The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I'm just wondering how long the engine has to be run after starting for the generator to put back in the battery what the starter motor took out. I appreciate that the engine speed after starting will be a factor.
I've recently bought a new battery and I'd like to keep it in good fettle for as long as possible. Recharging patterns are important, I believe.
Best, Adrian.
ps I had both the generator and starter motor refurbished when I rebuilt the engine, so I'm assuming they are operating as they should.

Fair question, Adrian; but like most things there are other factors to take into account -- how long the starter has to operate before the engine starts, and low temps using more amps than when the weather is warm. Also bear in mind that just standing off for a few days, or longer, will allow the battery to slightly lose voltage. For my own part, I run the tractor for about 15 minutes at a fast idle. However I prefer to drive it for that length of time as it also helps with transmission oil circulation.
You could check this out yourself by placing a volt meter across the battery terminals and look at the read-out. Before starting the reading should be about 12.6 plus volts. After starting the output of the charging system should initially be in the region of 13. 8 or 9 volts. As the battery re-charges the voltage will slowly drop to its pre-start level. The length of time this takes will give you a good indication of the answer to your query.

Pavel

Thanks, Pavel. The variables you list make sense, so I appreciate there is no way of giving a specific answer to my question. But, as a rule of thumb, you'd recommend running the tractor for at least 15 minutes at fast idle. I'll always try to do that. Given the same variables, how would it be with an alternator fitted? I'm not thinking of fitting one, but it would nice to know for the sake of comparison. I understand that an alternator has a faster charging rate. Am I right? And what are the pros and cons of fitting one?
Unfortunately I'm not geared up to test the electrics. I have no equipment and I'd really need a lesson in basic electrics before I felt confident of doing any work on the wiring. I have promised myself to sit down and study the subject soon. I'll be using your posts on the subject as a reference - I have seen how you have walked other members through their wiring issues.
Thanks again.
Best, Adrian.

My Major does have an alternator, Adrian; my suggestion is applicable to both these and dynamos. There are some advantages alternators have over dynamo/generator systems. As you have alluded; alternators generate higher voltages at idle and fast idle engine revs [even at idle speed, with headlights on, they are able to produce enough current (amps) so as not to deplete the battery]: when integrated with internal regulators, as most are, the wiring is a lot less complicated: even though though they rotate at about twice the speed of dynamos they have less problems with, say, the carbon brushes wearing out. For instance, my Peugeot car has traveled about 150,000 kilometers since I fitted a Bosch alternator to it -- and is still doing the job. And lastly, my cheap second hand Lucas alternator fitted to my Fordson, of some 35amp output, allows me to run 120watt bulbs in my headlamps and plough light, 29amps total, [legal here in Oz] whilst still keeping the battery charged.

I would here suggest that, with your learning curve ability for things mechanical, you now start thinking of how to identify, and solve, future electrical problems -- because they will occur.
Why not drop hints to your nearest and dearest that a Multi-meter tester [provided it can also measure at least 10amps] would make a very nice birthday/anniversary/Christmas[?] present. For car/lorry/tractor electrics they are indispensable -- as well as pretty cheap.

Pavel

Thanks for the encouragement, Pavel. I'm looking forward to delving into an area that I have always shied away from.
What do you think to this meter? Seems to have good feedback. Is it suitable for auto electrics?
Best, Adrian.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Proster-Digital ... multimeter

It will more than cover your needs for vehicle electrics. Web reviews give it a good write-up and the price makes it good value.

Pavel

Many thanks, Pavel. Just ordered it.
Best, Adrian.

Hi Adrian,

I bought something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-UT202A- ... 48743fc1a8, a clamp ampere meter. It shows the current running into/from the battery without the need to open the circuit. When the battery gets full you can see the current going near 0 ampere.

Peter

Hi Pavel,

Pavel wrote:allows me to run 120watt bulbs in my headlamps and plough light

no problems with heat with these bulbs? Here in Germany they are not allowed, only in sport events (rallye), but always was recommended to use them only when driving, not when standing still.

Peter

My old Multi Meter has the setting markings wore right off of it and it is still working. I have had it so long and have used it so much I have them memorized. Also good to have a simple Test Light in some instances. Like for checking a turn signal problem. Dandy Dave!

No problem with metal bodies and reflectors, Peter; but I'd be very wary of fitting high output bulbs in lamps having polycarbonate [plastic] reflectors.

Agreed, Dave. Probably the cheapest 'tester' going -- and much better for testing bulb sockets than having a heavy multi-meter dangling off the end of slender probe leads.

Pavel