Hand Brake Adjustment

[WightMajor]

Hi
I have just fitted new handbrake plates and adjusted the end nut to the measurement in the book, but the hand brake is only starting to come on on the last ratchet on the lever is their any way to adjust as I have taken the side plate off and turned the nut a couple of turns, but looking at the Assembly and adjusting the end nut will not have any effect.

[Stu_Fletch]

Yeah I've just done mine the distance for setting it up is critical as stated in the service manual although tricky to manage to measure accurately, to take out freeplay you will have to loosen the nut, I had my gearbox out when I set it all up last Friday and the 13.8 inches from memory distance is measured from the rear of the front gearbox face where it seals against the bell housing casting I can post some pics tomorrow night for you if that helps.

Cheers

[WightMajor]

Hi

I am trying to understand what effect moving the nut will do as the shaft it is attached too is floating so if I tight the nut the area the handbrake cam touches is moving away from it and If i loosen the nut to get it closer to the cam when it operates it needs to move more until it starts to engage, I hope this makes sense, do I need another plate to pack out the handbrake, as the new plates I have got could they be made undersized in thickness.

Regards

Ian

[Stu_Fletch]

No I wouldn't of thought so I bought new ones for mine and they were the same thickness... You need to undo the nut to remove the slack as the cam pushes in the nut which engages the brake though the spring.
Cheers

[WightMajor]

Hi
Did you have the same problem or did it work first time.

Ian

[Stu_Fletch]

Mine worked well although I did have a little trouble with the new handbrake lever not fitting but the setting up the nut is a bit tricky... I can upload some pictures if you want... did you take your gearbox out to do it? Ive just ran mine up today and the bush i have made and fitted into the reverse gear has picked up and ceized so it's all got to come back out again

Cheers

[WightMajor]

Had to do a complete strip down as got the tractor in an auction got it going but when driven had a rattling notice so strip it down and found the large nut in the primary gearbox was loose and handbrake completely mangled, but it sounds ok now when driven, just got fix the brakes as locks one wheel when used,

[Stu_Fletch]

Yeah mine did that I found one of the linings half sheared off so as soon as you touched the pedal it locked up. Which nut was that the one on the belt drive pulley... if so how much did you tighten it? i couldn't find a spec in the manual so I just gave it plenty and locked it off... it was loose when I stripped it dow.

Cheers

[WightMajor]

I have not got a pulley (on the list), but I think the nut retained the gear it engaged to if fitted, previous owner had tried to tight with a Chesil, had to find another nut and tab washer, as you said tight as much as we could get then tab over, washer I will keep you posted on handbrake when I get time to have another go.

Regards

Ian

[Stu_Fletch]

If you want I can measure the distance between the cam and the nut on mine before I strip it all back down again, with a bit of patience I would of thought you can adjust it whilst it's all together through the selector cover.

Cheers

[WightMajor]

If you could that would great also if possible can you measure the length of the cone spring as if mine has compressed it could be the problem.

regards

Ian

[thestig246]

this post has been very insightfull! I have had the same problem i fitted new plates and the handbrake doesnt work! Which manual do you guys have as i couldnt find anything about that in mine? so it was a case of suck it and see, it works just... i dont think id park it up Everest though

dan

[paudie]

I repaired my primary gearbox handbrake a few months back, I did it with the gearbox out , I believe it. Would be close to impossible to do it correctly while still in the tractor, the coil spring has probably been too compressed over time or it sounds to me ( I'm no expert ) that the shim / spacer which should be fitted behind the reverse idle gear may have disintegrated, can u check this while its in the tractor ? If u have used new discs and spacers and u have fitted them in the correct order starting from behind the reverse idle gear going back to the adjustment nut and used the correct measurement it should work . I used 2nd hand discs and shims and the hand brake engages maybe a bit too soon on the first two teeth .im not sure if any of this is of any use . Best of luck
Paudie

[easy.start]

Does anyone know if the transmission brake can be adjusted to relieve suspected binding of the plates without removing the gearbox? My gearbox casing gets incredibly hot after several miles of driving and the handbrake lever shaft that passes through the casing is leaking which I assume is due to the heat

[Brian]

If your handbrake is binding I would suspect warped plates especially if you have not repaired it. I am afraid it is gearbox out and it needs to be done quickly as it can terminally damage the inner gearbox housing.

Make sure the handbrake lever is going right off. On all new tractors we used to remove the brake ratchet and grind off the first four teeth so that the lever was free to move fully forward.

[easy.start]

I had a feeling gearbox out is the only option! I'm guessing (hoping) that nothing terminal has happened yet as the tractor can be pushed by hand forward and back and all gears can be selected. Presumably the plates become warped due to the friction and heat that's been generated? A labour of love

[Brian]

If you can push the tractor fairly easily it may not be the handbrake that is your problem. Have you thought about clutch slip?

[easy.start]

This is what I found when the selector plate was removed. I haven't any idea when the gearbox was last looked into so am assuming the metal flake is due to years of gears grinding. There are no large pieces of metal.

Having visually checked the gears/bearings all looks OK but the brake plates are gummed together. This is with the handbrake released.

This photo is of the brake plates. Some are free from their neighbours whilst the others appear to be warped and are stuck together. Having inserted a screwdriver between them I can confirm they're stuck tight (handbrake lever released).

[Brian]

OK it is back to square one then, gearbox out. I would not drive too far with the plates like that.

[easy.start]

Afternoon all,

I have just had time to fit the new plates (7 & 5) required for the transmission handbrake and have adjusted the end nut as specified (and also having measured distance prior to disassembly).

I'd just like confirmation that it is normal for there to be a far bit of movement on the shaft by these plates Obviously I understand we don't want them so 'snug' they're binding but I don't think this 'play' could be taken up by any adjustment anyway.

If anyone could offer their thoughts and expertise prior to me heaving all in the tractor I'd appreciate it

[Brian]

Just looking at your picture again and it seems to show all the internal splined plates at one end and the external plates that fit onto the dowels at the other.
There should be seven stationary and five rotating plates fitted:

One stationary next to the gearbox housing,

Reverse idler gear,

One stationary plate,

First of the revolving plates,

Stationary,

Revolving,

Stationary,

Revolving,

Stationary,

Revolving

Stationary,

Revolving,

Stationary,

and finally shaft, small coil spring, end plate with square hole, large spring and nut. End of nut 13.870" to 13.895" (352.3 to 352.9 mm)from rear face of housing.

If this all is correct then your play should be right.

Sorry if teaching granny to suck eggs again.

[easy.start]

I don't mind sucking eggs It's always better to have a second, experienced opinion before stitching the patient up! I can now pop everything back in the old girl in confidence