Brake Parts and questions

[witty73]

Hi all, so if you have followed any of my other posts, you will undoubtedly know that the 1953 new major has fought me tooth and nail when it comes to fixing the problems it has. This next dillema is no different. I took the rear wheel off the left side of the tractor in an effort to remove the axle housing to reseal it, and stop yet another leak. (This may become a thread of its own, but not yet .) Any ways, the brake on that side didnt seen to be functioning, so I tore it apart. I found that, repeated years of use without greasing the cable created a situation where the brake was permanently stuck in the engaged position. this obviously has severly worn not only the shoes, but also the drum. I may be able to have the drum cut and resurfaced, but I am not finding anwhere to get new shoes or linings. The cable is more then likely going to need to be replaced, as after all the years of continuing to step on the already engaged brakes has stretched it, and it is frozen. Lastly, one of the short springs that hold the shoes to the inside of the backing plate is broken. I did some web searching, but failed to find any place to order parts. Anybody rebuilt the brakes on a early new major before? Im wondering if parts are available, and also if anybody has some tolerance specifications as to how much the drum can be cut and still work. Any and all help and opinions are welcome. Thanks as always.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hello Witty
The link below shows you where to buy the spring set for the brakes. Brake shoes are also readily available.
Re drum wear, there is a fair amount of adjustment on the brakes to take up wear. Just depends how bad your drums are. You may have to source replacements from a breaker's yard if the existing ones are too worn or scored.
This photo may be helpful. I've got more photos if you decide to replace the inner bull pinion seal.
Best, Adrian.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/17140500 ... 0&ff14=108

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[AdrianNPMajor]

Sorry about the photo. The left side is missing. Trying to work out how to upload images so this doesn't happen. If you right-click on the image and choose 'View image', you see the whole thing.
Best, Adrian.

[witty73]

I can see the photo just fine. Thanks for the link, I was hoping to source some parts here on the this side of the pond, but doesnt look like I have much choice. When you refer to the inner bull seal, do you mean the one that is visible in the picture? Should I replace that when I have it apart? the way things are going on this tractor, it will likely leak when I am done anyways. LOL

[AdrianNPMajor]

Yes, I would replace the seal visible in the photo above. There are two seals in the bull pinion housing - an inner and outer. The one in the photo above is the outer. Ideally you would replace both, but just doing the outer should stop any oil getting into the drum assembly. The original outer seal has a leather lip (see photo below). You'll have to measure up the drum hub and the housing seal seat diameters to find a replacement.
Best, Adrian.

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/ ... .jpg[/img][/url]

[witty73]

In other words, there should no oil in the "stub" shaft, or brake shafts, or whatever you call it housing? So it would be a good idea to try and find replacement inner and outer seals as long as I have it apart?

[AdrianNPMajor]

In a word, yes! The outer bearing is meant to be lubricated with grease.
If you have a look at the thread in the link below, you'll see this subject about half way down the page. Photos and explanation.
Best, Adrian.

http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... hp?p=36185

[Gman]

Hello to all. I have been following this thread and wanted to ask if you have to remove back wheels in order to work on brakes? Not sure with the wheel weights and all if I could handle taking them off. This is something I need to work on since I do most of my work on a hill and no brakes when going backwards but brakes seem to work somewhat going forward because when applying to one side I can make her take a tighter turn. I have a whole backend of a major and was wondering if you can pull the complete brake shaft, housing etc. out as a whole unit from this tractor and see what the brakes look like and if in good shape then put the whole unit into my power major? I hope to start my power major up today, time of year for me to put her to work doing bush hogging. Good luck to all on your projects.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Yes, you could remove the brake housings from your spare back end, refurbish them, then swap them for the ones on your tractor.
I don't have a Diesel Major anymore, so I'm not sure if you have enough room to withdraw the bull pinion before the drum assembly fouls on the wheel hub (depending on what width the hubs are set at). Even if there were enough room, it would be a very awkward manouevre. For the time that it takes, I would remove the mudguards and get a block and tackle onto the wheel. You'd then have a clear run at the job.
Once the brakes have been overhauled, you'll find them extremely useful for manouevring, as well as stopping. It's a vital job that needs doing asap.
Best, Adrian.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Oh, by the way ........



Would be great to see some photos of your Major and your lovely part of the world.
Best, Adrian.

[Gman]

Thanks Adrian, the block and tackle seems to be the way to go for me with the Power Major having wheel weights. If I remove the whole assembly will I need new seals or just a gasket? I do not have any oil leaks around the brakes at this time. I will go back and look at the pictures and I may be able to tell this from them.
As to the pics, I will have to figure out image shack again on how it works since they have changed the site. There are some pictures in my old posts but hope to get some new ones on here. Did a little paint work on the bonnet and engine to stop rusting, will not say what I did to the grills but plan to go back to the silver.
Again thanks for the advice, think I will go out and see if the old girl wants to purr a little and I'm talking about the Power Major not the boss lady, she is out working making us a pay check.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hello Gman
The brake housings contain the seals (two - inner and outer) and there is no gasket between the housing and the aperture that it fits into. So, yes, you could just swap the brake housings and the job would be done without the need for seals and a gasket. However, whilst you have the wheels off and brake housings on your bench, it would make a lot of sense to remove the brake back plates, knock the bull pinion shaft out of its housing to reveal the inner seal. Replace this and the outer seal, and you won't have to revisit this job ever again. Not replacing the seals would leave you open to an oil leak, and you can bet your bottom dollar that would happen shortly after you've put everything back together again!
Best, Adrian.

[witty73]

Alright, point taken about the photos. lol. Let me ask this though Adrian, does that outer seal come out from the "brake" side of the housing, or do you have to remove the housing and pull everything out from the "tractor" side to remove the original style seal? Reason I ask is, there seems to be a retainer holding it in. it can be seen in the picture.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hello Witty
The seal in the photo comes out from brake drum end. There's no retainer. What you are looking at is a metal cased leather bearing. What looks like a retainer is a groove in the metal casing - it's a variation on the design of the one higher up in this thread (see photo).
Having got this far, it would be a good idea to cut the wire on the bolt heads holding the brake housing in place and extract the brake housing and its shaft (aka bull pinion). You could then knock the shaft out of the housing. Simply hold the housing and tap the protruding shaft at the brake end onto a block of wood. You can then get easy access to both seals either end of the housing. Once you have replaced the seals, reinsert shaft and knock it back into place by tapping the whole assembly on the block of wood again. Reassemble and rewire the bolt heads. I found it useful to make some dowels (see photo above) to guide the bull pinion back into place - you'll find it doesn't want to mesh, you'll fiddle for five minutes, then without doing anything different, it will suddenly slide into place. Alternatively, it will slide in first time! I had both.
Best, Adrian.

[AdrianNPMajor]

ps Liberally grease the outer bearing before inserting new seal.
Best, Adrian.