hi Steve

Looks like you've done all that needs doing in the rear axle. As for the lid, the draft control mechanism may need some adjusting or refurbishing, depending on what kind of life your tractor has led. Draft control on the NP Super is double acting, not single acting as on the Super ie the plough is not just lifted automatically if the top link experiences compression, but is also lowered if the top link experiences a stretching force. A (crude!) way of testing these is to use a crow bar on the top link bracket to replicate these forces - the lift arms should raise or lower accordingly when you apply leverage. However, while you have the lid off, the proper measurements and adjustments can be made on the linkages found inside the lid to ensure proper functioning in position and Qualicontrol.

I am lucky enough to have access to a local expert who worked on Majors during the sixties. Brian is semi-retired and works one day a week for Ernest Doe in Marlesford, Suffolk. Brian made all of the adjustments and refurbed a couple of pins that had worn - the knock-off pin was one. For this reason I have no first-hand experience of doing this. However, the necessary info, tolerances, etc are available in the official repair manual, though you do need a spacer tool made specially for the job, which Brian has and I don't. It's only a question of how wide the tool is though, so replicating would be straightforward. If you need me to, I'll try and get Brian to let me have this info, though he may think I'm being a bit cheeky!

Best

Adrian

Thanks Adrian, I think my tractor has spent most of its life yard scrapping as the rims are shot and so are the foot plates and wings. I havent actually used the tractor as I bought it as a non runner due to the rear crankseal being shot.
I think i will put the lid back on and give it some work to see what else might need doing.

Many thanks for you help.
Steve

Wise call, Steve. If it ain't broke, no point in trying to fix it! In any case, removing the hydraulic lid is not a big job, so opening her up again if you have to is a sensible approach. I took mine off a few times to get the various bits and pieces done. Knowing that, I didn't stick the gasket down with Wellseal or any other 'job done' sealant.

I admire your thorough approach to everything you have done. You have got a lovely machine and it will definitely repay your investment in time, money and sweat. What plans do you have for the Major? What kind of work will you put her to?

Best

Adrian

Thanks Adrian! Started painted her blue at the weekend and she is looking pretty smart! The plans at the moment are that I will being us her to turn hay in the summer and perhaps mow and bale if I can get the kit in time. Perhaps some local ploughing matches??? 3 furrow conventional ransomes??? I'm so excited about firing her up for the first time in a week or so. I've started painting her ford thousand series blue as that's what my book says is right for a 1963 super major.

I pull this with mine. Match made in heaven. Pulls it well on really heavy land and it positively sails along on lighter land. Never done match ploughing so I don't know what plough you'd need for that. But if your draft control is working well, and you want to get a field ploughed pdq, I can recommend the 2 furrow reversible.

Best

Adrian

Once I'd rebuilt the engine and gearbox I put her to work on a subsoiling plough to bed the engine in. This made the engine bellow! But it loved it. The engine was filled with Morris Golden Film running in oil. Did a world of good.

Best

Adrian

Steve

Forgot to mention that you could really do with front weights, especially for ploughing on heavy land. I found that when the Qualitrol tried to lift the plough in a tough spot, instead of the plough raising, the nose of the tractor reared up instead. With fronts weights this problem disappeared and she sailed along.

Best

Adrian

Cheers for that adrian, I did think about a reverisble plough as I used to use a 4 furrow lemkin behind a 150HP massey when i was doing my apprentiship. Wasnt sure if a 2 furrow reverisble would be to heavy for her. Do you know what a super will lift on the backend? Mine has got cast wheels on the front for some reason, so i imagine that will add some weight to the front end. Will take some more pictures later if i remember.

Hi Steve

Your tractor will pick up the TSR102 with ease. Even embedded in hard ground the hydraulics will raise it, though ideally as you will know you raise the plough as you move. Couple of photos below with a friend's plough attached.

Your cast iron wheels will be slightly heavier than the standard fitment, which are 19" steel rims with cast iron wheel weights. I can put you in touch with someone who has the steel rims and corresponding hubs if you are interested. Not sure if he has the wheel weights but they turn up on eBay.

Best

Adrian

If you could find out how much he would want for the wheels and hubs that would be great. Need to spend abit of money soon on new wings, nose cone and perhaps a new rad if the one ive got leaks. Went to a local company to see if they could recore it but they couldnt do it for any less than i can get a new one.

I'll ask.

Re your rad, I'd go for the recore option. That way you keep the original header and lower tanks and the side frames and brackets. If they know their stuff, a re-cored rad is effectively a new rad.

Best

Adrian

As promised adrian some pictures of her so far.........

IMG_0207 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0208 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0212 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0213 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0214 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0216 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0219 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0224 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0226 by fixersteve, on Flickr

Looking good!

Best

Adrian

Thanks adrian, Feel like im getting some where now.

Hi Steve

You most certainly are getting somewhere. You have been extremely thorough. I'm sure the tractor now feels 'yours' because you have put so much of yourself into it. Man and machine will soon be working hard together cutting and baling hay. I can guarantee you'll have a broad smile on your face when doing it!

Re the steel wheels, unfortunately they were sold. Keep a look out on eBay. They do come up.

Best

Adrian

Ah no worries adrian, Thanks for asking though. Did abit more work today...



IMG_0228 by fixersteve, on Flickr

IMG_0227 by fixersteve, on Flickr