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New member

Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 6:34 pm
by Steveyb
Hi all, I'm Steve (STEVEYB,nothing to do with Steve b lol) and I've been helping my soon to be father in law with his super major. Head gasket failed, so we changed the liners, pistons, rings, gaskets etc etc, and now it won't start. It won't even turn over. We stripped it back down, and the con rod shells were knackered, but while turning the crank by hand, it gets to a really stiff point, where it's almost impossible to turn any further. Now before we got started on the engine, the tractor was used on an almost daily basis.

Any help, ideas, info would be greatly received!

Steveyb

Re: New member

Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 8:24 am
by Brian
If you have had the main bearing caps off check that you have them the right way round and that you have not muddled them up, No.2 and No 3 are the same but will not fit correctly in each others position due to the line boring of the block. You should have marked each cap before you removed it but check to see if someone else has.

I would suggest fitting each bearing, torquing down each as you fit them and seeing if the crank still turns before fitting the next. Same with fitting the big end bearings. Check all caps and bearings to make sure they are the right way round, locating notches in the shells go together and, when fitted, the numbers stamped on the rods and caps all are on the camshaft side facing the camshaft.

If you have the timing gears disconnected and are trying to turn the crank you may get to a spot where it stops with a bit of a "clunk". This is because No 3 con rod can strike the lift pump cam on the camshaft in certain positions if the cam shaft does not turn. If you try and force it you could break the camshaft.

If you have replaced the liners, make sure you have .002" to .004" protrusion of the liner above the block. This is measured by putting a straight edge on the edge of each liner and checking the gap with a feeler gauge between the straight edge and the block. Do not measure from the liner spigot.

Finally, if you have had the injection pump off it is possible to refit it 180 degrees out. Check that, with all the timing marks lined up, the clamp bolt on the Injection pump drive from the auxiliary shaft is underneath the shaft not over the top.

Re: New member

Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:32 pm
by Steveyb
Thanks for the info brian. None of the mains had been removed, and the timing hadn't been touched, but I passed on the info as I live 170-odd miles away from the tractor, and it seems it may of actually been a bit or dirt in the oil pump clogging it up, so thankfully we didn't start it up! The good thing is now it's almost a fully rebuilt engine! Next time I'm over there I will get some pictures of the old girl, I'm truly amazed it's still in use and as handy as it is! :beer: