After a bit of fiddling with the pump coupling ive got my engine running without smoke or injection knock, which is good. However the starter doesnt seem to turn the engine over very fast when the engine is cold.
I bought a new battery for it about a year ago, which is 100ah, and 800cca, which should be big enough shouldnt it? The only thing thats a bit strange, is when the starter is turning the engine over, its only got 9.8v to it and not 12v. The voltage at the battery is 10.1v when its turning it over, and when resting the battery voltage is 12.6v, does it sound like its got a dud battery? I have tried charging it over a few days, and it makes no difference.
Just wanted to see what you guys thought before I go and buy another one
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
"rustys"a bit like that the last few days when first starting but once run starts instantly haven't got round to wireing yet so there's nothing going back in the battery i didn't know if it was a lazy starter
It could well be a lazy starter because it is the original one. Strange thing is, sometimes it turns over slowly, and stops completely, and then every now and then it will turn it over quite fast, and when it does that it starts straight up. The starter body does get hot, so I suppose the starter could be drawing too much juice, its just this when it sometimes turns over fast then other times it hardly moves at all
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
Hi
The voltages sound about right. Check the earth connection from the +ve battery terminal to the tractor body for tightness. Another check is to connect a hefty jump lead from the battery earth terminal to a screw/bolthead fixing the starter motor to the flywheel housing and see whether the starter performance improves. ( Leave the current earth lead on). If it does, then it is an earthing problem.
You said you had been sorting out the FIP coupling, if the timing is out, you could get these varying starter cranking speeds.
Loosen the starter brush cover and see a. How low down the brushes are in their holders and b. How much crud there is in there. Worn brushes and lots of crud indicate a starter refurb is due.
Sounds like a lazy starter or poor connections. I would start with checking and cleaning ALL connections between starter and battery. If that doesn't improve matters, check the starter.
Since you obviously have a voltmeter, have someone operate the starter motor whilst you connect the probes between the starter body and the earth terminal of the battery. Any reading above a volt or two indicates a bad earth system.
If reading is OK, suspect starter motor problem ie brushes and commutator.
Pavel
I did replace the main earth wire a while back with a huge wire thats connects to one of the bolts that holds the starter on, so the earth is as good as its going to get. Could the solenoid be playing up?
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
I would not suspect the solenoid at this point. If it was iffy, you would have no power at all to the starter, or at best, a clicking noise. Check all connections first,"CLEAN, BRIGHT AND TIGHT!" to quote a venerable member of another forum. After that, check the starter. Always start with the easy stuff, chances are you'll come out ahead.
Hi Nick, I with Timeee on this one, Get the brush cover band off and look all four brushes over good, you may find a broken spring on one of them. If the starter checks out good you can probably bet on a bad connection in the system somewhere.
Having checked the earth circuit is OK, check the live circuit. With volt meter connected between batt. live and the starter live terminal the voltage drop should be no more than 1/2 a volt when operated. Any more suspect brushes and commutator.
The relay switch [the solenoid under the rubber gaiter] is also worth checking as the wires could be loose or corroded. The relay switch is also adjustable for correct operating lever contact.
Pavel
Nick , can you try another battery which is known to be good?
I don`t think 12.6v is all that good if fully charged, 13.2v - 13.4v would be better. Dave
1960 Power Major, 1975 International 475 - well no ones perfect.
I was thinking the same thing aswell, so Ive bought a better battery, its 120ah, 1000cca, and fits much better because its not quite as long but much higher - more like the original two 6volts would have been.
The charged voltage of this one is 13.6v, so I will put it on and see what happens before I go too far.
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
All sorted now! It was a faulty starter motor. I bought a re-conditioned one off of ebay for £150, which i thought was pretty good! Put it on, and it starts instantly now, turns over very fast and is original, so no nasty chinese immitations
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
That's good to hear Nick, glad you sorted that out. I would now rebuild the old starter and keep it for a spare or sell it on eBay and your money back for the new one.
