The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Evening all,

I have just come by another old Fordson to work on. This time a Power Major.
I was told it had a miss when running, but before I tried it, I checked the air filter, & it was full of mud and ice. no real oil in there at all.
Anyway, with that all cleaned out and new oil, I started her up and it ran smoothly, no missing.

Has a few problems;
The hydraulic lift lever is frozen up, (for the 3 pt hitch) Any ideas on freeing it up? Gave it a good bit of WD-40 and let it sit.
Also, the high/low shift doesn't shift. It's in the low box. Likely simple, but may need the tank and steering box off to see what's fallen off.
Steering is light and easy!
Needs a new cowl/front end. all that part is homemade.
At present, the PTO clutch is stuck or not working. I think Brian once said put them to work with something like a brush mower, to "unstick" them. Is this correct?

For Alberta, Canada, what oil (engine) is best for winter? Just got filters, a thermostat, (wasn't one) and an in-line water heater today. (bottom rad hose type)
Poor old sod, it wants to please but has had a hard life. Having said that, when I pulled the dipstick with the engine running, there is more or less no sump pressure, certainly not blowing anything out!
It needs the proper seat as well, as it's got a great high spring-loaded thing on it at present, & my feet won't reach the floorboards, & I'm not a jockey.

Any help most appreciated!

I am pleased to see the site up & running again! Was worried for a while.

Sounds like you have a bit of a project>

You might be best to remove the hydraulic lever/valve chest and work on it in a nice warm workshop. Be careful not to damage the surfaces of the valves as you work on them as this will cause the lift to drop. Put a new piston seal on at the same time. ( See Wiki for pictures of the hydraulic system stripped down).

It may be a good idea to remove the pulley plate or pulley before delving too deep into the gearbox to sort the stuck High/Low. On the live gearbox a lock tab on the pulley drive would sometimes break and allow the nut to work off and jam the selector.

Yes the topper on the PTO works well especially if run at low revs so that it bangs a bit with the clutch down. If that does not work then run her for a while in work being careful not to get into a position that needs you to stop the PTO with the clutch.

Thank you for the fast reply, Brian.

Also, thank you for your answers and thoughts on this!
I'll do as you suggest re. the hydraulics.
Very good to know that removing the pulley might reveal something. I never would have thought of that!

Soon as I get this part sorted, I'll try the topper and see what it does. I well understand re. your advice about not running something where it may require the PTO to work.....like a rotovator.
Would you recommend 20-50 engine oil for over here?

Trust all is well down there, Brian. Very pleased you are still doing such good service for the old tractors.
I've always liked these tractors, ever since I drove my dads as a bairn in Yorkshire in the V. late 50's.
The Super I have is the best tractor I've ever had for driving my ancient JD brush mower.

Brian,
Had a look at WIKI, and is the Power Major close to the same in workings as Henrietta? Couldn't see anything specific to PM's.
R.

Richard.

The Power Major Hydraulics is exactly the same as Henrietta. You may find you need a piston seal made as it is an odd size, that is if you cannot get a replacement.

20/50 oil might be a bit heavy for your low temperatures, it works perfectly here in Norfolk though. Shell Rotella 15/40 seems to be the oil of choice with my US contacts.

I did use a semi synthetic 15/40 in all my tractors but suffered from low oil pressure and oil leaks, changed to Morris's 20/50 straight diesel engine oil and the pressures came back up and the oil leaks disappeared.

Thank you for the reply again, Brian!

Glad the hydraulics are the simple ones.
Thermostat I got opens at 190, but I think that'll be Ok.
I'll see if I can find the 15/40 you recommend. I do use 15/40 in my newer tractors already.

Torn a ligament in me shoulder...muscle in upper arm is not where it should be! have to go see Doc. about that I suppose.

Richard.

Ligament still needs re-attaching. not even a date yet for an U/Sound on it!

Fitted a lower rad hose heater, new bottom hose, coolant, and when warm fired her up, and ran her a good while then changed oil & filter.
When warm, she seems to run with about 4o lbs of oil pressure.
That was the easy bit!
Oil from gearbox running out the timing cover hole....Not got at hydraulics yet. Did pull that great ungainly seat off it though. This might take me some time. been a bit cold here. (-15C at night and a bit warmer through the day. Not bad, but not best either.)

Bad form, three posts in a row, but I have another question;
Removed the spool valve in an attempt to get the arms to drop, prior to taking off the valve chest to clean out.
With said valve removed, (was completely gummed in) the arms still won't drop. I put PTO in gear & it oozed oil from valve port, but still no arms drop.
Am I missing something ?? Gone blond maybe?
I can lift the arms up a short way, but they go down solid like they are hitting something very solid. won't drop like they should.

Any help most appreciated!
Richard.

If you have the valve chest off then you should see the piston and sleeve.Your piston could be rusted into the sleeve. These should just pull out and all you have left in the lift is the connecting rod. If the lift arms still will not go down you have a seized cross shaft.

Try loosening the bolts on either side which hold the arms onto the shaft. Someone might have overtightened them.

Brian,

I haven't removed the valve chest yet, as you said it would be a mucky job if you did it with the arms raised.
I only removed the spool valve thinking that might help.
The arms are not tight, overtightened or anything, as the do lift up and down a little way, but just go solid and won't drop.
I'll remove the valve chest and see if the piston is seized in place. it's standing outside so if things get messy at least it's not on my floor!

Thanks for answering!

Will keep you posted.
Richard.

Update;

Removed valve chest.
Yep!............mucky job with arms raised!
Piston was glued into the cylinder, but raising the arms the bit they would by hand, and letting them drop punched out the piston and cylinder.
After a bit of heat and penetrating oil, the piston pounded out allright and the neoprene seal seems good.
Polished up the cylinder inside and de-rusted the outside, and cleaned up piston. It slides back and forth smoothly now.
Now to clean up that gummy valve chest. the oil is literally like rubber in there!

Question;
Can a new hydraulic filter be fitted by taking the casting off underneath where the drain plug is??.............Or, do I have to remove the top altogether to get at it?
Looks like the top would be lighter than on the FSM. Two of us, and that one Still seemed heavy!

Also;
When I get there, Does the oil seal for the front of the gearbox go in from Inside of gearbox or outboard end?
Slow progress as other stuff needs doing...

Thanks in advance,
Richard.

Yes, the filter comes out of the bottom, it is a metal screen and will wash off in kerosene. If you think the valve chest is bad wait until you are laying underneath with that oil running up your arm to your arm pit. BTDT.

Just in front of the filter are two bolts. They are magnetic and pick up any (some) of the metal particles in the oil. Give them a clean too.

Might be a good idea to use the Ford method of rear axle cleaning before you fill up with clean oil. Mix 1 gal. of oil with 2 gal. Kerosene, (Definitely not Diesel) and run around in the yard for 1/2 to 1 hour with no load. Then drain and fill with clean oil. This works for the gear boxtoo.

Oil seal on the input shaft is straight forward, split the tractor, take off the thrust bearing and remove the cross shaft. Unbolt and remove the seal housing and replace seal. On a "Live Clutch" you also have a narrow seal between the two shafts that will need replacing.

Lovely to get nice clear instructions Brian!
I was thinking it may have the filter the same as the FSM.
Oil up me sleeves is still better than welding sparks I think. Minst, welding sparks and oil at same time might be bad!

It could do with the paraffin/oil wash out, as the oil must be filthy. Doesn't Look bad, but you would really think they'd used boiled linseed. It's as sticky as that.
Good to hear the oil seal is a straight-forward job.
Cross shaft leaking a bit both sides so a grand time to sort that as well.

Thanks again Brian.
If you were a pretty girl I'd kiss you! (as it is, I won't!)

You changed your aftershave Brian ??

I see Agriline has the piston seal (For hydraulics ) so if I Do need one I'll get it with some other small parts from them. They ship fast to Canada.

Brian,
When I fill the back end with oil/paraffin, to flush it out, Do I engage the PTO, or just drive about without for a half hour to hour?


Many thanks,
R.

Just drive around, you could run the PTO for a short while to flush the hydraulics but not for too long.

Will do, and thank you sir!

Measure your seal carefully before you order one. The Major/Power Major is not a standard seal size and some after market parts companies supply the later seal which does not fit correctly. That is why I had mine made by a seal company. They measured it up and made sure it was a correct fit on the piston and cylinder.

Thanks for that advise Brian.

I'll measure this one up and see how it compares.

Can't see much wrong with this one actually, no deep scores and no cracks /splits or anything.

I know I need one for a FSM, but that one doesn't appear as easy to get at!

Richard.

Hey Richard

I know I joked about the Lancashire valleys but I hope you nor any other Fordson Pages folk from Lancs or Yorks are in dire need of big centrifugal pumps on your tractors tonight, flooding looked pretty extensive on the TV news tonight and knowing several mill towns fairly well from my Mill Engine hunting days, with the numerous goyts, lodges becks and canals apart from the regular rivers it must be a nightmare during the day and hell after dark - hope you are all safe and premises undamaged.

Not such a happy christmas for some

Rick,

I'm OK over here. cold but OK. was -24C last night.

Have a pal in Boroughbridge, and he will likely be telling me what's going on in the next day or so.

Best wishes to all over the Christmas season!

Richard.

Valve chest;

Took all the plugs and plates off the valve chest, but only one valve came out. all the others are glued in with gunk.

The "oil" is thick and rubbery, and twangs back and forth like silicone! I have never seen stuff like it, it's just like dried linseed oil.

Question;
What best to soak it in to get this crap out of the works, so I can get the valves out??
Some small valves or whatever seem to be threaded with a fine BA thread or something, Is this to pull them out?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Richard.
I will look at Brian's thread on Henrietta's valve chest when I get back in.....

Wow,Richard, that is quite a sticky mess you have there. What if you were to point a heat gun at it, can you get it to run at all? If you can, maybe you could rinse it out with some brake cleaner or carb cleaner.

I want to see you get this corrected and on to that range selector. I have a FPM in the shop that is stuck in high range!! Great tip on pulling the belt pulley, Brian.

Cheers - SR

SR,
Thanks for the reply!

I tried spraying some other parts with brake cleaner, and with ether, and it won't touch it!

Been thinking. (Yep, it hurt) I think I'll drop it in caustic soda. The caustic will not hurt metal, but digests all organic material.
I've used it on all sorts of baked on stuff, and it does work.
I do have the valves out now, and all but one of the little plugs.

Will keep you posted on doings. Not got at this project for a while, but hopefully I can get a crack at it now.

Best,
Richard.

Have you ever tried a product called Castrol Super Clean? It is caustic, contains sodium hydroxide, but is easy on ferrous metals. I have used it on really grimy tractors that I was not concerned about the paint finish before, followed up by high pressure washing with hot water. It takes a couple of attempts, but gets things clean.

HTH - SR

WARNING

You may find caustic soda affects some aluminium alloys, esp if critical bore or surface finish

Quickish dip to degrease probably OK but don't boil or leave it to stew