rusty turns over but wont run

[chriss]

for the first time went to start "rusty" turned over but wouldn't start, normaly as soon as the lever is pushed down it's running couple of times tried to fire up but then nothing got fuel to the pump cracked injectors and squirted fuel but wont run. any ideas,

[AdrianNPMajor]

Any air getting into the system? Lift pump diaphragm holed perhaps?
Best
Adrian

[chriss]

hi Adrian not sure about lift pump though fairly new when I tried to pump fuel nothing seemed to happen and felt no resistance on the lever, also recently it seemed wasn't getting full full throttle don't know if it's all related

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Chris
If your lift pump was on the cam, you wouldn't have got any feel on the lever. Pull the stop knob out, then touch the starter until the lift pump is off the cam. Re your problem, the fact that it started happening all of a sudden points to something changing all at once and not over time. On this reckoning the first place I'd check is the lift pump diaphragm. You haven't got a spare lift pump by any chance to swap over, have you?
Best
Adrian

[AdrianNPMajor]

By the way, I'd say the failure to reach full throttle is related.

[henk]

Check the filter in side the diesel tank. Could be that there is not enough diesel going trough.

[Pavel]

Whilst it's always nice to be able to identify a problem at once, unfortunately the fuel and electrical systems rarely lend themselves to this. Even though you state that the cracked injectors flow fuel it still remains as to whether they flow enough - and that it is uncontaminated.
Start from the beginning of the system. By removing the inlet pipe to the lift pump you should get a steady fuel flow which tells you that the internal tank filter is clear. After re-connecting it, remove that which enters the filter cannister and use the priming lever to ensure a good pulse of fuel is being pumped, which will indicate whether or not the lift pump is serviceable. The next step would be to remove the filter element to look at its condition, as well as checking the fuel inside the cannister for muck and/or water. If dirt or water then a new filter is required and all the fuel changed. After that, and having bled the system, it still refuses to run properly, then I would suspect that the injector pump is the problem -- either timing or internal dirt.
Having said all that, I have come across 2 rare problems in the past. One was the breather hole in the fuel filler cap was blocked causing a vacuum in the tank; and the other was a blocked rubber connecting hose that laminated inside and stopped fuel from flowing.

Pavel

[chriss]

all good advice, not had chance to do anything today been sorting out new shed for next project,but will have the best part of the day on it tomorrow hopefully get it sorted, just not the same with rusty out of action

[Dandy Dave]

Is it cold where you are? Below Freezing? Water in the fuel line turned to ice? I had a problem with my Power Major a while ago. A piece of leaf was sucking to the inlet in the bottom of the tank and not allowing the fuel to flow. I got it out by siphoning the fuel into jugs and moving the hose around the bottom of the tank as the jugs were filling. I found the leaf when I ran the fuel though a paint filter in a funnel while refilling the tractor. Have not had a problem since. Dandy Dave!

[chriss]

hi dave, no to be honest it's been mild we haven't had a handful of frost all winter certainly not freeze after freeze, just cant understand why something that started so well without fail would suddenly not start just puffs out grey smoke

[oehrick]

Have you had the tank cap off since you tried to start Chris ? I painted over the vent hole in mine and after a while open throttle got less and less and when it eventually stalled it didn't restart until I'd checked there was enough fuel in - the next time I noticed fuel level was low in the lift pump glass and the diaphragm tight, opening the cap again solved the matter so I then had a good idea of the cause..............

[chriss]

as suggested checked fuel flow from tank seemed ok, primed from lift pump to injector pump seemed good but took pipe off injector and turned engine over and it was barely a spit, how much should I expect I did blow through with air line and the pipe is clear

[Dandy Dave]

Maybe the rack is seized.

[oehrick]

as suggested checked fuel flow from tank seemed ok, primed from lift pump to injector pump seemed good but took pipe off injector and turned engine over and it was barely a spit, how much should I expect I did blow through with air line and the pipe is clear

Chris

pump calibration section of the manual says ~ 12ccs per 200 injections (per injector) @ 600 rpm, so not much per few revs cranking !!

HTH

[Matt in WI]

Greetings Chris,

How long has it been since it was last run ?

[chriss]

two weeks at the most

[Gman]

Maybe the rack is seized.

Hello to all. I had similar problem a few years back. Run ok one day then next would not start up, just crank and puff smoke. The rack was stuck inside the fuel pump. Easy fix, if you move the throttle lever on the fuel pump from open to close slowly by hand you can feel the rack move back and forth with the
diaphragm giving some resistance. You can look at my old post to see where I repaired it and you can tell by my questions that I'm not a tractor mechanic .
Good luck.

[Matt in WI]

I have to agree with the rack sticking, makes perfect sense and fits both your symptoms. Remove the cover off the injection pump and give her a good shot of lubricant working the rack back and forth and see if that does it.

[henk]

Make sure the pump and surroundings is clean.

[Matt in WI]

Henk, you are absolutely 100% correct. Sorry I forgot to mention that as well. You don't want any debris in the pump ! I like to give them a rite good soaking in parts cleaner then a scrub, more parts cleaner then a good blast of compressed air before removing the pump cover.

[chriss]

do you mean the cover on the side if so I did take that off yesterday it wasn't what I expected looked like a dusting of fine coffee granuals in there,i did pull the stop out then pressed the cold start and the rod running through did move I don't no what else should be happening in there but it didn't look like a well lubricated piece of kit

[Matt in WI]

Yes the cover on the side of the injection pump, but it sounds like what you described is a typical case of condensation in the pump if you have what looks like fine coffee granules in there. It should be nice and clean. You may have little bits jamming up the shaft. None the less all that mess should be cleaned up. Remember the injection pump is a precision piece of machinery.

[henk]

What ever you do, don't lossen up the four units on the rack. If you do you will have to calibrate the pump again and that is a specialist work.

[Matt in WI]

I have taken the injection pumps apart before and reassembled them with a good success rate but it is not for the faint hearted, they are best left to a professional that deals in fuel systems. If your not careful and you open it up parts may go sailing all over the workshop and you could end up like this little fellow

[chriss]

[img][IMG]http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a571/chriss1959/rustyspump001_zps7f9e1108.jpg[/img][/img] this is the offending item I have since cleaned it now should this be filled with oil to the large screw on the cover