tight crank

[Dandy Dave]

And then there is also some engines that have been line bored and the insert shells are oversize. But this is another story. If your shells fit in the block and caps correctly, this should not be your problem. Also, the shells should be marked with the under size. 010, 020, 030... Ect. Dandy Dave!

[super6954]

And then there is also some engines that have been line bored and the insert shells are oversize. But this is another story. If your shells fit in the block and caps correctly, this should not be your problem. Also, the shells should be marked with the under size. 010, 020, 030... Ect. Dandy Dave!

Hi Dave
Yeah I hear ya on the line bored blocks, I had a 64, 5000 super here that had an X on the end of the serial number . That basically means run like the wind. If you see that on any major engine serial number code it means Ford stuffed up the block on production from my understanding . some are over and don't have the X marked outside. I found that the hard way too, the X's where stamped on the oil pan flange inside the block . There are no outer bore over size shells made any more, so you either scrap the block or deal with the gong show that Pat ( Bear Creek) found himself with shimming the block and cap, if you need to do the bearings .
Regards Robert

[Dandy Dave]

Yup. Another thought, If your over-size shells are re-usable and have not spun, you should beable to have them re-babbited at a specialty rebuild shop. It is done with old cars all the time. Dandy Dave!

[Mjg1705]

Hmmm I have turned the crank on the shells - but they are fine and would be reusable - btw as with regards to these X's I have them on the main caps and down one side of the block - bit I assume they are to inform of which way to put the caps ! -- but if it come back that I'm stuffed then don't know what I'm gunna do with major !! 6 cyl turbo conversion maybe ?! Would it still work as a fully functioning tractor ( pto/ hydraulics) if I fitted a 6cyl turbo engine in her - and what would be the easiest engine to use - as in easiest to bolt straight in ?! And it has to be turbo ! cargo engine ?!

[R W]

Have the crankshaft measured to make sure it has been correctly ground and matcing bearings supplied.
Recently I was supplied with bearings that were supposed to fit the ground crankshaft, they were 10thou out which resulted in very low oil pressure.
Also resulted in the engine having to be removed a second time. The person who sold me the first set of bearings was no longer with the company when contacted regarding the issue.
The bearings were replaced free of charge.

[BearCreek Majors]

Hmmmm, those X’s may be a key to your problems. Look at the backside of your old main bearing shells, look for a .015 stamped on any of them, if you find this your block has been line bored.
This may or may not explain why your crank is tight, but I would have to doubt that your crank is ground wrong, most of these shops have been in business for many years and know what they are doing, you may be better off asking for their help than laying blame.
The only way to find your problem is going to begin with measuring the parts, journals, bearings, and block. If all of this is correct, including the widths and radius on the journals, you may have a warped block, but unless the engine has been hot enough to glow in the dark, this probably is not the case.
The mains on the crank from the factory are 3.000 and I’ll just say +/-.001, (with a caliper you won’t get any more accurate than this anyway) If you want a quick and cheap way to check clearance get some plastigauge (I believe this is a brand name over here but most automotive parts stores should know what it is), and check all five bearings, also try it without the end thrust bearings installed to be able to determine that they are not the issue. If I was betting on the problem, I’d say some kid in a parts warehouse that doesn’t know a crankshaft from a unicorn sent someone the wrong parts and you are the one suffering because of it.
You may have to get a caliper and dig in, you may want to load the block, bearings and crank up and take it to the shop that ground the crank and have them take a look at it, but first look at all the old main shells to see if they are .015 oversize, this could open a whole different can of worms.

Let us know what you find.

Pat

[Mjg1705]

Thanks for that - I will see what they say - yes it is plastigauge over here aswell. All will be reveald tomorrow morning ! I will definatly check the shells ! Luckily I still have them ! But if it is a line bored block - what do I do with the shells I have ?! Get them "ground" or what would be the option - have the crank ground another few thou so that 20 oversized bearings will fit ?! Is that actually viable !

[Dandy Dave]

After going though all this I doubt this is you problem. If it was line bored 0.015 oversize, with standard shells, the crank would be too loose by around 1/64th of an inch. The only way it would be too tight is if you were supplied with NOS Bearings that are 0.015 over on the outside diameter, and the block was standard, but the shells are not. You would be a lucky dog and could sell the bearings quite easy if the are indeed unused NOS. Take note of Bear Creak Majors second on my first motion to get yourself a digital readout caliper. Take some photos of the bearings showing any, and all, numbers on them. Standard bearings are easy to get. Over-size ones are nealy impossible. Dandy Dave!

[Mjg1705]

Just roghly measured the crank with a non-digital verneir gauge - and the mains are 76mm or extreamly near ! So rightly that's 2.992 ! could this be the problem !! And also whatbis the original size of the big ends ?! just to see if these are correct or not !

[dexta roadless]

Standard main bearing is 3.0002-3,0010 and desired bearing inserts to journal clearance is 0,0025- 0,0040.

[dexta roadless]

Sorry I thought you asked for main.
Big end diameter standard is 2,4997-2,5005 with desired clearance at 0,002-0,0035 and max clearance is 0,005

[Mjg1705]

Thanks - just informing - been and looked at engine today - and the shells that were in it from new are fomoco STD e1addn6338- if that's any help-

[Mjg1705]

hi all- just to let everyone who got involved in the discussion- the cause of the fault is............ rear crank seal - according to the comany with my engine- the crank seel was so tight against the crank thats what jammed it ! even though it was greased. which wasnt my fault ! as it was done by someone else- so got the engine back today - so gunna do the seal and crank tomaz and then gunna put pistons in . thanks for all the help ! certainly infomation i can record ! will keep everyone up to date as i progress in my other thread

regards; mike

[tom lad]

hi
glad to read its sorted
ive been following with interest , was it a rope type seal then that was causing the probs ? what solved it ?

[Mjg1705]

Hi - thanks - yeh it was the rope seal type- well taking it out and spinning the crank without the seal - then placing it back ! apparently the seal should have been sat down in the ally piece a little more than it was - hence why it was so tight it wouldn't move ! - but thank got that's sorted ! Let's just hope I have to other "major" issues