replacement headlights

[witty73]

Hi all,

Ive been making some on getting my 53 back together. The original headlights are pretty trashed, and rather then try to re-use them, Im on the lookout for somme repacements. Ive been looking for some that are as close to original as possible, here is what I am curious about:

Of the reproductions, does anybody know which ones out there are closest to original? My original switch with the hi and low beam works, so I would like to retain that feature.

Does anybody make a reproduction that uses a halogen bulb?

lastly, when wiring, which position do the fender lights wire to? As in, do they urn on with the rear light, or the headlights?

Thanks,
Witty

[oehrick]

Can't answer your question witty73 but with their durability (especially under vibration) and the price of LED replacements for ordinary bulbs coming down it might be worth looking that way so the poor old dynymoo isn't overtaxed a friend has just equipped his Land Rover with them and is both amazedat how bright they are and how long he can leave them on without engine running or killing the battery

[witty73]

I guess I should update a little more. I actually have replaced the generator with a 65 amp, internally regulated alternator. I have rewired the entire tractor, and am at the point that I need to address the headlights. over the years, the lights had come loose, and subsquently the nut that tightens the housing to the nose cone, and also helps keep them in position had become stuck so that the lights were rotated down. I removed them. One side is reuseable, however, the other I had to actually tack weld what was left of the guts inside the housing to keep the stud from turning so I could get it off. the socket on that side was also trashed. So even going with new bulbs, I would still have to come up with another light. I havent looked into LED's, but I like that idea. Does somebody make a replacement for these that allows the use off the hi / low switch?

[Dandy Dave]

The correct headlights are Butlers. I restored mine and put them back on the tractor. The hardest thing to find was the bulbs. There is a fellow in the UK that has the right bulbs. He sells motor cycle parts. Here you are.[url]urlhttp://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/[/url]

I do not know of anyone doing an exact copy of the originals. Dandy Dave!

[Dandy Dave]

Look on the net. Here is a re-pop. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fordson-Major ... 2a2f92d36e Dandy Dave!

[AdrianNPMajor]

I wonder if I could ask a related question. Are the replacement lamps close enough in design that you can remove the guts of the new lamps (reflector, bulb holder, etc) and fit them inside the original Butler housings?
Many thanks.
Adrian

[witty73]

great question, the same thing had occurred to me. Anybody know?

[Timeee]

Good Evening Witty

You asked about how the lights are wired. The lighting switch works as follows: Straight down: - Off, First Right: Side Lights (fender) and Rear No plate light. First Left: Side, Rear and dipped headlights. Second Left: Side, Rear and Main beam headlights. Third Left: Main beam headlights only.
Regards Tim E

[witty73]

third Left? I dont even think I have a third left postion.

[Pavel]

Thanks for the heads up about the halogen bulbs/globes DD; I've long wanted to replace the 'candle light' of the originals as headlights on is compulsory here for tractors during daylight hours -- important when travelling on narrowish winding gravel roads with implements. Decent chrome beam reflectors also help.

Witty, if, as you imply, you are going to re-wire your FMD then you will have to have access to the light switch. In which case I suggest you make note of the wiring colour codes, and which terminal they are connected too, or better still take a digital pic. of them, before removing same. The wire[s] coloured BLACK are for the side and tail lamps; the one[s] coloured BLACK with RED tracer are for dipped beam and those BLACK with GREEN tracer are to Hi beam.
Up-grading the amperage capacity of wires helps to reduce voltage loss resulting in slightly brighter lights. Tinning wire ends helps to reduce bad connections and future corrosion problems.

Pavel

[witty73]

I have documented everything, in case somebody wants to reverse my work and put it back to original some day. Any wiring that was questionable was replaced with new, and all connections were soldered and covered in heat shrink before being taped back up, and wrapped in plastic wire loom. I have run all the wires to front, and terminated them at the connection there until I figure out what I am going to do for headlights. My goal was to keep it original looking as possible, with an upgrade to a hi / low beam halogen. Didnt realize it would be this difficult.

Secondly, my side marker and rear lights were disconnected when I got the tractor, and havent gone to work rewiring that portion. I figured the side lights went with the rear light, based on what was left of the original wiring. The way my switch seemed to be was all the way left - rear lighting. straight up and down off, first right postion - low beam and rear, and second right position - high beam and rear. I dont have a third postion at all.

[Dandy Dave]

What part of the world are you in? Perhaps a different switch was used for export tractors say to here in the U.S.A. Or the earlier switches may have been different. Dandy Dave!

[Pavel]

My owners Instruction Manual for the New Major [printed in the UK, even though also used here in Australia] describes a 3 position light switch, other than Off, with one click anti-clockwise for park and tail lamps; 1st click clockwise for park/tail lamps and h/lamp dipped with the 2nd click clockwise being for park/tail lamps and h/lamp Hi beam. My 1961 Super Major has the same configuration.
In the Electrical Section of the manual the positions of the light switch are explained and itemised and reference to the wiring diagramme shows what goes where with the relative wire colours also shown. The position of the switch is configured to automatically supply power to the various lamps selected without having to bridge different contact points with additional wiring.

Pavel

[witty73]

yes Pavel, that is how mine works when testing all the contact points with a test light.

[Pavel]

Following a post that Brian had on another subject today about light/ignition switches I checked out the 2 major companies that supply tractor parts here in Oz. One of them lists a switch that, whilst it appears to be plastic, does have the extra switch mode mentioned by Tim E. ie for hi beam only.

Pavel