Q. regarding glazing of cylindrs.

[RH]

Hello,

i have a Q. re. FM's & FSM's.

We hear quite a bit about having to work these tractors hard, or the cylindrs will become polished and glazed, and blow oil.

My question is;
Is this problem found more in these tractors than in other makes and models?
If so, Why?

Any insight into this would be most appreciated.

I know a diesel engine should work, and not putter about, but it seems that my old FSM gets a lot of running about jobs,...raking hay, brush-mowing, etc......................need to find a plough!

Best wishes,

Richard.

[Brian]

It is a problem with all diesel engines not just Fords. I have seen it with trucks, delivery vans on short runs, cars on the "school run" etc.etc.etc.

It can be made worse by the modern multi-purpose oils that have additves in to stop inboard wet disc brake from "squarking". If the engine is not run under load and does not work up the correct temperature, this additive deposits on the cylinder walls increasing the problem.

When i was working in the dealership in the 1970's, both Perkins and Mercedes refused to warranty their engines unless they were used on "straight" diesel engine oils not multi-purpose ones.

There is also a feeling in people that I talk to in the oil supply trade that the new modern oils may not be a good thing in our old tractor engines. The 15/40W is not the same as a straight 40W or a 30/49W. I use this example because Henrietta should be run on 40W. But there is a differnce in the use that we are putting them to and we can get away with it.

I know of an IH engine that was run on Duckhams 10/40W which has just had to have a new crank and connecting rod because the oil was the wrong spec. for the older engine.

[Emiel]

Time for a little (bad) joke:


You can not blame Duckhams for a IH engine quitting its job.

Yoke mode off/

Regards

Emiel

[RH]

Thank you for the reply, Brian.

It's about time to change the oil in the old FSM, so should I use straight 30 wt?.....and just plug in the circulating heater if using it below freezing?
( I know you said yours should have straight 40 wt, but here it can get a bit colder, down to maybe -40 -odd Centigrade.)
Your opinion is always greatly appreciated!
Thank you for your help.

Richard.

[essex pete]

I hardly dare post this but,on the subject of glazed bores, here goes!

A cousin of mine works in Africa and was involved with servicing some Deutz engined ADTs. They spend a lot of time ticking over whilst waiting for loading etc. They had a unusual cure for smokey glazed engines. They remove the air cleaner pipe to inlet and on slow running dust approx 1 egg cupful of Vim (scouring powder) in to the air intake. They run engines in work for 4 hours then change oil and filters.
If this was April I would recon on a wind-up, but cousin swears it worked. He said they were sweating on a phone call shortly afterwards when they were informed that an engine had gone down. Luckily for them it was on a machine they had not touched or serviced!

[brownsmule]

Yes; I have heard of this fix also. It was used in 1955 when Chevrolet came out with their OHV V8 (sbc)engine. Rings were not seating on the new engines and it was told that Chevrolet Dealerships put scouring powder thru the intake while running the engine and then serviced the engine with proper changes. It worked for them until the factory solved the problem. I don't want to do this to any of my engines but if it is going to require a rebuild anyway, what the heck; give it a try.

[Brian]

Strangely enough Ford used a "running in" fluid when the problem occured on the '000nd series. It mixed in with the diesel and was supposed to remove the glazing. They still needed stripping and honing though to sort the problem. Put them on a big plough and make them work hard when new was far more effective.