Wireing
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chriss
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Wireing
Has anyone got a wording diagram for a major which has an alternator rather than a dynamo it came with origanal loom but a lot of it has been cut I still want to keep the key switch I'm having trouble with the earth wire in the dash panel
Re: Wireing
If you look up a heading posted on 25th May 2012 titled 'Correct Wiring for an Alternator' you will find the necessary connections/modifications needed to convert from a dynamo -- provided the alternator is an internally regulated one, which most are. If though yours is an early Lucas one it may have a separate regulator which has slightly different wiring.
In essence modern alternators only require the same 2 wire set-up -- a thin one from the ignition switch, and a thicker one direct to the battery and bypassing the old dynamo regulator. All this assumes your electrical system has been converted to Negative Earth.
Pavel
In essence modern alternators only require the same 2 wire set-up -- a thin one from the ignition switch, and a thicker one direct to the battery and bypassing the old dynamo regulator. All this assumes your electrical system has been converted to Negative Earth.
Pavel
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chriss
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Re: Wireing
thanks pavel found the post will give it a go tomorrow, hopefully there's enough of the loom left there seems a lot that has just been cut off 
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chriss
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Re: Wireing
well still no joy followed instructions but no power at switch only by connecting a wire direct to battery light comes on when I turn the key and horn works but nothing at starter 
must be missing somethig
must be missing somethigRe: Wireing
Don't despair Chris; just be methodical.
Whilst I would suspect the problem could well be where the wires were joined together when the previous regulator was disconnected I would urge you to start at the beginning and trace the whole circuit from the battery.
From where the main wire from the battery is connected to the starter there is a thickish YELLOW wire also connected to it. This is the main system feed which goes to the ammeter [if yours is an early Major] and continues to the old regulator [marked A on the reg.]
From there [marked A1 on the reg.] a YELLOW with RED TRACE wire goes to the ignition/light switch.
From the ign. switch terminal [marked Coil] a RED wire goes to the actuator switch underneath the rubber boot on top of the starter motor. This actuator switch is screw adjustable in or out to provide the correct contact when the starter lever is used.
The other side of this switch has a BLACK with BLUE TRACE wire which supplies current to the starter solenoid.
The RED with WHITE TRACE wire that was previously connected to the F terminal on the reg. now needs extending with new wire to the RED wire terminal [making 2 wires] on the actuator switch to provide the ignition controlled field circuit to the alternator.
To complete the alternator circuit the YELLOW with RED & BLACK trace wire [D on the reg.] should also be connected [as is the yellow with red trace to the ign. switch] to the main YELLOW one previously connected to A on the reg. This will preserve the ammeters reading of charge and discharge as previously.
Pavel
Whilst I would suspect the problem could well be where the wires were joined together when the previous regulator was disconnected I would urge you to start at the beginning and trace the whole circuit from the battery.
From where the main wire from the battery is connected to the starter there is a thickish YELLOW wire also connected to it. This is the main system feed which goes to the ammeter [if yours is an early Major] and continues to the old regulator [marked A on the reg.]
From there [marked A1 on the reg.] a YELLOW with RED TRACE wire goes to the ignition/light switch.
From the ign. switch terminal [marked Coil] a RED wire goes to the actuator switch underneath the rubber boot on top of the starter motor. This actuator switch is screw adjustable in or out to provide the correct contact when the starter lever is used.
The other side of this switch has a BLACK with BLUE TRACE wire which supplies current to the starter solenoid.
The RED with WHITE TRACE wire that was previously connected to the F terminal on the reg. now needs extending with new wire to the RED wire terminal [making 2 wires] on the actuator switch to provide the ignition controlled field circuit to the alternator.
To complete the alternator circuit the YELLOW with RED & BLACK trace wire [D on the reg.] should also be connected [as is the yellow with red trace to the ign. switch] to the main YELLOW one previously connected to A on the reg. This will preserve the ammeters reading of charge and discharge as previously.
Pavel
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chriss
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Re: Wireing
just can't get to grips with this, started from scratch, so far I've got thick yellow on large terminal on alternator red with white tracer on small one, black with blue tracer on one side of actuator and a red on the other,connected to the coil term. on switch, positive terminal on battery connected to solenoid the one with the spade connectors on it now my head is spinning where do I go from here
now my head is spinning where do I go from hereRe: Wireing
Your wiring appears to be correct -- but there could be a break in it somewhere. So:-
Use your multi-meter to check the circuits. If you do not have one, make up a bulb in a holder with 2 wires -- one for positive [live] and one for negative earth [it doesn't matter which way round you connect it up.] If you only have a bulb holder with a single wire, then use the metal case against the tin/iron work to complete a circuit.
Firstly check the connection of the YELLOW wire to the main battery wire at the starter solenoid. It could have a 'dry' joint into the eyelet which would require re-soldering or crimping.
If all OK -
Next turn the ignition on and check that you have voltage where the RED wire connects to the actuator. If you do not then check the joint of the thick YELLOW wire to the RED wire at the position where the old regulator was by removing the insulating tape. If the join is sound still check for voltage here as well. Further back there are the 2 connections to the ammeter and those of the YELLOW and the RED wires to the ignition switch.
If all OK -
With the ign. on have someone operate the starter motor lever whilst you check for volts on the BLACK with BLUE tracer wire connection at the actuator switch. If you have no voltage here then suspect the switch requires adjusting. Usually screwing the switch in one complete turn is enough to make it work.
If OK -
With the ignition on, and the starter lever pressed down, check for voltage where the BLACK with BLUE trace wire connects to the starter solenoid. If you have volts here, and the starter does not work, either you have a dodgy solenoid or the solenoid windings are not earthed either via the casing or a separate connector.
In all of the above, remember that if one end of a wire is live, but the other end is not, it usually indicates a break in that wire and it needs replacing. Also ammeters and ignition switches do break down over time.
Pavel
Use your multi-meter to check the circuits. If you do not have one, make up a bulb in a holder with 2 wires -- one for positive [live] and one for negative earth [it doesn't matter which way round you connect it up.] If you only have a bulb holder with a single wire, then use the metal case against the tin/iron work to complete a circuit.
Firstly check the connection of the YELLOW wire to the main battery wire at the starter solenoid. It could have a 'dry' joint into the eyelet which would require re-soldering or crimping.
If all OK -
Next turn the ignition on and check that you have voltage where the RED wire connects to the actuator. If you do not then check the joint of the thick YELLOW wire to the RED wire at the position where the old regulator was by removing the insulating tape. If the join is sound still check for voltage here as well. Further back there are the 2 connections to the ammeter and those of the YELLOW and the RED wires to the ignition switch.
If all OK -
With the ign. on have someone operate the starter motor lever whilst you check for volts on the BLACK with BLUE tracer wire connection at the actuator switch. If you have no voltage here then suspect the switch requires adjusting. Usually screwing the switch in one complete turn is enough to make it work.
If OK -
With the ignition on, and the starter lever pressed down, check for voltage where the BLACK with BLUE trace wire connects to the starter solenoid. If you have volts here, and the starter does not work, either you have a dodgy solenoid or the solenoid windings are not earthed either via the casing or a separate connector.
In all of the above, remember that if one end of a wire is live, but the other end is not, it usually indicates a break in that wire and it needs replacing. Also ammeters and ignition switches do break down over time.
Pavel
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chriss
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- Location: Wisbech St Mary cambridgeshire
Re: Wireing
thanks pavel at the moment I do suspect the solenoid if I cut out the switgh and connect just to solenoid there is nothing when lever is pressed
Re: Wireing
I always remember one expert telling us that fixing electrical problems is easy -- it's finding the cause of the problem that's time consuming. So keep at it.
You could always place a bridge across the two heavy duty wires on the solenoid which will check whether or not the starter motor works. If someone else operates the lever you could also start the engine which will allow you to check the rest of the electrical system -- especially the charging circuit.
Pavel
You could always place a bridge across the two heavy duty wires on the solenoid which will check whether or not the starter motor works. If someone else operates the lever you could also start the engine which will allow you to check the rest of the electrical system -- especially the charging circuit.
Pavel
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AdrianNPMajor
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Re: Wireing
Hello Chris and Pavel
Watching this thread with interest. I'm a complete ignoramus when it comes to electrics. I'm going to have sort out the wiring on my tractor soon. Would love to fit some lights.
Best, Adrian.
Watching this thread with interest. I'm a complete ignoramus when it comes to electrics.
I'm going to have sort out the wiring on my tractor soon. Would love to fit some lights.Best, Adrian.
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chriss
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- Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2011 8:37 pm
- Location: Wisbech St Mary cambridgeshire
Re: Wireing
same as that Adrian, though did put a new loom on rusty and wired lights in not too bad just followed diagram but this one i'm keeping the alternator on otherwise I need new loom dynamo and regulator, going to have another go tomorrow I've got to get there in the end 
Re: Wireing
Hello FORDSON owner's club!
I just bought a 1956 major diesel tractor. Both gages left and right of the steering were out of order.
A few days ago, I touch the wire harness situated at the back of the main switch.
It has blown up smoke and the harness went into smoke.
I had to take my fire estinguisher bcause I was afraid of puting my garage into fire... I did call 9-1-1 and four fire truck came by...
After a moment I was able to disconnect the battery ( I should have disconnected before).
Today I would like to rebuild the main electric circuit which is really simple!
lights, fan, electric starter are the three element I need to work.
I do not bother to have the accessories wire working bcause the gages are out of order anyway.
CAN I JUST figure out to fix the main switch with fan & lights?
The wires are ONLY burned couple inches behind the main switch.
Your HELP will be deeply appreciated
Merci Beaucoup!
I just bought a 1956 major diesel tractor. Both gages left and right of the steering were out of order.
A few days ago, I touch the wire harness situated at the back of the main switch.
It has blown up smoke and the harness went into smoke.
I had to take my fire estinguisher bcause I was afraid of puting my garage into fire... I did call 9-1-1 and four fire truck came by...
After a moment I was able to disconnect the battery ( I should have disconnected before).
Today I would like to rebuild the main electric circuit which is really simple!
lights, fan, electric starter are the three element I need to work.
I do not bother to have the accessories wire working bcause the gages are out of order anyway.
CAN I JUST figure out to fix the main switch with fan & lights?
The wires are ONLY burned couple inches behind the main switch.
Your HELP will be deeply appreciated
Merci Beaucoup!
Re: Wireing
From your description you do not have a Fordson Major Diesel you either have a Fordson Power Major or a Fordson Super Major. Fordson Major Diesel's had the gauges on a small panel in front of the gear stick.
A fan would also be a bit too modern for any of these tractors so someone has added one. possibly they have "modified" all the wireing too.
A picture of your tractor would help clarify what you have and enable us to give you the correct information.
A fan would also be a bit too modern for any of these tractors so someone has added one. possibly they have "modified" all the wireing too.
A picture of your tractor would help clarify what you have and enable us to give you the correct information.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Re: Wireing
Welcome to this very friendly, and helpful, Forum, JFLAUZIER! Where do you live, by the way?
Firstly, you need to find out where and how the short occurred. Just because the obvious evidence is at the guages, it does not mean it has not extended further down the wires. Look for crinkly, wavy insulation indicating excessive heat. Also remove the voltage regulator cover and check for black burn marks on the resistors and coil windings.
Does the regulator have 5 terminals or 4? Later Majors had 4.
Pavel
Firstly, you need to find out where and how the short occurred. Just because the obvious evidence is at the guages, it does not mean it has not extended further down the wires. Look for crinkly, wavy insulation indicating excessive heat. Also remove the voltage regulator cover and check for black burn marks on the resistors and coil windings.
Does the regulator have 5 terminals or 4? Later Majors had 4.
Pavel