I am no expert on injection pumps, so no have no advice to offer on that subject. I took mine to a local fuel injection specialist who refurbished the pump. Cost around £200. More expense! I had the injectors done at the same time.
Can't remember if you said that you'd had your pump and injectors done or not.
Thanks Adrian, Ive tested the injectors on a bench tester that i barrowed from a friend, just wondering if i should check them again. Starting to get really frustrated now after doing all this work on the engine and for it still not be starting is annoying!
Yes, it is annoying, Steve, but don't get downhearted. The excellent work you have done means that you will soon have a tractor that you can rely on and enjoy for a long time to come.
If the timing is right, then it can now only be an injection issue - it cannot be anything else. Sorry to have to point you in the direction of incurring more expense, but in your situation I would take your pump and injectors along to your nearest fuel injection specialist (give them a ring to make sure they are familiar with the Simms Minimec) and have them refurbished. It's really the final piece in the jigsaw after all the amazing work you have done.
You've got a great tractor there. You'll be chuffed to bits when she fires up - and she will.
Well just taken my injectors to the local specialist and in their words they are "F*@KED" So should have them back to me rebuilt tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully this will sort out my starting issue. Fingers Crossed
Steve, jumping the gun a bit, but when she's purring like a puddycat (!), you'll have a wide range of fun things to do. With an engine putting out full power you can contemplate things like I did yesterday and which I didn't realise was possible. My farmer friend let me have a go with his 3 metre power harrow. I wasn't sure if the Major would pick it up, let alone drive it - it did both with ease. More photos to come.
If you sometimes wonder why you're doing what you're doing, this photo answers your question, I think!
[I'm only putting the above emoticon in the message because I've been dying to use it and haven't yet found a way! ]
Well Pavel, I think the problem was partly me not knowing what i was doing with the bench tester and the fact that the tester its self is as old if not older than the tractor and has a cracked pressure gauge etc....
But on a plus note ive just done a compression test on the engine and its coming up at 400psi on all 4
Adrian i am impressed with that power harrow, and there was me wondering if my super will cope with a 6ft cut drum mower.....
haha i tryed mine on the power harrow and was also surprised how well she took it One advatage though you dont need power steering when you have some weight on the back
Hi steve, i put a 10ft cultivator on the back of mine and it handled it really well, it goes to show these new tractors arent that much more advanced than ours!!
Did you test to see how far diesel is spraying out of your injector pipes?
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
Hi Nick, Sounds like ive under estimated what my little blue beauty will be able to do! I have done what you said and its going a fair distance. When I spoke to the chap at the pump shop he said that its more than likely its the injectors causing the non start issue. So fingers crossed this will sort her out. In the mean time ive been doing some work on the tin work.
thats a good sign that its sqirting that far, hopefully when you get your injectors back it will fire straight up, especially with that sort of compression
Oh yay, look, another seized bolt! Lets get a hammer.....and some kano.....and some cider!
Fixersteve wrote:
Adrian i am impressed with that power harrow, and there was me wondering if my super will cope with a 6ft cut drum mower.....
With Ease. I've used drum mowers a number of years back on 8N Fords, and TO 20 Fergusons with half or less HP. Your Super Major will play with it. Back in the day trading a Ford or Furguson for a New Major was like Trading a D-4 Caterpillar for a D-8 Caterpillar. Twice the size and HP. Dandy Dave!
Well just heard from the injection place and they are having problems with one of the injectors, so doesnt look like im going to have her running this weekend But on a plus note i ahve managed to get most of the tin work done.
Looking good Steve! it looks like the grills are a little rough, you may want to check back with Adrian in a few months, he should have a nice crop of them growing out in his field.
Pavel wrote:I suspect that this is not the best. or proper, place to air this subject -- but since it has been 'recommended' above, and in other posts -- here goes.
Flogging a newly reconditioned engine [new liners, p/rings, crank re-grind and bearings etc.] by giving it some seriously hard yakka straight after start-up is not the way to go!
Agreed, if you pussy-foot around under no-load conditions you are inviting cylinder bore glazing resulting in bad compressions and power output. However, all new moving parts will have machining marks that need to be bedded-in -- and that applies equally to the cross-hatched honing on cylinder walls.
I would suggest that for the first outing, probably a whole day, an engine is given moderate work and that the revs should be regularly changed from just under 50% max to just under 75%. The trick is to not allow the engine to maintain the same revs. whilst working for any length of time. This will let the p/rings load up against the cylinder walls and ensure both rings and liners obtain the desired matching surfaces. Bearings and journals will also bed in.
Then, after this initial process, an engine, especially a diesel, will be ready for serious hard work.
I would also suggest that after a week of work, the oil and filter should be changed to get rid of the microns of metal particles worn off during the process.
Pavel
Totally Agree. 50 to 75 % load would be ideal. Dandy Dave!
Just getting around to reading about you Fuel issue.
#1. Start from the source. Be sure you are getting a good flow from the fuel tank. I had a piece of leaf floating in my tank that would occasionally block the hole and stop the tractor. Drove me a little nuts finding it. I would get off, pump the hand pump a little, and it would start back up again and run fine for the rest of the day. It did it ever since the day I started using it. One day last year it would not start in the shed. And the hand pump had poor suction. I removed the fuel line and it had poor flow. I got some cans and a siphon hose and pulled the fuel out of the tank while moving the hose around the fuel tap area. When I was done and had the tank drained I ran the fuel though a paint filter in a funnel and found the little trouble making culpret in the paint filter. I have not had a probem with it since.
#2. Be sure you lift pump is moving enough fuel and it is comming out of the filter with some force. If not you may have some dirt under the check valves in the primary pump. With the amount of quality work you have already done, I would expect that you have changed the fuel filter and have checked that you have good flow from there to the injection pump.
#3. The injection pump. It could be that the rack is stuck or hanging up. You have a very clean work place to check it if you need to. You do push the exccessive fuel button while you are bleeding the system, right? Leaky, or worn injectors will not stop the pump from moving fuel. They may make it run like crap, but the injecton pump will move fuel if everything is working right. Also, be sure that the plungers are working correctly. If they are hung up, It will not move fuel. These things take only minutes to bleed when everything is right. If fuel is not comming out, there is a problem some where. Most likely a simple problem that is easily overlooked.
Start from the beginning and give it a go Matey. Dandy Dave!
after doing all this work on the engine and for it still not be starting is annoying!
]
][/url]
I was meant to be putting the tractor back together, not burying half of it in a field! 
