Sleeves
Sleeves
I'm about to undertake an overhaul on my "new" FMD. Bought her at an auction, cheap. Some oil in radiator, pulled the head & found a crack on the top of the #4 sleeve, plus both pushrods in #4 bent. My question is, how tight are sleeves in the FMD? I just spent 4 days building a puller ( several times, each time beefier than last) to pull the dry sleeves out of a Farmall H. Is there tricks I should know about the FMD sleeves? Thanks!
Here is a picture of my sleeve puller if it helps You.
And on this picture the puller is reversed to pull in the new sleeves.
Inspect carefylly the grooves for the lower sleeve seals with a mirror. It can have deep corroded spots that allows the water to pass by to the olipan. It is one of the most typical problems with Majors.
And on this picture the puller is reversed to pull in the new sleeves.
Inspect carefylly the grooves for the lower sleeve seals with a mirror. It can have deep corroded spots that allows the water to pass by to the olipan. It is one of the most typical problems with Majors.
Last edited by Grani on Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
My sleeve puller is exactly the same as Grani's but they have one disadvantage. You really need to remove the crank to get the puller disc in place. Also make sure that there is enough clearance to allow it to pass through the block.
The side legs should not be screwed into the cylinder head retaining stud holes though, as shown in Grani's picture. This can damage the threads if the sleeve is tight. It is best to make a foot on the stud that spreads the load over a greater area.
The side legs should not be screwed into the cylinder head retaining stud holes though, as shown in Grani's picture. This can damage the threads if the sleeve is tight. It is best to make a foot on the stud that spreads the load over a greater area.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
I use chemical metal (a Plastic Padding product) and put tar on afterwards to prevent further corrosion.JC wrote:Grani,
Brian has said that he repairs corroded o-ring grooves with Belzona molecular metal. How did you fix yours?
Here is a link to a Swedish forum where I have put my own story of my boat engine repair. All is written in Swedish but the pictures looks the same.
http://fordson.se/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5197
Mine don´t need crank removed. Yes thats true that the treads is in danger if the sleeves are tight but mine came out quiet easy.Brian wrote:My sleeve puller is exactly the same as Grani's but they have one disadvantage. You really need to remove the crank to get the puller disc in place. Also make sure that there is enough clearance to allow it to pass through the block.
The side legs should not be screwed into the cylinder head retaining stud holes though, as shown in Grani's picture. This can damage the threads if the sleeve is tight. It is best to make a foot on the stud that spreads the load over a greater area.
Last edited by Grani on Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
