The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

good morning everyone, hope you are all well,

progress on my engine has been steady lately as been off with 'man flu' the worse flu there is ive got to the stage of the timming gears now and would apprecaite it if some of you guys would take a glance over some pictures to make sure everything is in order




that is the locking tabs i made up, should do the job?


timming all lined up hopefully? when all three marks are lined up, pistens 1=4 are at the top of the bore stroke, is that the correct way around or do i need to rotate another turn? i have yet to put the flywheel on as have no easy way to move engine around apart for lifting(and some cursing) so trying to keep it as light as possible for now


thats just a photo showing where pistens are when the marks are lined up


and help would be great at this crucial stage i dont want to get it wrong

kind regaurds dan.

Hello Dan,

When the timing marks are lined up you have nothing to worry about. I didn't last year on a 61 fsm rebuild and it runs like a dream.

Rgds

Hi Dan, the first pic, the bolt hole closest to the cam is mising the bolt, as long as you got it and the locking tab on there every thing else looks good to me. make sure everything is tight and you shold be ready to go.

Pat

many thanks, i thought i was worth running it past just to make sure

@pat well observed the bolt has now been fitted was waiting for some locite lol

cheers,

good evening all, im looking to run a few more things past you guys if i may

I have got my sump and front cover on now so im ready to attack the head now , is there anything important i should know at this stage about this task??? it says in the manual about running welworth seal on the shaded parrts of the head gasket, from experience what do you guys tend to use and is it even nessacary ?

i bought a upper gasket set from agriline which has a head gasket, its a compasite type with steel rings on the inside, is that the correct one for my engine, (Its a Mk 2 engine)?? Here are a few photos showing where im at

Many thanks dan.

A little sealer on the gasket’s probably not a bad idea, keep it away from the steel seal rings for the cylinder. Normally I put them together dry but I did have to pull the head back off of my Super Major and apply some sealer as I had antifreeze weeping out. Don’t forget the flat O ring that seals the oil passage to the rocker shaft.

Pat

I agree with Pat. Same thing happened on my NP Super - antifreeze seeping out front right corner where the serial number tab is. Brian on this site suggests the repro gaskets might be a smidgin too thin so I took out a mortgage and bought a genuine New Holland one. To be sure I also seated it with blue Hylomar. Worked perfectly.

Looks like you're making a great job of your engine - everything nice and clean.

As Pat says, be sure not to forget the O ring that sits in the depression halfway down the pushrod side of the block. Get the head nicely bolted down and then spot that O ring sitting on your bench, and you'll find out pdq if you know any swear words or not!

Best

Adrian

If I may suggest -- a spray can of Hylomar is best used on the cyl. head gasket rather than using the bottled or tube stuff. If left for 10, or 15 minutes before fitting the gasket, Hylomar set like a varnish which, on tightening the head down, gives much less chance of gasket distortion than when it is still wet and gooey. You can, as a precaution, still wipe over the sealing rings facing the cylinders before it sets -- but it is not really necessary to do so on the side facing the head.
It may be worth mentioning that some gasket manufacturers spray their head gaskets with a varnish, and these should not have a gasket cement applied to them.
Pavel

Hi
Not sure if you have already done this or not but will just check .
Have you cleaned all the threaded head bolt holes out in the top of the block face. over the years they can get full of carbon and stuff from guys removing and re fitting heads.
when the bolts are put in it compacts the stuff down and eventually the bolts hit and bottom out there. this causes the head not to torque down properly even when the torque wrench says it's right .
Most of the ones I have done have had 1/4'' in them but the worst had 1/2'' and the gasket was blown when i took it apart . I use'd to test the holes with a flat blade screw driver by putting it in the hole, pushing it down hard and twisting . then you could feel it drop through the junk and hit the bottom of the hole, it also came out on the blade when you pulled it out. If you find this then you need to get a 1/2" UNC tap and clean all the holes.
I usually do it as a matter of course now before re assembly when the blocks bare. This way the junk doesn't end up in the motor as 9 out of 10 have this problem anyway.
You might have to use a vacuum cleaner to suck it up as you're so far ahead with re assembly and don't want to be blowing it around with an air line to clean it away after thread cleaning the holes
Regards Robert

Good point Robert.

My farmer friend had this look on his face when I turned up with my vacuum cleaner to begin work on my engine!

Best

Adrian

exelent point thanks guys a man carry a vaccum cleaner i bet he thought he was seeing things haha

im real pleased with how its comming along starting to look abit more like an engine at last

ive already mananged to shear a bolt of on the front plate you can tell they were war time machines as the bolts are so much weaker by todays standards. i have heard some horror storys of people snapping head bolts off before not what you need at all!!

all the best dan

Hi Dan

I doubt you'll snap one of Major's head bolts. Tap two together and you'll hear the high tensile ring - they're made of good stuff. Not that modern ones aren't. A friend of mine works on heavy plant, and on some big installations they use threaded rods and nuts, and the torquing is done by grabbing the rod and stretching it before running the nut down. Once they let go of the rod, you'd never undo the nut without reversing the process.

Best

Adrian

hi all, my holymor has finally come, and head to block seal is also here

i have just looked at the head gasket and like mentioned earlyer in this thread, the gasket has some sort of lubricating substance on it. (would describe it as some sort of grease lol).

So does this mean i can not use holymor and just wack it stright on ? if so will it not leak if these repros aare abit on the thin side??

thanks again, hope to make it to tractor world at malvern showground (IN person that is haha)

Gasket manufacturers, such as Payen, stick little notes in some of their head/overhaul gasket sets stating that ' this head gasket is coated with a varnish and does not require a sealant to be applied" [or words to that effect]. The purpose of the application of any cement/goo/sealant/varnish is to ensure any minute surface imperfections are filled to ensure a gas, oil and water seal. In practice, properly, freshly, machined mating surfaces of the head and deck do not require a sealant as the outer material of the gasket is more than capable of occupying the machining marks left [measured in microns]. In fact they provide grip which stops the gasket moving whilst using the torque wrench. Any use of a gasket cement that is fluid whilst tightening down will act as a lubricant that can allow the gasket to move around the bolt/stud hole clearances or distort because of over tightening [I learnt this, to my cost, when overhauling an Alfa engine which also had wet liners]. As mentioned in an earlier post; using Hylomar is OK -- so long as it is allowed to stand and become tacky just like the gasket manufacturers varnish.
Since the deck of your engine block seems to be in first class condition I wouldn't think you'd have any problems -- provided the head surface is as well, of course.

Pavel

ace, thankyou pavel. Yeah the head has been skimmed so that surface is free from muck just need to clean the block up abit now