Considering buying a 58 Major with a frozen diesel engine.

[Oughtsix]

My boss is moving and offered to sell me his 58 major for $200. I know he is pretty much giving it away to me at $200 but I am curious what it is going to take to get the engine turning over.

The tractor is in relatively good shape. The sheet metal appears to all be there and rust free (Central Oregon is very dry and we don't have much of a problem with rust). I have been searching this sight and reading through the manuals. It appears that all the major components are there. The front tires do hold air but are pretty well dry rotted. The rear tires appear to be up to what little work I would ever throw at them. I own 5 acres and would like to do a little rototilling, and maybe move some dirt around if I ever found a front end loader.

The last time he had the tractor running was 4 years ago or so when he was given the tractor by a friend. At that time they pulled the tractor around the field with a bigger tractor until the engine started turning. Then he was able to get the tractor running with a new battery.

Yesterday I took a battery over and could hear the starter engage but the engine wouldn't move a bit. There is some sort of coupling on the front of the crank shaft. It looks like a piece of 1.5" tubing with four half circular slots cut into it. It looks like it might be for some sort coupling to engage a manual crank. I tried turning this with a crow bar and could barely get it to move a quarter turn before I broke my bosses crow bar. Does any know the proper tool to engage this coupling with? We then pulled the tractor about 20 feet with my truck engaging and disengaging the clutch on the tractor. We couldn't get the engine to rotate at all with this method (We had the transmission in 4th or 8th, we couldn't really tell).

Any thoughts on freeing the engine. Will I need to remove the head and soak the cylinders in penetrating oil? If I do remove the head I assume I would need a new head gasket. Could I pull the injectors and squirt a bunch a penetrating oil in the injector holes instead? Is there much of a chance on getting the engine running without rebuilding it?

[henk]

Welcome to this board.

I can't help you with your problem, but one thing is for sure, the Major has no 4th or 8th gear. It's a three speed gearbox with a high and low and two reverse.

[Pavel]

With your comment that you had it in "4th or 8th" I just wonder if you may have selected reverse gear by mistake.
You could remove the injectors and inject diesel into the cylinders -- leaving it for a few days to soak in. [If this works do not under any circumstances try to start the engine before first draining the sump of oil and diesel].
I would also be inclined to remove the starter motor in case the pinion is jammed onto the ring-gear. You could also remove the rocker cover and check free movement of the rockers not in contact with opened valves. If none of them move I suggest you cut your losses and remove the head.
Having said all that; if the piston rings are seized to the cylinders by rust, the most likely cause is a leaking head gasket, even though condensation over the years is also a possibility. Either way you will have some serious fettling to do -- but worth it in the long run.

Pavel

[ford5000y]

My boss is moving and offered to sell me his 58 major for $200. I know he is pretty much giving it away to me at $200 but I am curious what it is going to take to get the engine turning over.

The tractor is in relatively good shape. The sheet metal appears to all be there and rust free (Central Oregon is very dry and we don't have much of a problem with rust). I have been searching this sight and reading through the manuals. It appears that all the major components are there. The front tires do hold air but are pretty well dry rotted. The rear tires appear to be up to what little work I would ever throw at them. I own 5 acres and would like to do a little rototilling, and maybe move some dirt around if I ever found a front end loader.

The last time he had the tractor running was 4 years ago or so when he was given the tractor by a friend. At that time they pulled the tractor around the field with a bigger tractor until the engine started turning. Then he was able to get the tractor running with a new battery.

Yesterday I took a battery over and could hear the starter engage but the engine wouldn't move a bit. There is some sort of coupling on the front of the crank shaft. It looks like a piece of 1.5" tubing with four half circular slots cut into it. It looks like it might be for some sort coupling to engage a manual crank. I tried turning this with a crow bar and could barely get it to move a quarter turn before I broke my bosses crow bar. Does any know the proper tool to engage this coupling with? We then pulled the tractor about 20 feet with my truck engaging and disengaging the clutch on the tractor. We couldn't get the engine to rotate at all with this method (We had the transmission in 4th or 8th, we couldn't really tell).

Any thoughts on freeing the engine. Will I need to remove the head and soak the cylinders in penetrating oil? If I do remove the head I assume I would need a new head gasket. Could I pull the injectors and squirt a bunch a penetrating oil in the injector holes instead? Is there much of a chance on getting the engine running without rebuilding it?

Well, I'm very envious of you, a major that needs engine repair for 200 dollars! it's pretty much worth it. Ireally wish we owned a Fordson!!!!

[super6954]

Hi Oughtsix
Welcome to the forum If the tractor is a power major with 2 stage clutch ( live PTO/ Hydraulics) you can put about 2500 to $2700 into it and get it running/paint it, and still be the right side of the deal if you ever wanted out . The North American market seems to have softened on Majors and some other brands from what I see. There are quite a few around in Canada that guys can't get 3500-$4000 for .
We had a member I believe was in Oregon that wanted $5000 for a power major he had way more in than that, and he was struggling to find a buyer and it was in the classifieds here for parts I don't know if it ever did sell .

With the motor not turning right over and trying to tow it I would say it might be either hydro locked with water in a cylinder coming on compression if this is the case you would be able to get it to turn back pretty easily on the fan belt by hand though, or you have a rust ridge in 1 or more sleeves and the piston is jammed up tight now . With either of these problems you run a risk of bending a rod towing it .
In the past i have removed the starter and tried turning the motor forward and back carefully with a good pry bar on the ring teeth. then put oil in the cylinders and kept working back and forth till it would go over full compression strokes. It averages you can get lucky on 2 tractors then the 3rd one is so bad it won't free up or it does and the rings are stuck and it won't start or runs bad .
To be honest this is not something a guy can give accurate answers to without being there Its hard to know how tight it is turning when it was moving,or when a guys levering too much on a bar on the ring teeth and going to mangle something . If I was there Id see if it would turn back and forward, If i could not get it to turn back easily , I'd be pulling the head now and looking inside I think i'ts easy to waist half a day and still end up in there looking .
Regards Robert

[Oughtsix]

Thank you guys for all the feedback. I went over there last Saturday with the intention of bringing the tractor home. Uhaul was being an overly big pain in the rear and wouldn't rent me the trailer I reserved. Next weekend I will rent an equipment trailer from a real equipment dealer.

I didn't study the transmission shift pattern. I thought it was an H with with 1,2,3 and 4 markings inside of 5,6,7 and 8 markings. But I just barely glanced at it. I probably remember wrong. I also seem to think that it is a 6 cylinder but I think the specs I read said the New Majors have 4 cylinder diesels? Could it be a Power Major? I probably wouldn't recognize a 2 stage clutch if on bit me on the butt!

Western Oregon is very wet and rainy. Central Oregon is very dry. My hunch is the engine isn't hydro locked. The engine is very tight though. I literally busted the tip off of a crow bar trying to turn the engine via the connector on the front of the crank pully. I have always had excellent luck with Kroil. I will try some Kroil through the injector holes. Then pull the head if that doesn't work. When you say not to run it after breaking the engine loose with penetrating oil are you referring to thinning out the oil in the crank case or over pressurizing the cylinders by lighting off the penetrating oil? If I pull the head should I replace the head gasket? How about the injectors? Do they have seals that need replacing? (I am familiar with petrol injectors but not Diesel injectors).

The neighbor that gave the tractor to my boss passed away. The original owners son now owns his fathers place and my boss mentioned that there is a sister parts tractor there with power steering and a front end loader. If I can get this tractor started I might try to contact the son about the parts tractor. I think I pulled a chest muscle trying to turn the steering wheel when the tractor was rolling. Power steering would be nice, so would a front end loader.

I will take it easy on trying to pull start the tractor. It rolls pretty well with clutch in. Hopefully good enough to get it up on an equipment trailer. I will try to post some pictures when I pick it up next weekend.

[Dandy Dave]

Welcome aboard Matey. If is a 6 cylinder, it has been modified. It is still well worth the $200. If nothing else, you could part it out and make money on it.

With that said... Dandy Dave!

[Pavel]

Count the injectors and the pipes leading to them -- that will tell you if it is a 4 or 6 cylinder.
Post the casting numbers found on the block and head. These knowledgable blokes will be able to tell what, where and when it was made.
To remove the injectors,first take off the rocker cover and unbolt the bleed-off pipe.
What reading does the engine oil dipstick show? Is it full, over-full or empty? Is it oil or what? If it's milky, it's got lots of water mixed with it.
The H pattern gear sequence is: to the left, 1 & 2, to the right, 3 & reverse, with the latter towards you. High range is with the lever up. If you previously used reverse, you might like to try towing it again using 3 in high range.

Pavel

[henk]

1958 could be both. Clocks and throttle under the steering wheel is a Power. Throttle on the brake side is a New Major.
If your steering is that heavy, something’s wrong with it and power steering will make things worse.
Check the king pins. These tractors have a light steering normally.

[Oughtsix]

I was under the impression that the engine is a 6 cylinder from the number of fuel injector lines from the fuel pump. My memory is foggy now and I question if there really were 6 fuel injection lines. Likewise I have convinced myself that it must have a 6 speed as you guys described.

I hope to bring the tractor home next Saturday. I will have a much better assessment of the tractor once I have it home and can become better acquainted with it.

The steering is very heavy... but tight. I am guessing the whole tractor could use a good lube. I didn't fill the front tires to the point that they were hard, I didn't want them blowing up in my face. I am pleased to know that the steering should be usable without power assist once the steering is functioning properly.

From other posts on this board I understand it is not difficult to screw up the injectors when removing them. I read something about someone that took the injectors apart when trying to remove them. The tractor comes with a service manual and an owners manual. I will make sure I know what I am doing before trying to remove the injectors.

Thank you guys for the warm welcome!

[Oughtsix]

I finally got it home! $200 for the tractor and $57.60 for the trailer rental.

Now I need to figure out how to remove the injectors so I can get some Kroil in the cylinders and try to free the engine.

[henk]

Nice catch.
It's certainly a New Major Mark II diesel. You have wheel weights as well.

[Oughtsix]

Nice catch.
It's certainly a New Major Mark II diesel. You have wheel weights as well.

My daughter only weighs about 60lbs.

[Dandy Dave]

We can see that it is indeed a 4 cylinder. And you have a farm mate that comes with it. What a vantastic deal. More photos from other angles please. Dandy Dave!

[Oughtsix]

I will get some more photos posted this coming weekend.

[super6954]

Hi
Im kinda thinking there is a guy somewhere yelling, "Cletus get the gun I've been robbed" , That was an incredible buy for $200. The cheapest Major I've ever picked up was $650 and it was not a third the tractor you got .
Regards Robert

[Oughtsix]

Thank you guys for the encouragement! I got real lucky with this Fordson. It was a gift to my boss and he had no money into it, he just needed it gone. I don't really know anything about tractors but I am working on that and this website is helping a lot! I hope this isn't too many photos?

[Oughtsix]

I see how water can get into the cylinders with the configuration of the exhaust manifold and muffler. Shouldn't the exhaust tip be covered or a an elbow put on the top or something?


995203 A - Is this the serial number?

[Oughtsix]

The rust seems relatively minor. She might get a paint job if I can get her running.


The engine oil is black, not milky... I take that as a good sign. The transmission oil looked clear like it got some fresh oil in the not too distant past.
There seems to be a few "spare" wires. It looks like they have been hanging there for quite a while.


I assume she was setup to have a front loader at some point in time? Are these brackets stock or were they added some where along the way?

[Oughtsix]

I seem to have a bit of a problem. My daughter (In the pictures) seems to be dead set that the tractor should be painted Green and Yellow! She is a fan of Oregon Ducks (Team Colors) and our mower also happens to be painted Green and yellow.

I am have a hard time explaining that this isn't that way it is done... she just can't comprehend why it needs to be blue!

[chriss]

nice pics, looks like bargain of the century, I don't think I 'd paint it ,good luck with it though

[Brian]

The serial number is either behind the starter under the air cleaner bowl on the flange or under No 1 injector. I do not think she is a 1958 but a little earlier, possibly around 1954 although she does have a narrow fan belt. My reason for thinking this is she has no breather on the timing cover, this came in about 1957, she also has a vertical injection pump rather than an inclined one, again a 1957 change.

If you can post the serial number from the flange and find some of the casting codes from the castings we can give you a true date for her.

Try going to the Wiki on this site via the link in the forum headings, use "fordsontractorpages" and "dotty" as the user name and password, you will find an article called "Identifying Your Major" which has pictures of the casting codes and serial number locations.

Great pictures!

[Dandy Dave]

Never too many Pictures. You have a hydraulic remote which is very useful for equipment that requires a Hydraulic Cylinder. The belt pulley is a nice option to have although you may not ever use it unless you take it to an old equipment show and belt it up to a blower, thrasher, hay press, feed grinder or if you happen by a belt powered cordwood saw. The first half of the 1900's this was common place. The second half, the rear splined PTO had passed it by and is still in use today as standard on every farm tractor. Your motor may not be stuck that bad. There should be a drain hole in the elbow of the exhaust to let the rain out. Often they become pluged with rust and carbon. I always keep a can over mine even when it is in the shed. Oh, and you cannot paint it green and Yellow by order of the King! It needs to be Blue with Orange Wheels. Paint the mower the proper Fordson colors if the Li'l Princess says the paint must match. Dandy Dave!

[Dandy Dave]

nice pics, looks like bargain of the century, I don't think I 'd paint it ,good luck with it though

Yes a very good deal but I got the Bargain Fordson of the Century... 0 down. 0 payments. And it came with many options. Raised PTO, Power steering, dual clutch, hydraulic remote. And I drove it on, and off of the trailor. Dandy Dave!

[chriss]

you lucky lucky man i'd like to rub shoulders with you