The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I just purchused my first tractor. Its a 63 super major, I was doing some easy yard work with it and the hydraulic quit all of a sudden(3 pt and loader). Checked fluids and its was pretty dry in the diff, could I have killed the hydraulic pump by running it dry? I added 4.5 gallons of fluid but still no action from the hydraulics, given the level is still low. does the pump need to be primed. My tractor does not have a dip stick for the hydraulics, how low should it be from the top?

The dipstick is near the clutch pedal, perhaps you tought is was for the gearbox. or has someone stolen it and left you with the bare hole?
If it´s not lifting at all and the selector for the extra hydraulics is off, the it could be a stuck unloadingvalve.

The pump is under the oil so it does not need to be primed. You will need about 10 gallons in the rear axle through the filler at the back behind the seat. The dipstick is near the gear shift.

Things to check:

Does the PTO still drive? The pump is driven from the PTO so this has to be in gear. Flat lever near the clutch.

Do you hear the engine loading when the lift lever s right at the top?

Does your loader work from the tractor hydraulics or does it have a separate pump?

If it works from the tractor hydraulics. Push the selector button in and make sure the lift arms drop about 1". Then pull the button out and try the loader again.

Make sure your selector lever near the lift lever quadrant is in the up position.

Try moving the quadrant lever up beyond the top stop.

If none of this works, it is possible that you have had water in the system and the control valve has stuck. If so, this will mean that the lift will have to come off. This is not a bad job but the lift is heavy and you have to be careful not to damage the valve by setting the lift down on it. Get back to us again if it still does not work after the above.

Another simple possibility is that water has frozen in the intake filter in the bottom of the rear axle. This can be removed by going underneath and taking the four bolts out of the round plate on the bottom of the housing. Remove the drain plug and the oil first though as it will run up your sleeve and into your armpit if you don't.

Another thought. What oil did you put in? It should be the same as you use in your engine NOT a 90W. Fords changed the spec. in 1957.

Still can't find the dip stick, your saying it is next to the clutch. The only thing I see is the bung for the transmission(which has level stamps on the side).

Brian you said the that ford changed the spec in 1957, but my tractor is a 1963 FSM and it specs a API GL 1 which is a mineral based oil(SAE 80 or 90). The local New Holland dealer sold me something completly different but told me it was compatible( transimssion oil MAT3505).

Pto works fine. I do not have an external pump. Wheres the selector button?

Here's a picture of the dip stick on my Super 6. The one on your Super Major should be in the same place.



I'm not sure what kind of oil your dealer sold you, but 90W is too heavy to use as hydraulic oil in the winter here, and its quite a bit colder where you live.

I did not see the dip stick there, I'll check tomorrow when I got out to the Shark, if its that obvious I'll feel like the dipstick!!

What kind of weight do you recommend, I checked both my shop and owners manual for the weight. Brian wrote about the same oil as the engine, I'm running 15w40, is that correct weight for both?

By the way today warmed up -8 C and the hydraulics still wouldn't work.

What length is the dipstick? Whats the tolerance from the full to the low mark?

That's about the same temp. we had here last week. Its still cold enough for the water in the bottom of the case to turn into a block of ice. These old Majors seem to get quite a bit of water in there if they're parked outside.

I'll measure the dipstick tomorrow, unless Brian already knows how long it is.

Here's a (not very good) picture of the selector knob.

Ok I thought that was the flow regulator?!
Mines slightly different and is more like a toggle that turns from left to right but will stay at any position in between.
Also I have lever by right side when driving, slightly below my right thigh, What is it for?
How do I get that water out?

That is not the selector, that´s the lowering speed adjust, but I don´t have it on my 63. The selectot should be where the extra valves are on the picture.

If you go back through the posts on this page you will find one called "dipstick". It gives all the dimensions for a Major one which is the same one.

90W has not been the recommended oil for Fordson Majors and their later variations since 1957. Its in the service manuals! 90W oil will not pass through the ports and valves in a Super lift even when the temperature is high and certainly not when cold, here in England so it must be like pumping rocks over there.

The same goes for the Dexta. Engine oil, 20W/30W is what is asked for and in cold climates add a couple of gallons of kerosene. If you can get 10W/30W that is good for cold weather.

If your lift has frozen due to water, and if you do not have a dipstick this is the most likely cause of your problems, it could take a little while to thaw. A heated shed or garage would be the best place.

When thawed, remove the drain plug and see what comes out. If nothing comes out then the intake filter to the pump is still blocked. The drain plug lets the oil out from inside the filter so if oil is not getting there it won't be getting to the pump.

A picture of how your loader is plumbed in might help too. If you can't work out how to post it on here, e-mail it to me.

I knew something was wrong with that picture when I posted it. Sorry about that. I'll post pics when I'm awake, from now on

I can't find the dipstick topic that Brian was talking about, even though I've seen it before. Here some measurements of mine.

Thanks for the picture and measurements. My dipstick IS missing, I never noticed the small hole, it was covered by snow.

I found the root cause of the lack of oil in my rear axle, leaky rear wheel seal. Summer/ warm weather project!!

Hydraulics are still not working

yelbike wrote:Thanks for the picture and measurements. My dipstick IS missing, I never noticed the small hole, it was covered by snow.

I found the root cause of the lack of oil in my rear axle, leaky rear wheel seal. Summer/ warm weather project!!

Hydraulics are still not working

The rear wheel seals usually stop leaking oil when they get a bigger amount of grease in the nipples at the rear outer ends of axles.

Can someone help me out with what is circled in red, nothing happens when its moved.
Circle in black I quess is the flow regulator?!

Your red circled lever is the position/draft control lever. At the moment you are in draft control which is for implements working in the ground and connected to the top link. This is used for ploughs and cultivators where the implement exerts a force on the top link and this force is controled by the position of the main control lever. The load required to change the implement draft is more the further you put the control lever towards the bottom of the quadrant.

This is correct for working with your loader.

If you push the lever down you select Position Control. This is used for implements above the ground such as sprayers, fertilizer spreaders, mowers etc.

The lever in the black circle is the flow control for the spool valve you have fitted to work your loader.

Have you tried lowering the lift arms and seeing if your loader works, or taking the drain plug out and seeing if oil comes out?

As an aside, you have a Mk1 Super Major not a New Performance one if you need parts.

Thanks for the great info!
Here comes a stupid question !
When your said to lower the lift arms, you mean the three point?

Yes, within the lift, on the linkage, is a "knock off" pin that puts the lift into neutral when the arms are fully raised.

Yelbike,

Whilst it is a very good clear picture, I'm afraid it is a little too big for putting into a thread.
See my profile and send me an email so I can send you back a copy of your photo resized to replace the one above.
Regards,
Rick

Okay solved the dipstick issue, installed a new one which is measured and cut to size. Now I can see the condition of the oil, problem is its creamy in color with cristalize ice in it. How do I get the water out? Can the oil be drain and strained/filtered to seperate the water from the oil? How do I get the water thats stuck inside the final drive out?

The water/oil mix is difficult to get out without opening the top and the digging it out from the bottom. The best thing is to change to new oil from time to time. To get the old oil separated from the water is not so easy. It needs to be heated above 80 C at least to start the separation and then it takes a long time before it is normal. Ihave done some successful experiments with engineoil but I think that with rear axle oil it is more difficult

You will need to replace the oil. I would not even try to separate it out.

You do not have to strip out the rear axle. If you are going to go that far you need to remove both axle shafts as well so that is a no-no.

In an earlier post I told you about the intake filter at the base of the rear axle housing behind a plate that is held by four bolts. Drain the oil and take this plate off. Clean the filter and let as much gunge as possible drain out. Then replace this and the filter and put in two gallons of clean 30W oil followed by 5 gallons of kerosene. Run the tractor around for 1/2 to 3/4 hour with this mixture then drain it out. You should remove the filter and plate again as any gunge will find its way to the filter.

Then refill with 30W oil.

This was the method that was recommended by Ford Motor Company to dealers who had to clean rear axle housings in the field. Do not use diesel, it has to be kerosene though.

Hi yelbike,
Did you find a way to warm the tractor up? Unless the temp. stays above freezing for a few days, you probably won't have much luck getting the oil and ice out.
When I used to work in the woods (logging) in the winter, we would build a big fire, and let it burn down to hot coals, then drive or drag the frozen piece of equipment over the coals and let it thaw. This doesn't work too well if you have oil or fuel leaks

Hey JC,
I've heard of people doing that with the coals. I thinks its to cold for even that right now, we'll be down near -40 degrees tonight! Doesn't matter if you like Fahrenheit or Celcius at this temperature they both agree that its to damn cold!! . When I find a warm place for tractor and me, I'll just flush out the oil and put in new diesel engine oil.

Brrrrr. -40 is -40 in F or C. The best thing to do is stay indoors by the fire, unless you feel the urge to haul something on an ice road . -15F is about as cold as it gets here, but about 50 miles to the east, it gets considerably colder. California isn't all sun, sand, and bikinis, like a lot of people think
Stay warm and let us know what happens with your tractor.