Refitting PM sump

[Daves rusty bits]

Any advice on refitting my PM sump welcome. I took it off to do the liners and now its the one thing that has me stumped
To take it off I blocked it up with wooden blocks with a few thin ones at the top and after the bolts were out just took out the blocks one at a time and the sump dropped down easily.
I`ve spent a day trying to put it back on and it seems to foul on the front plate and flywheel every time. It almost dropped off so I`m reluctant to use too much force putting it back it ought to be fairly easy, is there a knack to it? Thanks Dave

[Brian]

It does not go straight back up, you have to angle it down at the back slightly. Watch the gaskets when you do put it up.

I used to use a large open ended spanner and push it over the sump and block flanges to hold it up whilst I got a couple of bolts in. I have done it many times on my own but not for the last 15 years!

[Daves rusty bits]

Thanks Brian, will try again on my next day off. I think you hit the nail on the head with your last sentence, I`m the wrong side of 62 now and I find things like sumps and rear wheels are much heavier than they used to be, probably due to increased gravity, I also notice its harder to get out from under the tractor and stand up these days!! Dave

[oehrick]

Know what you mean Dave, my car is gradually getting closer to the ground, based on how many packing blocks I need once its jacked up so I can do the backwards crawl underneath. Strangely this seems to be the reverse of the Major's footstep when I'm on and off numerous times hooking up and snigging timber.

I suspect it may have something to do with my height, I've kept a close watch on the doctors chart over the years and for my weight, my height now should be 14' 9" - do they ever mention my needing to gain height ?? Nope

[paudie]

Have u tried two jacks front and rear and raise the sump dead level? Or maybe loosen the 3 bolts on either side of the channel iron chaises which in turn might allow 1/2mm of flex to the front timing gear cover ? These are only a guess / suggestions notting based on fact.best of luck
Paudie

[paudie]

Have u tried two jacks front and rear and raise the sump dead level? Or maybe loosen the 3 bolts on either side of the channel iron chaises which in turn might allow 1/2mm of flex to the front timing gear cover ? These are only a guess / suggestions notting based on fact.best of luck
Paudie

[Brian]

The sump will not lift straight up because of the shape of the rear seal. With the front plate still fitted it has to be angled to get it around the flywheel. If you have the front plate off it goes straight up.

If you work on the engine with the front axle still in place but with the track rod and wishbone removed it is much safer but can be a bit of a pain to get the sump on and off. We used to change liners and shimmed up dropped ones like this rather than take the engine out.

[Daves rusty bits]

Success ! I did get the sump back on but it was real fiddly doing it on my own and keeping the gaskets and seals intact but I got there in the end. I fitted new liners and seals as well as new pistons and big end shells by doing as Brian suggested, taking the wishbone and steering arm off and dropping the sump. I found one cracked liner and a broken piston ring.
It was great to start the major up and have it running again smoke free and no oil drips! Thanks for all the advice and tips, I spent some time reading previous posts and finally got the confidence to do the job never having done anything like it before.
Pictures to come, need to get one of the kids to get the camera and computer talking to each other, now that did defeat me all the best Dave