The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Hi All

Moving along with assembly of my major. Have the side rails, tombstone, gas tank/battery brackets, attached and looking to get my front end underneath her. I am going to order a reaming tool for the spindle bearings but in the meantime I started disassembly of the power steering ram unit, I think the ball on the end of the ram is screwed on with roll pin is that right? I managed to get the threaded retaining end piece off the business/ball end of the ram tube but after that I am stuck. I see a 2 stepped small, then larger (one piece?) ring where a seal is in place center of the smaller ring. How is that retained if you know. I looked at old posts and do have a diagram from New Holland but the detail is lacking and the workshop manual says "remove ram" with no other explanation.
On the opposite end of the ram, I am stuck at the second ball joint, its loose, I got the retainer ring off but I don't know how it would be dislodged. It is contained in an Inside threaded/slotted tube, within a tube. Any help would be appreciated. I was not planning on taking the ram apart but then decided it needed to be powder coated like the rest of the front end. Also thought the ram would need new seals by now.
Unrelated to the steering, the hood/bonnet contour metal plate divide between engine and gas tank next to the battery tray has an identically shaped composite/heat resistant twin that seems to need to bottom out at battery tray level so it will line up with various holes/shapes in its twin metal plate . Mine won't bottom out as its too tight a squeeze even with the screwholes/slots all the way out. I could elongate the screw holes but don't want to. AM I missing something

thanks again

Kerry

Just figured out the engine divide plate. The composite piece goes on the engine side not the battery side. Kerry

It has been quite a while since I had my PS ram apart. The ball that the drag link attaches to actuates a valve in the cylinder. If I remember correctly, there is a sleeve that also needs to come out. The valve in mine was seized with rust so it had to be disassembled. Seals I got form my local hydraulic shop. Has worked fine for many years now. I'll have to look at the parts break down too jog my memory.

If memory serves me correctly, From the diagram, # 2 and #3 unthread. Everything from 4-10 slides out to remove the ball. I think that pin #8 is in the sleeve assembly and keeps #9 from rotating. Once the ball is out, #12- 37 slides out. Then the piston assembly will come out after that. I would not be surprised if you will have to deal with the rust and dirt sticking the sleeves like I had to. Renew all O rings and seals for best results. Dandy Dave!

Thanks for the info Dave, just happen to have time tonight after work to proceed, I will print out your instructions.

Kerry

All worked out well taking the ram apart, sure helps knowing what was threaded and what was not. I screwed the threaded end plug onto the outer tube so I could dislodge the inner parts by hitting the tube on a cement floor. unfortunately the very fine threads were damaged a bit as it took lots of muscle to turn the end plug out of the tube after all was dislodged. I will try New Holland for seals/parts first. Their website indicates these parts are still in service. Now I can send the tube body to the powder coater.
next is to put the head on finally. Thanks again for the help! Kerry

Well, New Holland had 4 of the 18 parts I was hoping for. One part I really needed is a slightly "tented" washer. There are a few used inside the ram, this one is closest to the valve, about 30 per cent of it broke off in two pcs. They are most likely spring steel. I guess I'll see if the parts yard has a ram they will sell me. Hope the hydro shop can fit some new seals.
Kerry

Replace them with grade 8 washers. You should be able to get seals and o rings at your hydraulic shop. Get it painted, back together, and go to work. Dandy Dave!

I believe those are spring washers, McMaster Carr should have them, if you can’t find what you need let me know.

Pat

Thanks for the offer Pat, the counter man at the hydro shop told me about Mcmaster carr. He sold me the 5 seals I needed for $1.75. I then got on line and ordered the cup washers. Had to buy a bag of 10 for 12 bucks if anybody might need one/some. The Hydro shop does machine work so I will take my axle/spindles by and see if they can fix the slop somehow. I certainly cannot.
Dropped the ram tube off at the powder coat shop and will re assemble the whole thing when I get the tube back next week.
Since the head is not on yet, I thought about bolting the starter up, getting a 12 volt car battery and crank away until the engine distributes oil throughout. I guess I might have to block the oil hole to the head.

Thanks again

Kerry

Bummer, I went to oil up the engine using a funnel into the oil return hole in the block (head is not installed) and the oil just filled up the funnel and stayed put. I cut my own pan gasket and must have left something covered that should not have been. maybe I could polk through the gasket with something to clear a hole. Shoot! well taking the pan off again gives me the chance to put cobalt magnets inside the pan for picking up shavings. Kerry

This ended up in the colom, hate it when that happens!

Pat